2-inch PVC warped!

[EAnton]

I noticed this recently, we've only been here a few months so I'm not sure if this warping is new, old or progressing. Does anyone know what could cause this?



I'm very comfortable replacing PVC in residential DWV and sprinkler applications but this would be my first pool systems repair so any advice before I tackle this? I'm assuming schedule 40 home depot pipe, fittings and cement would suffice?

 

[Richard320]

If that's on the suction side of the pump and some genius didn't know that schedule 125 is actually schedule 12.5, I could see that happening. Otherwise, not a clue.

 

[mas985]

Is that section of pipe right after the heater?

 

[NeedMoreSun]

Wow, that would disturb me too!!!

I'd guess either of the above, or a combination. Using DWV or anything less than Sch. 40 and being right after the heater, or something similar. I'd get another pic a little further out for the experts around here to look. However, if you've done DWV and sprinklers you'll have no problem redoing that correctly once the cause of it is also resolved so it doesn't repeat.

 

[EAnton]

Thanks for the info, I've gathered some more details. I'll try to snap a wider shot tomorrow. I just confirmed schedule 40 is printed on this pipe and surrounding fittings.

The drain & skimmer lines go to the 2.2 hp pump.
Pump goes to DE filter nautilus NS60.
Filter goes to laars series 2 ESC heater and THIS is where the warped pipe is.
Heater then sends to returns.

So this is the pressure side of the pump but before heat. Everything is 2 inch pvc.

 

[duraleigh]

Both the intake and output of heater pipes are typically metal for maybe 18" or so. Not sure how the heat is backing up (no internal check valve) but I would say the issue is lack of metal extensions to and from the heater.

 

[mas985]

Do you have a cool down mode for the heater (heater off with pump on for at least 15 min) or have you shut down the pump and heater at the same time? The later could be the issue as the heater has not had enough time to cool down and could soften the PVC although I would expect that on the heater output too.

 

[EAnton]

Thanks everyone. It is PVC all the way, no metal. There's about 6 inches of gray schedule 80 at the heater manifold, then its coupled to sched 40. I don't see warping on the output-side of the heater but the PVC pipe runs are much shorter. After the initial 12 inch drop you see here its almost completely covered in elbow, wye and valve fittings which I would think offers more rigidity.


I hadn't really thought about a cool down mode, I will do that after firing up the spa going forward.

If I were to add some metal pipe, what should I shop for? Brass, Copper, stainless?

 

[Richard320]

Thanks everyone. It is PVC all the way yo the heater manifold. I don't see warping on the output-side of the heater but the PVC pipe runs are much shorter. After the initial 12 inch drop you see here its almost completely covered in elbow, wye and valve fittings which I would think offers more rigidity.
View attachment 47356

I hadn't really thought about a cool down mode, I will do that after firing up the spa going forward.

If that pump is on an intermatic timer, you can retrofit a fireman switch that will cut the heater off twenty minutes or so before the pump stops. Just google it. If you're capable of that plumbing job, installing the switch should be a no-brainer.

 

[EAnton]

Perusing the Teledyne ESC manual to lookup a replacement flange pipe and it says, "The filter pump must continue running for at least 15 minutes after the heater shuts off to prevent damage to the system piping."

D'oh.