We recently installed the 12V intellibrites. The run from pool to subpanel is almost 200 feet. There is a junction box above ground between the two and a transformer at the equipment site. The main panel is 250 ft from the subpanel. I think most applications would have shorter runs than that, and we don't have any problems.
Intellibrite Light: 12 volt vs 120 volt
- Thread starter QCJLo
- Start date
Thanks Yankeelawyer. Do you have any idea what gauge the wire run is? Those are pretty long runs - I was worried that I'd have to use fat wire to keep from having a large voltage drop. I don't think a voltage drop would impact the LEDs themselves, but it might impact the controlling electronics.
Yes, the gauge is 1/0 (fat wire) and our wire is aluminum. Copper wire would be even better, but is more expensive. We have our pump, boost-rite (for the Polaris), 4 LEDs, coverstar autocover, 2 exterior lights, and a 133BTU Heat Pump/Chiller hooked up. I was told that with our setup, we should stick to 60AMPs or less (but again, could do more if we swapped the wire for copper). Our electrician just checked everything again as we were adding the heat pump and found we did not need to upgrade the wire. For unrelated reasons (multiple exterior projects going on), we actually had 3 different electricians look at it, plus the county inspectors, which passed it.
Wow, 1/0 is definitely some fat wire!! Sounds like you have an interesting setup going on!
I registered just to post on this because I was pretty sure about my assumption on this, but the fact that not even the ones with far more knowledge on the subject than I haven't mentioned this....isn't it just a matter of where the transformer is located? You're gonna have one either way powering a 12v light board. It just a matter of whether that transformer is encased in the light fixture itself or in a box hanging on a wall. Or am I mistaken on my assumption or understanding?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,890
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP. Thanks for participating.
Transformer encased in a light fixture brings 120 volts close to the pool water and the voltage is only kept out of the water by the glass and gasket. Then you are relying on the GFCI functioning for safety.
Transformer hanging on the wall keeps 120 volts well away from the water and much less risk of electrical shock from a malfunction.
What was not mentioned in this thread is some 12V system transformers have multiple taps to account for the voltage drop. So you can select 13 or 14 volts out on the transformer on the wall to have the 12 volts needed by the light fixture in the pool. A good electrician knows how to balance wire size, run length, and transformer output to make a 12 volt system work properly.
I’m still figuring out the lighting situation with my pool, but I think a consideration for 12v vs 120v should also include how many lights are in the pool and whether you want to be able to control them individually. I don’t think there’s a way to have individual control if you just have all the 12v lights wired to one transformer. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,890
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You need a dedicated circuit, including transformer if 12 volt, for each light you want to individualy control.
That's what I thought. Each of my 120v lights is on a separate circuit in my EasyTouch. It's nice to be able to control them all individually, though I have no idea if that will be useful in practice.
