HELP WITH MY BAQUA CONVERSION PICTURES INCLUDED

Add enough CYA to raise CYA to around 40. You shouldn't have to add more CYA until next season unless something unusual happens.

You can swim as soon as there is CYA in the water and the CC level is 0.5 or lower two days in a row.
 
To get CC to drop you stay at shock level and wait. Staying at shock level is easier once the CYA is in, since you will stop losing all of your chlorine to sunlight each day. Usually CC comes down fairly steadily and predictably, so you should be able to get a good idea of how long it is going to take fairly quickly.
 
I have never used the liquid stabilzer. They say it registers faster, but it is way more expensive. I just buy my stabalizer from wal-mart or Lowe's. It is granular, so I hang it frome a tube sock in front of the return. If you give it regular squishings, it seems to disolve pretty fast. About 2 days or so. It may not register on your test for about a week, but just dose your chlorine like it is already in there and things will be fine. =)
 
Conversion is still going well. I have no idea what the FC level is at this point. I will receive my testing drop refill tomorrow. The pool is getting more clear every day. I can now see the bottom which I haven't seen in a month. The water has a very green tint to it. I have been adding 1.5 gallons of bleach in the morning and at night. I will give the true test of FC tomorrow when my drops arrive. The filter is being swapped out daily and ever time there is less gunk in it. I am planning on doing a good vaccum tomorrow since I can finally see the bottom. So if I test my FC tomorrow and keep it at 15 and tomorrow I loose 1 or less I am done adding bleach? I need to add cya then? How far do I let the FC level to drop? Should I put any algaecide in? Shock the pool? HELP! :mrgreen:
 
7. When you lose 1 ppm of chlorine, or less, overnight it is time to clean out your filter and change the media.
Once the filter is cleaned up, add enough CYA to reach 30 ppm. Continue to maintain FC at 15 ppm.

8. Your conversion is complete when CC's are 0.5 or less two days in a row.

9. You are now ready to review Recommended Levels and ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and begin balancing your water

so, keep adding bleach! :)

No algaecide!
 
ok so keep the fc at 15 until the cc is 0.5 2 days in a row. Then i let the fc level go down? to what? Where should the fc level be kept? what is safe to swim? do you have to check both fc and cc in order to swim?
 
The correct day to day FC level depends on your CYA level. With CYA around 40, FC should be between 3 and 7, and never below 3. You can find numbers like these in the Chlorine / CYA Chart in Pool School.

Save to swim is FC in the normal range (or a bit higher), PH between 7.2 and 8.0, the water clear, and no obvious algae or other biological contamination.
 
OK! Here are my numbers for today
ch-250 TC 10 FC 12 PH 7.2 AK 120 CYA 0
I am using the taylor kit to test except for TC level using a strip b/c it uses too much of my taylor reagent.
It is hard to keep up with the FC 15ppm today because it is 100 degrees and sunny. I feel that we may be ready to CYA(already bought the liquid kind) testing tomorrow am will show. Do you need to still keep the FC at 15 during the hot day or is it just important to keep it there at night and in the am?????
If you get in a pool with with high TC what will happen?
 

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7/18/2011 day 5 clearer and clearer everyday!
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afoster0822 said:
Is combined chlorine the same as total chlorine?

No, Total Chlorine= Free Chlorine + Combined Chlorine

Which brings me to a question for you...you show your TC (total chlorine) being higher than you FC (free chlorine) which is not possible. How are you testing?
 
oops.. not sure must have my # wrong. I am testing the FC with taylor kit titrating powder.... The CC I was using the Taylor kit but it was using too much reagent. I am using aquacheck select test strips to measure TC(is that the same as CC)....
 
afoster0822 said:
I am testing the FC with taylor kit titrating powder.... The CC I was using the Taylor kit but it was using too much reagent. I am using aquacheck select test strips to measure TC(is that the same as CC)....

The aquacheck test strips are pretty useless, in fact you have proven that with your results, so I would stop using them.

Again...Total Chlorine (TC) = Free Chlorine (FC) + Combined Chlorine (CC)

As can be seen from the above equation, CC is not the same as TC!

I do not quite understand why CC was "using too much reagent"? When you are shocking a pool you will need to know CC, so you will know when to stop shocking.
 
This is what the instructions state....
Chlorine (Free, Combined) Test1. Rinse and fill large comparator tube to desired mark with water to be tested.NOTE: For 1 drop = 0.2 ppm, use 25 mL sample. For 1 drop = 0.5 ppm, use 10 mL sample.2. Add 2 dippers R-0870. Swirl until dissolved. If free chlorine is present, sample will turn pink.NOTE: If pink color disappears, add R-0870 until color turns pink.3. Add R-0871 dropwise, swirling and counting after each drop, until color changes from pink to colorless.4. Multiply drops in Step 3 by drop equivalence (Step 1). Record as parts per million (ppm) free chlorine (FC).5. Add 5 drops R-0003. Swirl to mix. If combined chlorine is present, sample will turn pink.6. Add R-0871 dropwise, swirling and counting after each drop, until color changes from pink to colorless.7. Multiply drops in Step 6 by drop equivalence (Step 1). Record as ppm combined chlorine (CC).
When I tried this I kept adding droppers and could not get the water to change back to clear..... You end up using a ton of r0871 and running out... Are there any other ways of testing cc
 
Yeah I am not sure I used like 10 drops last time. I was told the conversion is complete when you have CC 0.2 two days in a row but I don not know when that might be?
Should I still be testing FC every hour or just at night and the morning the sun is really eating it up at this point.
 

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