15 June 2024 This is like starting up a chemical plant!

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Reason for my question is that the tiles need to be grout free in between each other so they can accept the colored plaster and not show the color of the grout.

 

[setsailsoon]

Thanks, I'll point this out to him tomorrow. We have black grout for the 1 in by 1 inch tiles. The most recent accent pieces seem to be missing grout. Another good catch I really appreciate your time to help me get a better build. We are also noticing in the spa we really need a step in one of the corners. You can sit down to get in no problem but my wife has a problem getting out. Thinking to see if he can add a step.

 

[kimkats]

I see see your "Slightly Demented" just waiting to do some damage! That is what we call our reciprocating saw. He is mighty but must be used with care as he can get a bit wild if given the chance LOL

Good job trying out the spa to make sure Robin can get in and out. It should be easy to put a small step in for her.

 

[setsailsoon]

I see see your "Slightly Demented" just waiting to do some damage! That is what we call our reciprocating saw. He is mighty but must be used with care as he can get a bit wild if given the chance LOL

Good job trying out the spa to make sure Robin can get in and out. It should be easy to put a small step in for her.

Good catch! Yep, if I'm doing all this plumbing I need some extra muscle and straighter cuts I get with the saws-all. It does also garner a lot of respect from me. Thanks for the reminder - always good to think safe first!

Interesting note on plumbing. I'm finding difficult to find a real pool plumber. Lots of plumbers with no experience on pools and they need so much help from me it's easier just to do it myself. But pool plumbing for the most part isn't something you can do on this pool with parts from your local big box store. Here's some of the issues and work-around I've used:

• Spa parts mentioned above are an example. But they are figureoutable (is that a word?) with a little research.
• The only place I could find 2 1/2" and larger fittings that are pressure rated was an irrigation supply that will sell retail. Prices are still at or very close to online and it's great to have quick access to things like 2 1/2 - 2" bushings and 2 1/2" couplers plus 90 and 45 deg elbows!
• A commercial plumbing supply that requires you set up an account with your LLC. I can go that route but it takes time for credit check etc.
• I have access to commercial pool supply that can get most parts with 10% markup but they often have to order and then there's the wait again.

So my best option is to order pool specific parts like spa jet fittings, returns etc online and use the commercial/retail supply for piping and fittings that are larger than 2" sch 40 pressure pipe. This means order a few more than I think I need or I will come up short. It's OK to have some spare for future. Many will probably search and find plenty 4" piping at big box stores. Look closely though. It's DWV, it does fit a lot of sch 40 sizes but it's not pressure pipe and specifically not recommended for pressure service. DWV means Drains, Waste, Vent - all low pressure services. I've seen it a lot on pool pads and technically I think it actually works for most pressures seen on pool systems but I'm pretty sure a picky inspector would not pass it. Also the nerd engineer in me just doesn't like doing this any different than a real, qualified, experienced pool professional would.

Chris

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

“SIT-N-SPIN” spas are what most designers draw on the plans, that’s one of the first things I change when allowed to.

 

[setsailsoon]

“SIT-N-SPIN” spas are what most designers draw on the plans, that’s one of the first things I change when allowed to.

Aqua, what kind of changes do you typically make?

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

To the spa or the overall project?

 

[kimkats]

Lots of plumbers with no experience on pools and they need so much help from me it's easier just to do it myself.

AND you will know it is done right so................yeah it is on you now.

figureoutable (is that a word?)

It is NOW LOL

an irrigation supply that will sell retail.

I don't know if we have anything like that around here......................well I just went and looked and we do. Glad for the people who need it.

This means order a few more than I think I need or I will come up short.

I think having to order it you HAVE to get the extra as it takes a LOT more time so yeah............get more!

big box stores. Look closely though. It's DWV

awww good to know and remember for future help

Also the nerd engineer in me just doesn't like doing this any different than a real, qualified, experienced pool professional would.

As you have pride in your stuff so you will do it right AND it will look good too!

 

[setsailsoon]

27 May 2024 Today I re-learned benefit of "cold eyes review"

Today I was laying out piping to get a final check before I start to glue. My order of equipment was from left to right:

Filter - Heater - Filter pump (1.5 HP) - Main Pool Pump (5 HP)



Robin wanted to see how access was going to work out so she asked me to explain what pipe was going where. After I explained and she visualized this she asked a very smart question: Why don't you put the filter pump next to the filter and the heater pump next to the main pool pump? That's where they flow to and that still gives you access to the filter on the left end of the pad! So I disconnected some of the wire conduit tie downs and bonding connections to re-arrange:



Now It works out great I'll pull the filter out a little and run the discharge pipe on the filter pump high enough to get good access to it's controls. Only downside is 2 extra 90's on the suction pipe which is pretty minimal impact. I was "over driven" by nerd engineering details and missed the big picture. She's a pediatric nurse and quilter which I didn't realize are also excellent training for piping design!

