Really high alkalinity (300)...

[mvbighead]

Looking for extra feedback here.

I have been checking the CC several times over the past week. Always 0. I have been bringing FC up to shock every 2-3 days as I still have a small amount of that debris left (from the picture above, I'd estimate that I have 10% of that kind of junk on the bottom).

There is no FC loss over night.

So the question is, based on the pool school and "turning the green swamp..." is whether or not the algae is completely dead? Just curious as every time I brush, I stir up the green stuff and the water is green looking. If I leave it alone, water is clear as the picture above more or less shows. The debris has been a nuisance to say the least, and I am hoping to get it all out, but it seems like a never ending battle.

 

[duraleigh]

Item number one is to mechanically remove ALL the solids you can. Then,you can clear your pool and get it to crystal clear . I haven't read your whole thread so I'm not sure why you still have solids in your pool?

 

[mvbighead]

Item number one is to mechanically remove ALL the solids you can. Then,you can clear your pool and get it to crystal clear . I haven't read your whole thread so I'm not sure why you still have solids in your pool?

Well, I lost control of my pool last year, and at the time it was using a SWG. I never was able to get it corrected, so I gave up and figured I'd figure out what to do over the winter, which lead me here.

Long story short, I have been dealing with an accumulation of Crud in the water, but I could never seem to vacuum much of it up because the inlet that vacuum connected to would plug almost instantly, and nothing I tried would prevent it. It wasn't until I started priming the hose and just running it down a hill to let gravity create suction that I was able to clear much of the debris. That picture from page two is a rough indication of how bad it was.

Any hoo, I have since installed a new through-wall skimmer that is MUCH better than the hang over the side type I got from Intex that seems to be improving the debris collection from above. But I am still dealing with (what I assume to be) remnants from last years green swamp.

I'm getting closer, but just looking for a general opinion as to whether I need to maintain shock values until everything is completely out of the pool, despite the numbers looking good. Hopefully that makes sense. I'll try to add another pic when I get home.

 

[JasonLion]

Getting everything solid out of the pool is really important.

If there is debris in the pool, say leaves on the bottom, you won't be abel to maintain clean water at the normal FC levels. The leaves create patches of bad circulation that give algae somewhere to get started and it can then eventually overcome the normal FC levels. You might be able to get away with something lower than shock level, but definitely not as low as regular levels.

 

[mvbighead]

Perfect, thanks Jason.

Well, just as an update, here are my latest test results:
FC - 5.0 (increasing to 10 with 72oz 12.5 chlorine)
CC - 0
PH - 7.6 (dropping to 7.0 with 86 oz MA 31.25) (Raising with aeration to reduce TA)
TA - 175
CYA ~ 35
CH - 300 -> I suspect I need to lower this? Ideal is 50-300, so I am right at the high mark. Calculator suggest replacing water to bring this down, and I suspect my well water has a high CH. Hmmmmm.

Picture coming momentarily.

 

[linen]

For cya of 35 ppm your shocking level should be 14 ppm. Try and keep it there or slightly above that as much as possible.

Ignore CH for your pool, it won't cause problems till it is really high.

I would not do the aeration process during the shocking process since you FC will be over 10 ppm and the ph test is not valid at those high FC levels.

 

[mvbighead]

For cya of 35 ppm your shocking level should be 14 ppm. Try and keep it there or slightly above that as much as possible.

Ignore CH for your pool, it won't cause problems till it is really high.

I would not do the aeration process during the shocking process since you FC will be over 10 ppm and the ph test is not valid at those high FC levels.

Actually, I was going by what Jason said. Slightly less than shock but slightly more than typical.

I generally test the PH when the FC drops into the normal range (5ish). At this point, I have been trying to get the TA down from 300 and am currently at 175.

I have a picture that hasn't yet uploaded to G+, but once it does, I'll upload it here. There is just a smidgeon of debris left, but the water is clear generally the next day after a brushing. I just need to do some more vacuuming and brushing to work on getting the last of it.

 

[mvbighead]

Well, the one I wanted to upload hasn't uploaded, but here is the one I took last night.

 

[duraleigh]

I would focus on removing the debris, keeping the chlorine high, and filtering 24/7 until that pool is CRYSTAL clear....you're pretty close now but you'll be stunned just how clear you can get it.

I would ignore the 175 TA.

 

[mvbighead]

I would focus on removing the debris, keeping the chlorine high, and filtering 24/7 until that pool is CRYSTAL clear....you're pretty close now but you'll be stunned just how clear you can get it.

I would ignore the 175 TA.

So don't even worry about the TA??? I was under the impression that that being that high would cause issues.

Definitely working on the first part. Just sucks some times as I continue brush and brush and my vacuuming never seems to produce the results I am hoping for. In fact, my best vacuuming thus far has come from priming the hose and running it over the side of the pool. Never clogs, never loses suction, it just keeps going, and going, and... Only downside is losing water and having to replace it with more water.

 

[JasonLion]

There is no need to worry about TA until everything else is sorted out. Having TA a bit lower is a good long term goal, but unless you have a SWG or waterfall or fountain, high TA is unlikely to cause short term problems.

 

[mvbighead]

Well, in all honesty, reducing the TA has just been a part of my weekly process. I've gotten it way down from 300, but it more or less is a simple application of acid and leaving the return pointed to the surface. I just figure it is something I can continue to work out while I work on other stuff. Getting much closer to the "goal range" of 80 to 120.

 

[mvbighead]

There is no need to worry about TA until everything else is sorted out. Having TA a bit lower is a good long term goal, but unless you have a SWG or waterfall or fountain, high TA is unlikely to cause short term problems.

What exact problems would that cause with a SWG?

Only reason I ask, is I assumed mine was broken as it was constantly suggesting it needed more salt, despite adding well over the required amount. Just curious as I am now not sure if it might still work and my TA was way out of range which was causing all of my troubles?