Thanks I will check Target, closer than Home Depot!!Beens said:Just poking in here for a bleach comment... I see you're buying it at Home Depot... and clorox brand at that... Price wise you can probably find cheaper 8.25% looking in walmart (great value brand) or better yet, if you have a Target nearby and they're running the same sale as they are in my area, you can get it at $2.99 for the 121oz AND it's buy 3 get one free. Makes it $2.24 per bottle. It is "Up and Up" brand which is Target's store brand.
Just trying to save you some money!
Need to raise ch and slam
- Thread starter dkbrat
- Start date
Jeetyet
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There is a Bleach Prices -2013 thread here you may want to bookmark and keep a check on.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/bleach-prices-2013-t58266-320.html
And another thread that might interest you...
http://www.troublefreepool.com/best-price-on-10-liquid-chlorine-in-dfw-area-t29442-40.html
http://www.troublefreepool.com/bleach-prices-2013-t58266-320.html
And another thread that might interest you...
http://www.troublefreepool.com/best-price-on-10-liquid-chlorine-in-dfw-area-t29442-40.html
I have had this happen twice during this slam process. When testing the chlorine. Pink changes to a clear tannish color. Never completely clear. The first time I wasted a lot of drops trying to get to clear. This time I stopped at a 110 using the 10ml size. Of course I can't get a cc as I never got it to clear even going to 300 the first time. My last good reading was 45 two hours earlier with 0 cc, does that happen when it is over 50?
I read the article. Maybe I missed my situation. The first scoop of the powder turned pink then instantly clear. I added the second scoop and the sample turned bright pink. Then started adding drops. Stayed pink till close to a 100 drops then turned tannish and never changed. Did test twice in case I messed up. Counted 160 drops first time then stopped at 110 second time. This also happen the previous night when I believe the chlorine was very high. I have done 7 tests over the course of 2 days for the slamming process. All worked fine when levels where anywhere from 21 to 45. The last reading of 45 was fine and had to add more chlorine to bring to 56. Actually did a little less chlorine than suggested on the pool calculator. Test was done 2 hours after adding the chlorine.
Well, we generally say the test works up to 50ppm, but I do not recall seeing many people trying to go beyond this.
I notice a faint tan color even at lower FC levels, but attribute it the vial being a little dirty.
I would think once the pink is gone, you are done.
You sure this is still the easiest path forward?
I notice a faint tan color even at lower FC levels, but attribute it the vial being a little dirty.
I would think once the pink is gone, you are done.
You sure this is still the easiest path forward?
I know you think I need to drain again. I am hopefull that I will pass the oclt tonight. I don't and didn't have algae prior to starting this switch to chlorine. After draining and refilling I dropped the CYA by more than half. If I can get through 2 more months water restrictions will ease and possibilities of rain and backwashing may help. My chlorine levels have been holding from 9 am till 1 in full sun. I added additional to ease it up a bit closer to the 50 . That level held until 3 in a 102 weather and full sun. Then at 5, I had the issue with the test results.(Maybe it was just the person doing the test) Combined has been zero at the 1 pm and 3 pm test. Perhaps I am the eternal optimist, but I was able to see the screw that fell out of my Polaris on the bottom of the pool, so the water is pretty clear. I know you have much more experience at this and I am a newbie, but I am doing the best I can. Draining the pool completely is somewhat daunting, a pool that has a crack would be worse off than CYA of 120 to 140. I just tested again and at 45 which is where I was before the bad test results. Still o cc
I now need to raise my CH. Should I let the FC drop some or am I okay to raise ch. Also I tested my TA and it went from green to blue to yellow! It was 80 before the slamming. What happened
High FC changes the test colors. Read the extended instructions sticky. I'd suggest letting the FC drop a good bit first to avoid possible calcium clouding due to the temporarily higher pH. (Which will drop as the FC level lowers)
In an attempt to raise the calcium hardness from 150, I seem to have gone overboard to 300 after the slam.
current test results
FC 25.5
cc 0
TA 125 this was 80 before slam process and adding calcium chloride
ch 300 was 150 before adding calcium chloride. I have gone back and used various test results and can not come up with where I got 25 lbs should have been 19
My FC is still too high to test ph
One step forward two backwards
current test results
FC 25.5
cc 0
TA 125 this was 80 before slam process and adding calcium chloride
ch 300 was 150 before adding calcium chloride. I have gone back and used various test results and can not come up with where I got 25 lbs should have been 19
My FC is still too high to test ph
One step forward two backwards
Luckily you still need to do over 50% water change for your CYA, so it's a mistake that will be fixed before too long.
