Have used the TF 100 Test Kit for years, and trust its results. Never an issue until now. 1) CH test; adding R-0010 & R-0011L resulted in very light pink. Took 20 drops of R- 0012 to become a faint blue. Did test twice; same result. If this is accurate, it indicates my CH is about 500 ppm. How red, does the "red" have to be to consider it accurate? Likewise, how blue does "blue" have to be to consider the test valid? To what degree should I rely on my own subjectivity?
2) TA test. Adding the R-0007 & the R-0008 resulted in a light green. After adding 40 drops of R-0009, I stopped for it never did turn red, just sort of a very light orange. Did this test twice, also. How green does "green" have to be to consider the test valid? Same with red.
Total pool test results: FC: over 10 ppm; CH: @500 ppm; TA: @400; CYA: 7.8; Salt: 3700. Water is clear & clean; heated by heat pump to about 85 degrees. Pool Math indicates I should add 16 oz. muriatic acid. I've turned off SWG until FC drops to about 4. Is there anything else I ought to consider? Any suggestions most welcome! Thanks very much.
2) TA test. Adding the R-0007 & the R-0008 resulted in a light green. After adding 40 drops of R-0009, I stopped for it never did turn red, just sort of a very light orange. Did this test twice, also. How green does "green" have to be to consider the test valid? Same with red.
Total pool test results: FC: over 10 ppm; CH: @500 ppm; TA: @400; CYA: 7.8; Salt: 3700. Water is clear & clean; heated by heat pump to about 85 degrees. Pool Math indicates I should add 16 oz. muriatic acid. I've turned off SWG until FC drops to about 4. Is there anything else I ought to consider? Any suggestions most welcome! Thanks very much.
it depends on city water. 