I've provided a lot of step by step detail on this thread and that's partly to get objective feedback that has helped me a LOT. Probably a good best practice all OB pools.

I'm not done yet but it's never too soon to say "Thanks Folks"!

Chris

 

[JoyfulNoise]

My opinion is that the heater should be away on its own even if you have to add more pipe. Heaters are a PITA to work on and wedging them between equipment makes them even more of a PITA. I’d put the filter where the heater is and push the heater as far off as possible. And the heater exhaust should be away from everything - yes, hot air rises but it’s a forced draft heater which means that exhaust is more like a blow dryer than a draft exhaust pipe. You don’t want that heater blowing hot air around your expensive VSP.

 

[ajw22]

I was going to point out what Joyful did. Be very aware of where the heater exhaust, which is very hot, will be blowing. You don't want the exhaust blowing on the pump and filter.

I place gas heaters on an edge of the pool pad so that the exhaust faces away from all equipment.

I would place the heater on the outside edge of the pool pad as shown below and move the pump and filter over to the right...

 

[JoyfulNoise]

As I said in a previous post, you want as much of a 360° access to the filter as possible. You don’t want the filter backed up against the house wall. When you pull the filter top off to rinse it out, as is typically the case, you don’t want dirty water splashing all over your nice house wall. Pull the filter to the forward edge of the pad and give it lots of room on either side so that you, and maybe a second person, can lift the top up.

 

[ajw22]

As I said in a previous post, you want as much of a 360° access to the filter as possible. You don’t want the filter backed up against the house wall. When you pull the filter top off to rinse it out, as is typically the case, you don’t want dirty water splashing all over your nice house wall. Pull the filter to the forward edge of the pad and give it lots of room on either side so that you, and maybe a second person, can lift the top up.

Heater and filter in front, pumps to the rear.

 

[setsailsoon]

Matt and Allen great input. The heater at the left end does simplify things a little since all the returns are on the left end as well. So here's what rev ~10 looks like with some alignment pipe only friction fit. I could put the heater back and bring the filter out to give slightly better filter access but then that puts the heater right up close to the sub panel. As it is now I still have great access to the filter and have a lay-down spot to the left. There's also a hose bib on the left wall that I can use a short hose to clean the elements on the water treatment pad out of picture to the left. I'm getting pretty happy with this layout. I've also checked for room to install diverter tees, actuators, check valves, swg etc. It all works. Also at the bottom I've identified which riser pipes are what service.

What do you think folks?

Chris

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I see your reciprocating saw there … good for tree limbs but if you want to cut pipe I suggest a smaller one-handed version -

Amazon.com

I own one of those and with the right blade on it it cuts straight through SCH40 pvc like a hot knife through butter. And best of all - one-handed and no cord needed.

Just a tip for the “next pool” you build

 

[setsailsoon]

To the spa or the overall project?

To the spa.

 

[setsailsoon]

More photo's of the pad. Got the big 4" line bushed down to 3" on the main 5 hp pump and lined up level/square and glued in. Rest should should be easier since it all seems to line up nicely also. Allen and Matt, thanks again!

Chris

 

[proavia]

I'm too lazy to look back thru 50 pages in this post...

Based on the last pics of the incomplete plumbing runs -
Are you putting in a heater bypass?
Are you running filtered or unfiltered water to the heater?
SWG location?

It's going to take a lot of rattle cans to spray paint all that pool and irrigation PVC pipe.

 

[setsailsoon]

I'm too lazy to look back thru 50 pages in this post...

Based on the last pics of the incomplete plumbing runs -
Are you putting in a heater bypass?
Are you running filtered or unfiltered water to the heater?
SWG location?

It's going to take a lot of rattle cans to spray paint all that pool and irrigation PVC pipe.

Don't blame you... it's been a long journey. Yes, plan to put a bypass on the heater. Will be pretty easy with the RPi control since I've got a lot of spare outputs. The filter pump is independent of the main 5 hp pump. This is mostly due to water control with the fairly unique combination of infinity wall and zero edge pool. So it's not filtered just before entering the heater but pool water is filtered. SWG will be in the discharge piping from the heater before the split to the 3 different options (pool floor returns, spa, sundeck bubblers). I've never painted pvc but think it might be a good idea especially now while it's pretty clean.

Chris

 

[proavia]

Woo hoo - 1000 posts in this thread!