1st time poster. Help me SLAM?

[MontyQue]

12k gallon above ground pool. SWG (currently turned off prepared to slam). K-2006C test kit.
I was away for 10 days... house sitter told me the pool was getting cloudy. When I went in yesterday, I noticed pink/orange slime on the stairs, as well as in the corners (where the wall meets the floor) around the pool... aaaaand today it's green. Today I took out the stairs and hosed/scrubbed them. I brushed really well... Lots of pink stuff floating in the pool now!
Here are my test results:
FC: 2.2
CC: 0.6!!!!
pH: 8.0
Alk 200
Cya: 70
C Hardness: 120

I should also add that every time I shock my pool it turns green (different green, a clear green) because of metals. I've been relying on metal sequestrants/stain removers to help me with that.

Pool Math tells me to get a 2.2 FC/Cya 70 pool to 28. Should I just jump right in, or drain to lower Cya, or...? Thanks in advance.

 

[HermanTX]

You have several options.
You can start SLAM with CYA of 70 but it will take more chlorine to raise to 28ppm FC.
What type of shock do you use? It is recommended only to use Liquid Chlorine which can be purchased at Walmart or Home Deport or similar type stores.
Alternatively, you could drain 25-50% to lower CYA. It will also help remove some of the algae. My concern would be what is the water chemistry of the water you are adding back? Have you tested your fill water?
Remember to lower pH to 7.2 regardless of which option.
Let us know how you wish to proceed and we can guide you

 

[MontyQue]

You have several options.
You can start SLAM with CYA of 70 but it will take more chlorine to raise to 28ppm FC.
What type of shock do you use? It is recommended only to use Liquid Chlorine which can be purchased at Walmart or Home Deport or similar type stores.
Alternatively, you could drain 25-50% to lower CYA. It will also help remove some of the algae. My concern would be what is the water chemistry of the water you are adding back? Have you tested your fill water?
Remember to lower pH to 7.2 regardless of which option.
Let us know how you wish to proceed and we can guide you

Thanks Herman, I was planning to use liquid shock from Home Depot, but I guess I could also use Clorox bleach... right?
I haven't tested my fill water... I did get a pre-filter to attach to the hose to get rid of metals, though. How would you recommend testing fill water?
Should I lower pH to 7.2 before doing SLAM or anything?
Thanks again!

 

[HermanTX]

Thanks Herman, I was planning to use liquid shock from Home Depot, but I guess I could also use Clorox bleach... right?
I haven't tested my fill water... I did get a pre-filter to attach to the hose to get rid of metals, though. How would you recommend testing fill water?
Should I lower pH to 7.2 before doing SLAM or anything?
Thanks again!

DO NOT USE CLOROX BLEACH. Only use liquid chlorine.
You test fill water the same way you test your pool water. There is no CYA in plain water so no need to test that.
Read the SLAM document - lower pH to 7.2 before starting SLAM. Have sufficient liquid chlorine at house to top up FC level. Test every 2-3 hrs during daylight time and top up back to SLAM FC level.

Are you going to start SLAM with CYA of 70? Then SLAM FC is 28ppm. This must be Maintained (the M in SLAM) to optimize the SLAM duration.

 

[MontyQue]

DO NOT USE CLOROX BLEACH. Only use liquid chlorine.
You test fill water the same way you test your pool water. There is no CYA in plain water so no need to test that.
Read the SLAM document - lower pH to 7.2 before starting SLAM. Have sufficient liquid chlorine at house to top up FC level. Test every 2-3 hrs during daylight time and top up back to SLAM FC level.

Are you going to start SLAM with CYA of 70? Then SLAM FC is 28ppm. This must be Maintained (the M in SLAM) to optimize the SLAM duration.

Thanks Herman, I'm in the process of getting my pH down. I think I may have been wrong about the Cya level... I hate the black dot test so much. I even ordered away for the 50 ppm sample that they sell so you can tell what it looks like when the dot disappears... and read all the info about sunlight angle and holding it at your waist... still don't trust my results. I think I may actually be around 50.

 

[wireform]

Monty,
Just so you know when testing the CYA, you can pour it back to the bottle and go it again and again till you feel comfortable with your decision of the level you think it is.

 

[MontyQue]

Monty,
Just so you know when testing the CYA, you can pour it back to the bottle and go it again and again till you feel comfortable with your decision of the level you think it is.

Thanks, I hadn't thought of that!

 

[HermanTX]

Thanks Herman, I'm in the process of getting my pH down. I think I may have been wrong about the Cya level... I hate the black dot test so much. I even ordered away for the 50 ppm sample that they sell so you can tell what it looks like when the dot disappears... and read all the info about sunlight angle and holding it at your waist... still don't trust my results. I think I may actually be around 50.

Are you continuing to add liquid chlorine while waiting on the 50ppm sample for CYA test? You do not want the situation to get worst.

Also, you may want to try this method for reading your CYA as I find it easier and avoids staring at the dot as you pour.

Pour the mixed solution to a known level, say 90, peer in and confirm you can see black dot. Now pour mixed solution to 80 mark, peer in again, if you can still see dot, hold tube up and pour mixed solution to the 70 mark, then peer in again to view dot. Continue this until you are not able to see the dot - then use your CYA number as the value you last saw the dot. This method avoids constantly looking down the tube which can create the illusion of always seeing the dot due to staring down the tube. This also helps that you only report CYA values in decade numbers due to the logarithmic scale of the tube.