OK, I'm going to add Borates but have a couple of questions

[martinspool]

I'm going to use the Grocery store Borax/acid method as explained here:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/4655-So-you-want-to-add-borates-to-your-pool-Why-and-How

I have 2 questions:
1) I have a cartridge filter - Jandy Cartridge Filter CV340. Would it be better for me to remove the cartridges during this process so they don't get clogged up with the borax powder and then re-install after say 48hrs or so?

2) On the testing part….the above link says to be sure to get some some testing strips. I'm currently using the TF-100 test kit so does Leslies pools, Warehouse Pools or some other local pool supply carry the appropriate strips? What is the name of the reliable strips I'm looking for? Or is there a better way to test for borates?

3) And…for a 10k SWG pool I'm still looking for 50ppm in borate testing…right?

thx

 

[JasonLion]

1) Not worth the trouble, borax dissolves quickly in moving water.
2) Lamotte Borate test strips, TFTestKits.net has them, as do many other Internet vendors.
3) You want the level to be 30 to 50. For initial addition, aim for 50, as it will tend to drift down over the season.

 

[Casey]

I just added borates and dumped directly into the pool over the return and then brushed the pool after each addition. There is no reason to take your cart filter out. And as Jason said, you can buy the strips at TFtestkits.net.

 

[Madison Mike]

Why don't you just add boric acid to the pool instead of the mule+muriatic? Just buy one chemical, add as needed, and done. Pool math will tell you how much.

 

[PharmerAnthony]

Why don't you just add boric acid to the pool instead of the mule+muriatic? Just buy one chemical, add as needed, and done. Pool math will tell you how much.

I believe the answer to that is it is much cheaper.

 

[JasonLion]

Borax plus acid is generally just a bit less expensive than boric acid, and once in a while costs more.

 

[martinspool]

Ok I added Borates to the pool 5 days ago accordingly to the outline above and my numbers are:
FC - 6.0
pH - 7.5
TA - 80
CH - 375
CYA - 70
Borates - 80 (very light on the test strip)

Will high these Borate levels hurt the pool?

And I just tested my salt content for the 1st time with Aquacheck salt strips and they measure 1225. My SWG control panel says 3700. I just hate testing with strips. Don't know what to believe.

 

[JasonLion]

80 is alright, though that is as high as you should ever go.

 

[martinspool]

80 is alright, though that is as high as you should ever go.

What are the ramifications of to high Borates?

 

[JasonLion]

Borates have some minor negative impact on the environment and they are also poisonous at far higher levels. Higher levels don't help the pool at all, but aggravate the environmental issues. Higher levels also cut into the (extremely generous) safety margin for health side effect.

 

[martinspool]

Well I did dilute pool water some and got Borates down to 60. From this point forward I'll just let the pool simmer down the rest of the way through summer adding water and so on.

Some advice to anyone that's considering adding Borates. I'm really glad I did. The water feels incredible. To me it feels like water out of water softener or something and yes it does make the water sparkle more. BUT….using the link at the beginning of this post and when you calculate what you think you need, add 1/2 that amount first, run pump for 48hrs. and then test. I calculated what I needed. 8 boxes of Borax from Walmart @ 3.47/box. 2.5 gal. MA from Home Depot…I think $7.00. The total bill for everything was $56.00. So I added all that in the two doses as outlined, ran pump for 2 days and got Borate numbers of 80ppm. So, it's kinda like baking…you can always add ingredients, but you can't take out. It turned out that was to much Borax so I ended up diluting the pool to get to 60ppm now. So try 1/2 of what you think you need first, test after 48hrs. and go from there.

The end result is well worth it in my mind.