1963 pool resurection

He has agreed to just run one 3" like I originally asked. Would that drawing still basically apply if you substituted one 3" where the two 2 1/2" runs are? Still going both in and around filter and heater?
Also, I haven't spoken to him about this yet but it looks as if he has laid out 3 returns in the pool. 2 in the shallow end and one about mid pool near the stairs. I think they should be spread out more with at least one in the deep end. I hope he is not just being lazy and not wanting to trench out to the depend for a return that seems to me to be important.
Any thoughts?
Here a couple of pics. Kind of dark I'll try again in the morning. Looks to me like R represents a return. I'll confirm tomorrow.
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Would that drawing still basically apply if you substituted one 3" where the two 2 1/2" runs are? Still going both in and around filter and heater?
Basically although I would still use 2 1/2" on the pad. It makes it difficult to use 3" on the pad and like I said before, the benefit is less that when used for long runs.

Also, I think those two returns are pretty close to one another and he is just being lazy.
 
So 2" on the pad too? You will lose about 3 GPM.

For the pool it depends on the number of suction lines. With only one suction port (e.g. skimmer only), then I would go with 2 1/2" on the suction side. If you have more than one suction port, then 2" is fine but have him run lines all the way from the skimmer/MD to the pad for each port.
 
No safety issue. Running separate lines is done all the time in the industry. If he is concerned about entrapment, running two lines does not change that as long as one of the two ports is not shut off but you can do that in a skimmer too. So in terms of safety, there is no difference.
 

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I have separate skimmer and main drain lines run to my pad. What's the safety issue? I can see an equipment issue if you close the main drain, open skimmer, pump to waste, and walk away. Otherwise where is the issue? If you only have the single main drain, then maybe it needs to be tied to the skimmer to be compliant.


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Again, he's not against doing it if its not going to cause problems. It's just not how they normally do it. He said they used to Do it that way back in the '70's so they could sweep into the drain which is no longer the practice. He also said if the water line fell below the skimmer it would save the pump from sucking air.
He is going to do it for me though but is now curious to find out why it changed over the years. He also wants to know if he should then put a valve between the two.
Similar ideas about running returns all the way back to the pad. Doesn't see any value in it.
He also wants to put in a vacuum line for a cleaner which I told him to scrap since I will be using a robot.
He thinks I'm nuts. Oh well.
 
He also said if the water line fell below the skimmer it would save the pump from sucking air.
That only works if you have a float in the skimmer and it seals perfectly which they never do so most setups like that still suck air.
 
I would use a 2-way valve on each line. In most cases, these are usually set and forget and it is the MD that is most often shut down some so the skimmer works better. But if you need to remove a lot of water from the pool, it is nice to be able to shut off the skimmer and just draw from the MD. You can usually get pretty close to emptying the pool before the pump loses prime.
 
You can put a TEE after the pump near the valve for the bypass with a separate valve so that you can drain from that point.
 

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