3 week old SWG pool, first test with my new TF-Pro kit. Water clear but readings do not look good..

[av8rOC]

PoolMath Logs

api.poolmathapp.com

So those are my results:

3.5
FC
0.5
CC
8.2
pH
130
TA
10
CYA
3000
SALT

PH is high, TA High and CYA off the charts low(I estimated 10ppm as I filled my view tube to the top and I could still see the dot clearly on the bottom). I am running my pump at 25GPM from 8am to 11pm every day.

Also I should note I did not use the speed stirrer for any of the tests as it was not shipped with my kit for some reason.

 

[av8rOC]

For comparison, here are the results from Aquachek 7 strip test. These results look good to me. Weird...

 

[mknauss]

Have you added any stabilizer or stabilizer containing products?

 

[av8rOC]

Have you added any stabilizer or stabilizer containing products?

I've added nothing since the pool was opened a few weeks ago, I don't know if the pool company added any.

 

[mknauss]

OK --

I would get 30ppm CYA worth of stabilizer soaking in a sock.

That will lower your pH a bit.

Keep our FC based on a 40 ppm CYA level using FC/CYA Levels

 

[Newdude]

PH is high, TA High and CYA off the charts low(I

Sweet !!!! Easy fixes my good man.

Lower the PH to 7.2. Run the jets to aerate it back up. Lower it again. Each cycle will drop TA by 10. Stop at 100 and it will figure itself out where it wants to be.

CYA can’t be read under 20. 20 itself is iffy at best. Use pool math and add 20 ppm. Give it a few days and we’ll see if it worked.

Get your FC up pronto and test a few times a day until the CyA is up and protects it. It will burn off quickly (hour or two) right now.

 

[av8rOC]

OK --

I would get 30ppm CYA worth of stabilizer soaking in a sock.

That will lower your pH a bit.

Keep our FC based on a 40 ppm CYA level using FC/CYA Levels

OK, thanks. I am probably reading it wrong but I dont see a 40 ppm CYA on the chart for SWG pool. Looks like 60 is the lowest.

 

[av8rOC]

Sweet !!!! Easy fixes my good man.

Lower the PH to 7.2. Run the jets to aerate it back up. Lower it again. Each cycle will drop TA by 10. Stop at 100 and it will figure itself out where it wants to be.

CYA can’t be read under 20. 20 itself is iffy at best. Use pool math and add 20 ppm. Give it a few days and we’ll see if it worked.

Get your FC up pronto and test a few times a day until the CyA is up and protects it. It will burn off quickly (hour or two) right now.

OK thank you. So for now I boosted the SWG output to raise FC. Tomorrow (when pool store opens) I will add Stabilizer and muriatic acid per pool math. Sound good?

 

[Newdude]

am probably reading it wrong but I dont see a 40 ppm CYA on the chart for SWG pool. Looks like 60 is the lowest.

Ha !! We forgot you had one already. Aim to be 60 and then inch up to 70. It’s real easy to overshoot and only comes out by draining. Best to do this one in stages.

 

[mknauss]

OK, thanks. I am probably reading it wrong but I dont see a 40 ppm CYA on the chart for SWG pool. Looks like 60 is the lowest.

Correct. But Jumping to 60 ppm in one addition is not a good idea.

A rule of thumb. Keep your FC at ~10% of your CYA level (60 ppm CYA = 6 ppm FC).

 

[av8rOC]

Update:

3 days ago I added 8 lbs of stabilizer and 2.5lbs of PH down. I have been running the filter 24hrs over the last 5 days. My pH is still at 8.2 but honestly it was higher in the last first two tests, too high to measure. Today's 8.2 is an honest 8.2 and it is definitely trending down as is the TA, down 10 every few days and now at 110. Stabilizer is now at 70 after after being at 0 just 3 days ago.

**What is alarming is my FC has been climbing the last few days and is now at 17.5. I did a basic drop test first when I checked pH and thought something was wrong, the TF-100 FC test confirmed I am way too high. I just shut the pool off.

Should I drain water and add refill or just not run the pool and let the sun burn off the chlorine? Is it OK to swim with FC that high?

PoolMath Logs

api.poolmathapp.com

 

[av8rOC]

Correct. But Jumping to 60 ppm in one addition is not a good idea.

A rule of thumb. Keep your FC at ~10% of your CYA level (60 ppm CYA = 6 ppm FC).

Looks like I screwed up. I added 8lbs of dry sstabilizer per pool math's recommendation and now I am up at 70 after 3 days. FC is off the charts though at 17.5.

 

[Newdude]

No worries. You are safe to FC of 28 with a 70 CYA. It will drop 2-4 FC a day on its own. More with heavy swimming and blazing sun. Run the pump as you would and either set the SWG to 0% or unplug it.

Also, from here on out, use Muriatic Acid to lower PH.

 

[wireform]

If the FC is high just let it drift down on its own. You can shut the SWCG for one day and then test for it or just run it very low for several days while checking on it, when you're close to target bring it back to where it'll keep the FC in target.

 

[av8rOC]

Thank you! The only Muriatic Acid available in my area was no listed for use in pools: Klean-Strip Green 1 Gal. Green Muriatic Acid-GKGM75006 - The Home Depot

That's why I went with the dry PH down from a pool store. Not sure where I can find pool safe muriatic around here.

 

[Newdude]

Thank you! The only Muriatic Acid available in my area was no listed for use in pools

Ha. I was just reading their safety data sheet for somebody the other day and lol’d at that. They specifically say not to use it for pools because they’ve only tested it for etching purposes. But MA is MA so it’s all good. Anything green / Eco / low fume on the label means it’s half strength. 14.whatever % instead of 30whatever%. Their data sheet listed ‘specifically withheld as proprietary trade secret’ and garuanteed to be 10%-30%. Yeah, ok. Its watered down half strength or it has fumes.

HD/ Lowe’s / Ace etc all have it in the paint aisle, or the good stuff in the pool aisle sometimes. Believe it or not, the pool stores are a decent buy most the time for MA. Even if it’s a few bucks more, but they have it, score.

 

[av8rOC]

Ha. I was just reading their safety data sheet for somebody the other day and lol’d at that. They specifically say not to use it for pools because they’ve only tested it for etching purposes. But MA is MA so it’s all good. Anything green / Eco / low fume on the label means it’s half strength. 14.whatever % instead of 30whatever%. Their data sheet listed ‘specifically withheld as proprietary trade secret’ and garuanteed to be 10%-30%. Yeah, ok. Its watered down half strength or it has fumes.

HD/ Lowe’s / Ace etc all have it in the paint aisle, or the good stuff in the pool aisle sometimes. Believe it or not, the pool stores are a decent buy most the time for MA. Even if it’s a few bucks more, but they have it, score.

Good stuff, thank you!