24 Foot Doughboy Installed Today

Coveys

Active member
May 6, 2019
44
Central FL
Well here’s the progress so far. Electrical passed inspection first time and all that’s left is the final. Water should be full tomorrow and deck will be next month. I’ll take some more photos after the backfilling and leveling is complete.
 

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Hi! Congrats! I am still trying to pass electric. Can you please let me know if your pool is a resin pool? If so, how is the pool wall bonded, assuming it is steel wall.

Thx!!
Sure I’m a licensed Electrical Contractor and did some research on above ground pools. If your uprights are metal you need to attach a copper chair lug type DB at 4 locations if they’re resin this step isn’t needed. I drove a 5/8 by 10 foot copper ground rod next to my equipment pad, ran a number 8 solid bare wire from the ground rod to the motor frame, from the motor frame to the Burndy plate you see attached to my skimmer. I had to drill a 3/16 hole in the bottom of my skimmer to attach the plate. From the plate is a lug to which I attached the bare number 8 from the motor . I then ran a 8 solid bare around the perimeter of the pool and attached to the 4 lugs.
 
Sure I’m a licensed Electrical Contractor and did some research on above ground pools. If your uprights are metal you need to attach a copper chair lug type DB at 4 locations if they’re resin this step isn’t needed. I drove a 5/8 by 10 foot copper ground rod next to my equipment pad, ran a number 8 solid bare wire from the ground rod to the motor frame, from the motor frame to the Burndy plate you see attached to my skimmer. I had to drill a 3/16 hole in the bottom of my skimmer to attach the plate. From the plate is a lug to which I attached the bare number 8 from the motor . I then ran a 8 solid bare around the perimeter of the pool and attached to the 4 lugs.

My uprights are resin...the only metal is steel walll. I need to bond the steel wall but trying to figure out if I need to do it at one spots or 4...
 
There is no reason to bond the wall nor is it required. Bonding is to make the water safe hence why a major electrical manufacturer sells an above ground pool bonding kit. The inspector would pass this installation I recommended as the water in the entire pool is bonded because the plate is submerged in the pool. Bonding the wall would do nothing because you swim in the water not on the walls. Also if the water is bonded and has a path to ground theoretically so would the walls because they are submerged in the water as well.
 
NICE! Just think! You will have that water to fall into when you get hot from doing the outside of the pool work!!

Now lets talk about your pipes and equipment...........please tell me there are valved and unions of the pipes. There should be a valve to stop the flow of water from the return and skimmer. That way you can work on the pump and filter without having to lower the level of the water every time. Unions to allow you to take everything out without cutting pipe.

Kim:kim:
 
NICE! Just think! You will have that water to fall into when you get hot from doing the outside of the pool work!!

Now lets talk about your pipes and equipment...........please tell me there are valved and unions of the pipes. There should be a valve to stop the flow of water from the return and skimmer. That way you can work on the pump and filter without having to lower the level of the water every time. Unions to allow you to take everything out without cutting pipe.

Kim:kim:
How’s this look? I’m not a plumber but the unions are there.
 

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No unions on the filter :( A union looks like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Homewerks-Worldwide-1-in-PVC-Sch-40-Union/50160559
Right now the only way you could open you filter is to cut the pipe.

I do THINK there are unions on the pump but am not 100% sure. I will let you look at it closer and mess with it to see if you can disconnect the pipe from the pump.

I also do not see any valves. You have not way to stop the flow of water. I have my valves right under the return and skimmer.

All of this is easy to fix. Remember measure twice, cut once!!

Kim:kim:
 
No unions on the filter :( A union looks like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Homewerks-Worldwide-1-in-PVC-Sch-40-Union/50160559
Right now the only way you could open you filter is to cut the pipe.

I do THINK there are unions on the pump but am not 100% sure. I will let you look at it closer and mess with it to see if you can disconnect the pipe from the pump.

I also do not see any valves. You have not way to stop the flow of water. I have my valves right under the return and skimmer.

All of this is easy to fix. Remember measure twice, cut once!!

Kim:kim:
Thanks for the help. This will give me a nice weekend project in the future. :)
 
Backfilling is complete. Waiting on the deck for a few weeks to avoid settling. Then some landscaping, lighting, sound system, deck and plenty of drinks! Here’s how it looks now.
 

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Looks great! What did you use to backfill? Our pool is being delivered on Saturday-hopefully we will be comparing pictures soon!
We’re in Central FL on property that used to be orange groves. Because of that our soil is very sandy. We mixed sand with a slurry mix around the pool and the rest is just old soil and sand mixed. Can’t wait to swim tomorrow for my sons 4 birthday.
 
Sure I’m a licensed Electrical Contractor and did some research on above ground pools. If your uprights are metal you need to attach a copper chair lug type DB at 4 locations if they’re resin this step isn’t needed. I drove a 5/8 by 10 foot copper ground rod next to my equipment pad, ran a number 8 solid bare wire from the ground rod to the motor frame, from the motor frame to the Burndy plate you see attached to my skimmer. I had to drill a 3/16 hole in the bottom of my skimmer to attach the plate. From the plate is a lug to which I attached the bare number 8 from the motor . I then ran a 8 solid bare around the perimeter of the pool and attached to the 4 lugs.
Is their an advantage to bonding a resin pool at the skimmer basket or using a kit like this that bonds at the pump.
 
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I posted this in my own thread, but seeing as you are an electrical contractor I would love to hear your opinion, if you would give it.

I live outside of any city limits and in a county were there are no permits. I understand the purpose of these permits is for a safer experience and since my family will be swimming here for a long time (knock on wood) I don't really want to cut corners. Having said that some of these bonding requirements seem overkill, but I am open to being convinced otherwise. So here we begin my bonding questions.
1) Is the ring really necessary considering my pool will be only 4" above that 4' mark where these become necessary? My alternative would be a large grounding rod connecting the pool seam and all the electrical components.
2) I am burying 3/4 of the pool about 18", so should the grounding ring be 4" below the top of the bury all the way around, or can I lay it at my dug level (18" most of the way)
3) my SWG (Solaxx Saltron Retro XL) doesn't seem to have a bonding location, should I worry about bonding this, if so how?
4) I have purchased grounding lugs from Menards, but I am not sure if they are ok for "Direct Bury" since they don't say.
Here is what I have.
Here is what I am thinking of replacing them with.
 
Just because you're in a county doesn't mean permits aren't required. May want to check with your county building department. I live in a county but anything over 42" in depth is required where I am.

Safety of your friends and family should be paramount and I would recommend if you have the time to check out this series. Mike Holt Enterprises - The Leader in Electrical Training.

Below are my answers to your questions in red.

1) Is the ring really necessary considering my pool will be only 4" above that 4' mark where these become necessary? My alternative would be a large grounding rod connecting the pool seam and all the electrical components.
In my opinion yes it is necessary. But it's up to you.
2) I am burying 3/4 of the pool about 18", so should the grounding ring be 4" below the top of the bury all the way around, or can I lay it at my dug level (18" most of the way)
It can be at the dug level, I don't believe a particular depth is of that much importance for a ring.
3) my SWG (Solaxx Saltron Retro XL) doesn't seem to have a bonding location, should I worry about bonding this, if so how?
If there isn't a bonding lug on the unit I would just make sure it's plugged into a GFI Weather Resistant Receptacle and make sure it's working properly.
4) I have purchased grounding lugs from Menards, but I am not sure if they are ok for "Direct Bury" since they don't say.
If they aren't stamped DB chances are they are rated for direct burial.
 

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