2gal of 10% bleach/day...Does this seem like too much?

I just moved to Texas last year and bought a house with a pool that needed some rehabilitation. It was “in working condition” according to the contract, but that probably means they had poured in a bunch of “shock” and clarifiers. I found the packaging. Shortly after moving in, our DE filter blew its top (thankfully after my small children and I had walked away from it after rescuing a frog that had jumped into the skimmer). It turns out that the filter had been cracked and epoxied.

All that to say, we had an opportunity to make equipment replacements and we opted for a SWCG. The company we hired are actually the ones who taught me about the FC/CYA relationship, told me to get the Taylor FAS/DPD kit, not to use the tab feeder but to use liquid chlorine. They weren’t pushing salt, but I was interested in it. Their biggest concern was to make sure that I understood that a salt pool is still a chlorine pool, not some sort of “chemical-free” water, whatever that might mean. I do remember their explaining that salt levels in residential pools are still considered “freshwater” for other equipment so not to panic that my DE filter was labeled as such. They said that there is a lot of misinformation about SWCGs, especially in Texas, among pool builders. My stone looks very similar to yours, and it flakes and chips, but they told me it’s the nature of the stone, and adding a few hundred pounds of salt to the pool won’t accelerate it particularly. (The pool had plenty of deteriorating stone in the months before we went to salt.). I have to manage my pH frequently by adding muriatic acid a couple times a week (no fancy setup like Dirk’s), but I do really like having my chlorine added consistently throughout the time the sunlight hits my pool.

I think that was just a long-winded way of saying that Texas seems slow to hop on the SWCG bandwagon, and the concerns that are often raised about corrosion don’t really seem to have strong science behind them. Do your research, ask your questions, and see if you can find a good installer if you need one. (I don’t do electricity and plumbing and have no advice for you there.)
 
This is all very encouraging. It will be pricey to convert but it sure does sound interesting. I may start asking around for local PBs to get a system design and pricing. My orig PB prices for materials such as led lights are higher than I can get on Amazon. Thinking about asking for quotes with materials and labor priced separately in case it’s less expensive for me to purchase via Amazon.
 
Whoever does the work, be sure they install the SWG with at least 1' of straight PVC pipe, uninterrupted by any fittings, directly before the SWG (flow-wise). At least Pentair SWGs (probably others) needs this straight "runway" to keep the internal flow switch happy.
 
That’s going to be tricky. Not much room in the pvc spaghetti bowl.
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They can install a loop by removing the ozone device. It will go vertical and the SWCG will be placed on the down side of the loop.
 
And the answer is “yes” I am perfectly fine with dumping the ozone dilly bopper. Pretty sure it does nothing.

That might leave enough room for the SWG and a good run in front of it, if that's the right place in your plumbing scheme. They can always go up and back down, if they have to. If they do, I think they need to honor which way the SWG points (up or down). If I remember right, I read something here that when vertical, one direction is better than the other. Something to do with gravity and the flow switch, I think. Sorry, can't remember which direction, though.

If you need more horizontal run, you could point the elbow coming out of the heater back towards the wall, then come up'n'over the "in" elbow for a longer horizontal run. You'd need a couple of elbows to bring that back down to the level of the following valve.

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Uhg, Marty always types faster than me! He's got the orientation answer for the vertical install...
 
So CYA is at 70. Losing 3ppm FC due to Sun per day. Therefore I am looking at 1 gal of 10% per day. This is better than 2 gal per day for sure. Looks like I need to keep my CYA a little higher on the recommended end here in Houston (or go through tons of bleach).
 
The date on the Chlorine bottles and boxes is written using what is called the Julien date. For the picture above 18160 is the 160th day of 2018. So yes Dirk, you are correct with June 8, 2018. Always check the boxes at HD and LOWES. I have actually seen boxes with 2016 and 2017 dates still stamped on them. Might as well just toss the money into the pool, it will probably clean just as well as what's in those bottles. I had a Lowes employee actually get mad at me for cracking open a new pallet of chlorine. It was less than 2 weeks old... I explained to him the dates stamps and he agreed and helped me load some up. Good Luck!!

Julian Date Calendar... https://www.calendarlabs.com/view/2018-yearly-julian-calendar/926
 

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