LQ 3/8 line conversion (How to increase flow)

Jump to latest Follow Reply
At the concentrations seen in this application either will work well. The biggest effect to longivity will be sunlight degradation. USPlastic has Tygon® UV Resistant Tubing R-3400 that would be best, but it's a bit higher than either of the ones you mentioned.
 
Question about the upgrade: I was wondering if you cut off the smaller "nozzle" portion of the inlet and outlet float screw mounts. The threads fit the 1/4" to 3/8" adapter just fine, but I was wondering if the small outlet size is restricting and if it should be cut off back to the threads.

Thanks.

-Chris
 
I cut mine off but it's not really needed. The float bulkhead fitting is bored the same size all the way through so it really doesn't matter. You'll be surprised how much more flow you can get through it once you do the upgrade.
 
Just fired up the pool and LQ last night. The upgrade makes a HUGE difference. Im getting 3 on the flow meter with the flow valve barely open!

I did notice, however, that my LQ "drains down" after the pump is shut off. it may have always been this way and I just didnt pay attention, or it may be worse now that the larger tubing allows so much more flow.

My LQ is actually above the level of my equipment, so Im guessing its just gravity doing its thing. I didnt order the check valves, as I had removed them when I used the LQ before the high flow mod. Now the question is, where do I install check valve(s)? Im not sure putting it on the inlet would prevent the outlet from draining down....would it? And I see the recommended check valves from US plastics have a .3 psi crack pressure.....would gravity forcing water out of the LQ provide greater than .3 psi? That would cause the check valve on the outlet side to open and basically render it useless.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

-Chris
 
It depends on which port it's draining from. If it's draining out the outlet side there's not much you can do about it and I really wouldn't worry about it too much. It's just going to drain down till the outlet float valve seals off. If it's draining back out the inlet side then a check valve will stop that. One thing you should check is that the float valves are sealing off completely. If they're not you could suck air into your system.
 
yeah it looked like it was draining out the outlet side. When the pump was off the flow meter still showed some flow. I pulled the hose off the inlet of the flow meter and sure enough there was water draining out. I turned the flow valve off just in case....this morning I opened the flow valve back up and fired up the pump and everything worked as it should. I do remember, though, that the float itself wasnt close to "floating" on the surface of the water in the LQ, so I didnt expect it to seal.

Interesting you mention the float valves possibly not sealing...I did nick the outlet opening of one of the valves when I was modding it for higher flow. I smoothed the nick out by hand and it looked like the valve would operate just fine but now Im questioning it. I forget which float valve got nicked.
 
Since my liquidator is below the water level I installed the check valve on the outlet line so that it wouldn't overflow the LQ when the pump was off. I don't have a check valve on the inlet line as I don't have to worry about it syphoning back out of it. I didn't drill the holes in my float valves because if you look at the open area of the nozzle there's already more open area around the flapper than the size of the nozzle.
 
I seem to be getting a little air from somewhere...I can see bubbles entering the flow meter. I dont *think* I see them exiting the LQ itself, so Im guessing air is getting in where the hose connects to the inlet and outlet of the flow control valve. I will add some clamps this weekend.

Incidentally the water on top of the chlorine bed is cloudy in my LQ. I dont remember that ever happening before, or I just never really paid attention. Could also be the cloudy water in the pool itself (opened too late with a mesh safety cover = cloudy water and green bottom and walls)
 
This was a great recommendation! The wifey let me get a 8 gallon liquidator and I went ahead and did the 3/8 upgrade. Wow...you open that valve up and it does flow! I have to get it to where I have the right flow set. Had it at 3 and while the pump ran, kept a constant 9ppm all day. Have to back that down a bit. Used 6% bleach from Wally world. The slight issue I have is that the tubing I have seems to have "collapsed" a bit because of the pump suction. Doesn't seem to hurt the flow any but I suppose it bothers me. Anyone else having this same problem?

As for tying the tubing into the piping I went with the approach some of you have - drilled a 7/16" hole and tapped it out with a 1/4-18 NPT tap. Used the "L" adapters wrapped in Teflon tape and no leaks.

