Just starting BBB

Sigh ... There are stains on the bottom of the pool now and I think a smidgen of mustard algae (I saw yellow dust when I brushed). About 2 weeks ago I had mustard algae and used Yellow-Out and had iron stains after that so I did a AA treatment and it worked beautifully. Pool looked good for a day or so.

Now with this monkey wrench thrown in, what is my plan of attack now ? I do not have any AA left ( I would have to order online again).
I was thinking of backwashing until I could no longer backwash (to remove algae/iron) and then drain pool 1/2 way and refill, etc and then attack the staining next week when my AA is here, or I could be totally off base :hammer:

P.S as of right now, the water is pretty clear. I could see bottom with no problems at all.
 
TechJPC said:
Sigh ... There are stains on the bottom of the pool now and I think a smidgen of mustard algae (I saw yellow dust when I brushed). About 2 weeks ago I had mustard algae and used Yellow-Out and had iron stains after that so I did a AA treatment and it worked beautifully. Pool looked good for a day or so.

Now with this monkey wrench thrown in, what is my plan of attack now ? I do not have any AA left ( I would have to order online again).
I was thinking of backwashing until I could no longer backwash (to remove algae/iron) and then drain pool 1/2 way and refill, etc and then attack the staining next week when my AA is here, or I could be totally off base :hammer:

What is AA treatment?
 
duraleigh said:
Does your fill water come from a well? Do you have positive test results for iron in your water?

No well water.. I'm in a major city in NJ so it's municipal water. I assumed it was iron because the Vitamin C test removed the stain instantly. I'm guess maybe the algaceide I used had some sort of metals in because in 10 yrs Ive never had ANY staining.
 
UnderWaterVanya said:
TechJPC said:
Sigh ... There are stains on the bottom of the pool now and I think a smidgen of mustard algae (I saw yellow dust when I brushed). About 2 weeks ago I had mustard algae and used Yellow-Out and had iron stains after that so I did a AA treatment and it worked beautifully. Pool looked good for a day or so.

Now with this monkey wrench thrown in, what is my plan of attack now ? I do not have any AA left ( I would have to order online again).
I was thinking of backwashing until I could no longer backwash (to remove algae/iron) and then drain pool 1/2 way and refill, etc and then attack the staining next week when my AA is here, or I could be totally off base :hammer:

What is AA treatment?
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C powder)
 
Joe, one of the tenants we teach is to not throw things in your pool if you are not sure of the outcome.

There is no reason for you to do an AA treatment unless you test positive for metals.

Stop using Yellow-out...it voraciously consumes chlorine.

Go back to the issues you need to address....

1. You have no FC....algae is on the way....ok, you put some bleach in the pool

2. Your CYA is too high and you should drain about 1/3 of your pool, refill, then 1/3 again, refill and test.

3. Your pH is too low. If you do not drain refill right away, you will need to bring your pH up to 7.0 or more.

Stop by a pool store tomorrow and test for metals.

If you have a puck, hold the puck on the current stains for a minute or two and tell us if it lightens the stain or not.
 
duraleigh said:
Joe, one of the tenants we teach is to not throw things in your pool if you are not sure of the outcome.

There is no reason for you to do an AA treatment unless you test positive for metals.

Stop using Yellow-out...it voraciously consumes chlorine.

Go back to the issues you need to address....

1. You have no FC....algae is on the way....ok, you put some bleach in the pool

2. Your CYA is too high and you should drain about 1/3 of your pool, refill, then 1/3 again, refill and test.

3. Your pH is too low. If you do not drain refill right away, you will need to bring your pH up to 7.0 or more.

Stop by a pool store tomorrow and test for metals.

If you have a puck, hold the puck on the current stains for a minute or two and tell us if it lightens the stain or not.

I will not use Yelow-Out again. Vitamin C lifted the stain last night. The middle of the pool is not stained, it's just the perimeter of the pool that is stained and it's only on the bottom, not the walls.. It's not that bad yet but I can definitley see it. I put another 182 oz of bleach in this morning and I will be draining tonight after work and balancing the water afterwards.
 
Will draining the pool as you suggest (little more than 1/2 in one shot) do anything to my liner as far as wrinkles go ? I'm also reading that if your liner is more than 5 yrs old (mine is 10yrs old), you may risk shrinking and the liner becoming brittle.
 

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Drained and refilled and got my cya down to 40.

Ph 7.2
Cya 40
Ta 90
Cc 0.5
Fc 13.5
Cl 5

What I got from poolcalculator is just to add 9.3 oz of washing soda using the troublefreepool goal levels.

Can someone please help me here?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
Hey, Joe,

Don't get mad at me here but I want to help you by teaching you....be patient for a few posts.

I don't have the pool calculator open so tell me why it is telling you to add the washing soda? In other words what parameter does it want you to change?
 
OK. but if you look at the article, "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School, you find that the very acceptable parameters for pH are 7.2 - 7.8. Since you are at 7.2, you are fine.

My point is the pool calculator will not fix the pool nor should you use it as a hard and fast set of dictates that you have to meet for each time you test. The calculator is merely a tool to help you get within the ranges of "normal".

Additionally, my experience teaches me (and you will soongain this experience) thatMOST pools will tend to rise in pH and almost never lower so my thinking would be to leave the pH right where it is and not adjust it unless it gets to 7.8 or higher.

Does that make sense.

How does your water look? Stains still the same?
 
duraleigh said:
OK. but if you look at the article, "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School, you find that the very acceptable parameters for pH are 7.2 - 7.8. Since you are at 7.2, you are fine.

My point is the pool calculator will not fix the pool nor should you use it as a hard and fast set of dictates that you have to meet for each time you test. The calculator is merely a tool to help you get within the ranges of "normal".

Additionally, my experience teaches me (and you will soongain this experience) thatMOST pools will tend to rise in pH and almost never lower so my thinking would be to leave the pH right where it is and not adjust it unless it gets to 7.8 or higher.

Does that make sense.

How does your water look? Stains still the same?

So just let it filter and check it every day using the K1000 basic kit?

Water look good but the staining is making it look green and not blue.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
Yes, that's what I would do. Your numbers now all look pretty good. Let you FC drift on down into the 3-5ppm range but never let it get below 3ppm.

Monitor pH and chlorine using the K-1000 for a week or so and then let's see what the stains are doing. If they are lightening up a little, then just leave them alone and they will eventually go away. If they have stayed the same, we'll get a plan to get rid of them.
 
duraleigh said:
Yes, that's what I would do. Your numbers now all look pretty good. Let you FC drift on down into the 3-5ppm range but never let it get below 3ppm.

Monitor pH and chlorine using the K-1000 for a week or so and then let's see what the stains are doing. If they are lightening up a little, then just leave them alone and they will eventually go away. If they have stayed the same, we'll get a plan to get rid of them.

Ok sounds easy enough. I do have some Jacks Pink Stuff and some Nava Algaecide 60 .Should I throw in some Pink Stuff?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
duraleigh said:
Yes, that's what I would do. Your numbers now all look pretty good. Let you FC drift on down into the 3-5ppm range but never let it get below 3ppm.

Monitor pH and chlorine using the K-1000 for a week or so and then let's see what the stains are doing. If they are lightening up a little, then just leave them alone and they will eventually go away. If they have stayed the same, we'll get a plan to get rid of them.

The only way to check FC is the drop test, right? How often should I check that?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 

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