Sent from my HTC Thunderbolt.
Sent from my HTC Thunderbolt.
CH at 300 is within range, especially since you have a plaster pool; no worries there. TA is not badly out-of-whack, either. It may cause the pH to drift up a little faster, but as you add acid to adjust the pH, you'll be slowly lowering the TA, too. *Edit: Also, high chlorine interferes with the TA test (as well as with the pH test). Re-test once the chlorine level comes down. You may be fine. *End edit. There is no reason to do anything more about it at this point.
And yes, if you drain to adjust CYA, you'll affect these values, too.
And yes, if you drain to adjust CYA, you'll affect these values, too.
Pool calculator range of 250 to 350 mine is now 300 why is it recommending draining to drop ch. I am in the middle. Before I drained pool I was at 200 and recommendation was to raise
It is a VERY common misconception among newbies that the poolcalculator will fix your pool. It won't
Likewise it is equally common that some folks think the test kits we talk about will fix their pools. It won't, either.
They are both tools to help you get the precision you need to manage your pool but the knowledge of pool water management has to come from reading what we teach and learning what we teach.
As you learn, you will find that suggested CH values for your pool are 250-400 ppm. Armed with that knowledge, you know that a CH of 300 is pretty close to perfect and you can leave your CH alone.
Read Pool School and ask lots of questions to gain the knowledge you need. Then, use poolcalculator and a test kit as precise tools to help you apply that knowledge.
Likewise it is equally common that some folks think the test kits we talk about will fix their pools. It won't, either.
They are both tools to help you get the precision you need to manage your pool but the knowledge of pool water management has to come from reading what we teach and learning what we teach.
As you learn, you will find that suggested CH values for your pool are 250-400 ppm. Armed with that knowledge, you know that a CH of 300 is pretty close to perfect and you can leave your CH alone.
Read Pool School and ask lots of questions to gain the knowledge you need. Then, use poolcalculator and a test kit as precise tools to help you apply that knowledge.
If you set your target level to 250 and did not change it after adding the CH and you reset the present level to 300 then the calculator is telling you to drain to drop from 300 to 250. If you reset the target to 300 then the recommendation to drain will go away.
After slam FC was 44.5 early morning reading
later in day dropped to 37.5
next morning was 25.5
later in day dropped to 18
this morning still 18 5 hours later full sun over 100 still 18.
I would like to test ph, but can't due to chlorine. Any ideas on how much longer it will be to get down to 9.
I have kids swimming tomorrow should I be concerned what the ph level is before they swim? I assume with the large group tomorrow the chlorine will go down. Am I just worrying to much. I have been testing water obsessively since getting on BBB. Hopefully things will get balanced and I will gain more knowledge. Thank you in advance for getting me through all of these situations
later in day dropped to 37.5
next morning was 25.5
later in day dropped to 18
this morning still 18 5 hours later full sun over 100 still 18.
I would like to test ph, but can't due to chlorine. Any ideas on how much longer it will be to get down to 9.
I have kids swimming tomorrow should I be concerned what the ph level is before they swim? I assume with the large group tomorrow the chlorine will go down. Am I just worrying to much. I have been testing water obsessively since getting on BBB. Hopefully things will get balanced and I will gain more knowledge. Thank you in advance for getting me through all of these situations
There is no reason to assume your pH has changed so don't worry about it.
Likewise, the CH can be adjusted later. Probably not next month but next week is just fine.
You are below shock value and your water is clear and you passed the OCLT on Friday. Go swimming.
Likewise, the CH can be adjusted later. Probably not next month but next week is just fine.
Yes.
You are below shock value and your water is clear and you passed the OCLT on Friday. Go swimming.
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