My equipment pad is above the water level about a foot and I have the one check valve installed inline and no loss of prime.

Best thing I think I have done for this pool - constant and level chlorine and with my work travel schedule I know the pool will be sanitized while I am gone.

If you are going to do the Liquidator, I highly recommend this upgrade!
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Hey Big Thunder,
I had the same issue after the upgrade with clear tubing that I purchased from HD, I was getting a cut off of flow, so I went to Lowes and bought some yellow 3/8" I.D. hose that is used for pressure washers, I realy could'nt justify spending the $50 for the tygon tubing and this tubing is working great. My system also drains down when the pump is off, due to the LQ rubber stop on the outlet leaking, I think this is a common problem but I dont know what we are all going to do when needing replacement parts for the LQ, their customer service is very poor and not helpful.
TRW
 
The suction tubing between the flow valve and the pump suction does collapse some but it doesn't affect the flow out of the LQ so I haven't worried about it. I figured that I'd buy vacuum or heavy walled tubing when I had to replace the current tubing. I bought cheap polyethylene tubing so I figure I'll have to replace it in a couple of years.
 
TRW said:
their customer service is very poor and not helpful.
TRW
Click to expand...

I spoke to HASA last week, and they admitted to me that they have little interest in the LQ aside from it being a vehicle for them to sell more chlorine. I have left several messages for them as well, and have had none returned. It is understandable why it is not as well known or used as it could be, which is sad, as it is a great unit (and even better once opened up!).
 
chrisexv6 said:
I seem to be getting a little air from somewhere...I can see bubbles entering the flow meter. I dont *think* I see them exiting the LQ itself, so Im guessing air is getting in where the hose connects to the inlet and outlet of the flow control valve. I will add some clamps this weekend.

Incidentally the water on top of the chlorine bed is cloudy in my LQ. I dont remember that ever happening before, or I just never really paid attention. Could also be the cloudy water in the pool itself (opened too late with a mesh safety cover = cloudy water and green bottom and walls)
Click to expand...

The air is coming from somewhere between the float valve to the flowmeter. Try running water over the connections to see if the air stops. This will help you locate your leak. I usually get some air entering by the inlet to the flowmeter.
 
I found I get some air exiting from the flow valve. I don't know why, but on the exit from the valve, there are small air bubbles (not much, but enough so after some time it builds up in the tube). As a result, I was getting air in the flow meter, so my solution was to put the valve downstream of the flow meter, just before the pump basket drain, and now the whole tube assembly from the LQ to the flow valve is "air" free.

My only guess is that the low pressure from the pump is causing some cavitation from the restricted flow in the valve. I've checked everything else, and all fittings are good with lots of teflon tape.
 
simicrintz said:
TRW said:
their customer service is very poor and not helpful.
TRW
Click to expand...

I spoke to HASA last week, and they admitted to me that they have little interest in the LQ aside from it being a vehicle for them to sell more chlorine. I have left several messages for them as well, and have had none returned. It is understandable why it is not as well known or used as it could be, which is sad, as it is a great unit (and even better once opened up!).
Click to expand...

I'm truly amazed at HASA's apparant lack of interest in the LQ, but it appears as though you are correct due to the fact that they have not upgraded the product themselves. I've also emailed them but no reply, now I know why. The Pool industry is huge in Europe and something like this would go down a storm which is why I need to get my hands on some of these. Liquid chlorine is little used here but is so widely available. You can go into any pool store and buy 15 - 20 litres of 16% chlorine for about €12. But most people use blocks which contain 90% chlorine and wonder why there pipe work gets eaten alive..
 
Hasa is a chlor-alkali producer and not an equipment manufacturer that's why they don't push the LQ. I think they're missing a big market but they obviously don't care what I think.

The float valves are the hardest part to find over here. There are lots of float valves but the orifice is either to small or the price per unit is prohibitive. The flow meter is the next hardest thing to find. Everything else is readily available even the tanks aren't too hard to find.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply