I have a 20x40 gunite / plaster pool with 8.5' deep end and auto cover in SLC, UT. All pool equip (pumps/filter/heater/SWG) are outside on equipment pad and not enclosed. The pool was finished and started up early July of this year. It is a SWG pool, but I have been using liquid chlorine for now based on PB recommendation to not add salt for first year. pH continues to rise and I find myself adding acid about 1x per week to keep it balanced. I was getting ready to close it for the winter, but after talking with PB, he recommended I simply blow out the waterfall/slide lines, maintain normal water level, keep the main drain/skimmer pump running all winter long on low RPM and monitor pH regularly (and dose acid as needed) to prevent winter scale build-up. I respect this PB's experience, but also am a bit concerned about a number of things that could go wrong during a cold winter with water levels left above tile line and water running through my pump, filter and heater all winter long. I guess my main questions are: If I do close my pool (blow out lines all lines and lower water level to blow tile line), and notice pH constantly rising, is it reasonable to add acid and simply drop a sump pump in the pool to help circulate? - OR - Should I keep it "open" per PB recommendation and hope we don't have too severe of freezes this winter that could damage pipes/pumps/filter/tile?
4 mo old gunite/plaster pool in Utah with auto cover - Close for Winter or Not?
- Thread starter utodd
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,889
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP.
Your PB has unusual old school recommendations.
When Should Salt be Added? In our industry, there seems to be some consensus to wait 30 days before adding salt to new plaster pools, yet some say it is okay to add salt within a couple of days of filling the pool. Who is right? This thread describes why it appears that the recommendation to wait 30 days before adding any salt is appropriate for most plaster pools, including quartz and pebble pools.
The Borate Pool Opening in Aqua Magazine discusses how borates can limit pH rise while a pool is closed for the winter. High pH while a pool is closed can cause scaling. For those that find their pools with very high pH at Spring opening borates may benefit with the pool open or closed.
Pick your poison. I think it is easier to fix any scale problems then fix cracked pipes and equipment.
Once you close your pool you should leave it closed and not add chemicals. You cannot adequately mix chemicals in a closed pool, especially acid.
What would your water chemistry be at closing:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
SALT
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
Your PB has unusual old school recommendations.
When Should Salt be Added? In our industry, there seems to be some consensus to wait 30 days before adding salt to new plaster pools, yet some say it is okay to add salt within a couple of days of filling the pool. Who is right? This thread describes why it appears that the recommendation to wait 30 days before adding any salt is appropriate for most plaster pools, including quartz and pebble pools.
The Borate Pool Opening in Aqua Magazine discusses how borates can limit pH rise while a pool is closed for the winter. High pH while a pool is closed can cause scaling. For those that find their pools with very high pH at Spring opening borates may benefit with the pool open or closed.
Pick your poison. I think it is easier to fix any scale problems then fix cracked pipes and equipment.
Once you close your pool you should leave it closed and not add chemicals. You cannot adequately mix chemicals in a closed pool, especially acid.
What would your water chemistry be at closing:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
SALT
Plaster Installation and Maintenance - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Borates in pool - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Closing Pool for Winter - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Thanks for your reply. This PB is definitely "old school." I read through the article on Borates and seems to be a possible route for me to consider for winter closing to keep pH from rising as an insurance against scaling. I would assume I would be adding Borates now and getting them in the 30 to 50 PPM level now and then close pool. Also, I have read in this forum the suggestion to add Polyquat 60 at closing and so would plan on doing that too.
As for current chemistry, here is where I am at:
FC: 3.5 ppm
CC: 0
pH: 7.2
TA: 80 ppm
CH: 450 ppm
CYA: 75 ppm
SALT: 700 ppm
As for current chemistry, here is where I am at:
FC: 3.5 ppm
CC: 0
pH: 7.2
TA: 80 ppm
CH: 450 ppm
CYA: 75 ppm
SALT: 700 ppm
- Jun 7, 2024
- 432
- Pool Size
- 7300
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Intex Krystal Clear
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,889
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I would try and get your TA down around 60 then close the pool. Borates or not.
www.troublefreepool.com
With a TA around 60 your pH will reach equilibrium in the low 8s. And at 80 in the mid 8s. Neither of those pH should cause scale with your water chemistry.
Your old school PB probably has no clue what the TA is of the pools that he has seen with winter scale versus the ones who don’t get it.
www.troublefreepool.com
Lower Total Alkalinity
A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.
www.troublefreepool.com
With a TA around 60 your pH will reach equilibrium in the low 8s. And at 80 in the mid 8s. Neither of those pH should cause scale with your water chemistry.
Your old school PB probably has no clue what the TA is of the pools that he has seen with winter scale versus the ones who don’t get it.
PH TA Relationship - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Thank you for the replies and direction. Very helpful. A couple of other questions. I now have my Alkalinity around 60 and am planning on lowering water level to below tile line/skimmer and blowing out my main drain/return/skimmer lines and pump. I have read in posts on this forum that some people pour RV antifreeze in their skimmer in addition to using a Gizzmo as well as pouring RV antifreeze in their blown out pumps. Is this just simply an added extreme measure of protection in the event of hard freezes or is this the recommended method to winterize pools in climates that get regular freezes throughout the winter but may not have regular hard freezes (like Utah)? Would I be fine to simply skip the RV antifreeze and blow out lines/pumps and leave them?