1st Pool Build | Sugar Land - Skimmer Repairs Done - Hardscape Finished

Have you tested your hard water? Mine (in Katy) is 100 to 125 CH the 3 or 4 times I tested over the past couple of years. I have my fill via the softener and have added some hardness increaser occasionally. However, I have also hooked up my hose and added the hard water on occasion. So it really may not matter which way you do your hook up if your CH test is about the same value as mine. I run my CH at 250 to 325 with no issues. The only thing you need to be aware is that the only way to reduce CH is by draining and refilling so you do not want to get in a position of dealing with high CH on a continuous basis.

I haven’t personally tested. Might ask my neighbor that has a pool to see if he can test for me.

I’m in sugar land area in MUD128 but can’t find any data on my specific one for some reason.

But all the other ones around us and main sugar land look to be in the 130 range. If it’s in fact around that based on what your saying it won’t really matter?
 
I haven’t personally tested. Might ask my neighbor that has a pool to see if he can test for me.

I’m in sugar land area in MUD128 but can’t find any data on my specific one for some reason.

But all the other ones around us and main sugar land look to be in the 130 range. If it’s in fact around that based on what your saying it won’t really matter?
I personally like having the main fill via the water softener as that puts me in control of how much CH is going in the pool. With your autofill tied to hardwater then all evaporation, splashout, etc, will be constantly filled with hardwater. Just something you have to watch over time. It is not a huge amount of CH but it does add up over time, maybe a year or more.
 
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I haven’t personally tested. Might ask my neighbor that has a pool to see if he can test for me.

I’m in sugar land area in MUD128 but can’t find any data on my specific one for some reason.

But all the other ones around us and main sugar land look to be in the 130 range. If it’s in fact around that based on what your saying it won’t really matter?
Howdy neighbor....dont worry about the CH from the fill water, were fine in this area. I have my autofill plumbed to my irrigation system and in our 4 seasons with the pool, the CH always is within 250-400 range.
 
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The Dig has begun. What would a pool build be without some pictures on dig day and of course some mess ups and changes to the plan.

Since we have to access between neighbor and I they had to remove a tree that was dying from the freeze that my neighbor was okay with. With them doing that and the pressure of the bobcat popped my main water line. Yay! They said dig will be done today and they will fix it right after that.

Then they tried to go just in my side of the yard but it was way too tight so they had to remove a bunch of fence panel instead (more than was budgeted) The other option was circling through my neighbors yard and I didn't want to destroy his yard and any irrigation system or pipes so this was the best route.

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Dig is complete. So they hit the main water line where the water softner people had extended it out to get it past some concrete since my unit is outside. They ended up putting a temporary bypass till the plumber comes out tomorrow and repairs it properly. I have to say so far they have been really on top of things, cleaned up the front of the house and driveway like they weren't even here. Now hopefully the weather will permit for them to move on to next step.


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Now hopefully the weather will permit for them to move on to next step.
Nice thick Texas clay. Time to get out the tape measure again and verify that they dug deep and wide enough for your pool profile. You can add about 10 inches on sides and 6-8 inches on bottom to account for gunite thickness.
 
Nice thick Texas clay. Time to get out the tape measure again and verify that they dug deep and wide enough for your pool profile. You can add about 10 inches on sides and 6-8 inches on bottom to account for gunite thickness.

Oh yeah, it was thick as heck coming out there. Nice and tough.

So I went out there and measured and it looks like they hit everything. I only had one question in regards to the tanning ledge I guess which I will get to. The inner measurements of the pool is 12x35. The current dig out is 14x37 which accounts for the coping on both ends and the gunite per your measurements.

In terms of the depth, it looks like they hit the mark on everything there as well based on the rough measurements i was able to pull out at the locations where they spray painted. Those coincided with the depth profile marks on the sheet below that I used as a guide.
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The only thing I was wondering, my tanning ledge is supposed to be 4.5 feet. When I measure from the back wall to where the ledge ends, it is right about 5 feet. So that would put it at 4'2" if you account for the 10" you mentioned for the walls. At that point do I essentially also add 5-6" becuase the gunite will also go out an extra amount from where the end of the ledge would be which makes it right? That was my assumption.
 
The only thing I was wondering, my tanning ledge is supposed to be 4.5 feet. When I measure from the back wall to where the ledge ends, it is right about 5 feet. So that would put it at 4'2" if you account for the 10" you mentioned for the walls. At that point do I essentially also add 5-6" becuase the gunite will also go out an extra amount from where the end of the ledge would be which makes it right? That was my assumption.
I think you are on track based on the measurements you provided. I found this article which is a good read. Also, you can verify with your PB how they will form the shelf and the stairs.
 
Rebar and Short Stub Plumbing was finished today. If you guys notice anything please let me know! Reminds me of when we built the house. Everything to start moves so fast, then it just gets slower and slower till it's done and all the finishing is where it needs to be.




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How much space is between the pipes on the floor and the rebar that passes over it?

The rebar should not be right on the pipes. A trench should have been dug for the pipes so the pipe is recessed in the ground.

Rebar needs to be encapsulated in 3" minimum of gunite for structural applications.

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How much space is between the pipes on the floor and the rebar that passes over it?

The rebar should not be right on the pipes. A trench should have been dug for the pipes so the pipe is recessed in the ground.

Rebar needs to be encapsulated in 3" minimum of gunite for structural applications.

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So I went out there and measured. Some have 3", some have 2" , and a few spots are 1" from the pipe. The larger return looking pipe from the bubblers actually as the rebar resting on top of it in a spot near where it goes into the ground. When I lift up the rebar a bit the pipe moves up with it almost like the rebar is keeping it down because it's not laying flat becuase of the slight slope on the sun shelf.

Should I email the build supervisor and let him know my concerns?
 
Should I email the build supervisor and let him know my concerns?

Yes. They should lower the pipe or raise the rebar.

That is typical two trades not coordinating. The supervisor should be finding those errors.
 
Yes. They should lower the pipe or raise the rebar.

That is typical two trades not coordinating. The supervisor should be finding those errors.

Project managers response.

“ Having the pipes ran like that and the distance to the rebar is the standard practice. There is no structural or plumbing issue that will come from that.”
 
Project managers response.

“ Having the pipes ran like that and the distance to the rebar is the standard practice. There is no structural or plumbing issue that will come from that.”

Well you can ask him what the standard practice is for encapsulation of rebar by gunite?

Or you can file that answer away should you have a problem in the future.
 

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