Pentair Clean And Clear 420 Cartridge Filter Exploded, Brand New Filter Leaking Help

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Hey some good news. Installed that check valve flapper and filled the spa with the hose. No drop in level this morning!!!!! One problem fixed.
Going to get the in floor caretaker center plate this morning then put it all together and turn it on. Im going to try without the guts and see what happens.
 
It seems to me like you have an obstruction somewhere in your plumbing. I would not run with a pressure that high. Mine runs no more than 20 psi full bore. If you cannot figure it out I would consider bringing in a plumbing expert to check all of your plumbing.
 
Dodger the Jandy check valve with the clear lid is next to the infloor. I replaced the flapper in that. The 30 psi check valve is also next to the infloor but mounted vertically next to the pipe that feeds the top of the infloor.

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UPDATE:
Got the piece and installed the caretaker with no internal guts. So the pump is now pushing out water into all the infloor heads at the same time. Now the gauge reads about 26-27PSI. Thats the good news.
BAD NEWS
The union at the infloor is now leaking like a sieve. I have tried 3 times to reinstall clean surfaces, etc. The thing is pouring out water from one side. It does look and feel like maybe it is cross threaded a bit. What the heck can I do to fix this? I dont have any room to cut it off and put a new fitting on. Please help I hope there is a solution.
733-D3192-5-FF7-495-C-90-A4-74-A16938-D574.jpg
 
Fadderall said:
Dodger the Jandy check valve with the clear lid is next to the infloor. I replaced the flapper in that. The 30 psi check valve is also next to the infloor but mounted vertically next to the pipe that feeds the top of the infloor.

- - - Updated - - -

UPDATE:
Got the piece and installed the caretaker with no internal guts. So the pump is now pushing out water into all the infloor heads at the same time. Now the gauge reads about 26-27PSI. Thats the good news.
BAD NEWS
The union at the infloor is now leaking like a sieve. I have tried 3 times to reinstall clean surfaces, etc. The thing is pouring out water from one side. It does look and feel like maybe it is cross threaded a bit. What the heck can I do to fix this? I dont have any room to cut it off and put a new fitting on. Please help I hope there is a solution.
733-D3192-5-FF7-495-C-90-A4-74-A16938-D574.jpg
Click to expand...

Is that fitting pressure rated? Anyway, looks like you can remove it from the lower piece and replace the entire elbow/90. That picture looks like it is cross-threaded as well. Are you using PVC pipe sealant? I really dislike threaded fittings.
 
James yes I checked the Oring cleaned and lubed.
Poolgate I dont know what the rating is but I have had this same setup for 8 years. I have removed it many times and it never leaked before. How tight are we supposed to go on these unions? I know I can replace the 90 part I am worried that it is the nut part which has no room to cut and replace. Can I fix this without cutting the pipe? Do these split nuts work?
Search split union | Poolcenter
SPLIT NUT UNIONS, HEATER TAILPIECES, UNI-NUTS GASKETS

It is a lot of water leaking out. I am going to look for cracks or anything weird again. Any thoughts?
 
Loosen both unions and then start both.

If you fully tighten one union before starting the other, you are more likely to crossthread.

Make sure that the o-ring remains seated.

Loosen both nuts, hold the 90 in place and then tighten both nuts at the same time.

Or, do the top one first leaving a little bit of slack and then do the lower one.

When reinstalling the caretaker head, did you line it up correctly using the guide pin and hole?
 
The Caretaker requires a union up there so that you can do maintenance on the manifold. I was also thinking o-ring. Perhaps buy a new one just in case yours got nicked.

BTW, 26-27psi is still a lot of pressure with the manifold guts out!! Still hoping there is no clog downstream to the pop-ups and that it's just the 3hp pump power.
 
James yes I lined up with the hole and pin on the caretaker. I have tried what seems like every which way to get the union together. Doing the top on first seems to work the best. But, it never gets together right. I cleaned the heck out of the threads just now, really got in there with a putty knife. Made everything as clean as possible. Lubed the mating surfaces and orings. Put the top on started the nut got it almost tight then did the bottom then went to tighten the last little bit on the top and can feel and hear the pop when it hits the cross thread. I cannot see where the thread is that damaged. I tried to check the nut for a hairline crack but cant see anything for sure. Do those split nuts work?

Dodger yes that is a lot of pressure. I planned to take the floor heads out and see if there is a clog in there. After that I can only think a sewer camera and snake the whole line. Maybe its just the pump. First I gotta get the circulation going.

Where would I have to cut to redo this union if it comes to that? Do they make thread saver or like plastic tap and die to fix the threads?
 

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Fadderall said:
Dodger yes that is a lot of pressure. I planned to take the floor heads out and see if there is a clog in there. After that I can only think a sewer camera and snake the whole line. Maybe its just the pump. First I gotta get the circulation going.
Click to expand...

If you remove more than one pop-up at a time, try to keep them correlated to which hole they came from. You may have different nozzle sizes for different areas and putting them back in different places can affect the pressure on each zone, and also the cleaning ability for each area.
 
Ill keep that in mind Dodger, thanks.
Just went to store and bought new Oring just in case. Nope still shooting out water. I dont really want to cut the whole pipe way down past the T. Anyone have any luck with the heating-the-pipe-to-break-the-weld technique? Any first hand knowledge of which technique works best? If I can just get the union nut side out of the 90 without damaging the 90 I could just weld in a new one easy peasy. It might be easier to do with the union since there is all that meat to grab onto with pliers.


Any other ideas before I start plumbing again?
 
I struggled with the Union several more times. By force and GI Joe kung fu grip I managed to get it to stop leaking. Well at first it was a drop every couple seconds, then every 8 seconds now it seems tight. But, the guts are still out of my caretaker. To put them back means opening the Union. I dont know if it will ever close again. I looked at some videos about burning heating the pipe apart. I also found a pipe reamer tool. Anyone try either of these yet?
 
bdavis, nice. Do you torch direct to the PVC or do you heat up a metal cylinder like a hole saw?
Anyone ever seen these socket savers?
RAPTOR® 2 in. Pvc/Abs Socket Saver Tool - 13512 - Ferguson

They look kind of flimsy and not very precision. I found the next level is like $40-$60 for the stout pipe reamer/shredder/hog like this one.
Rectorseal 98041 2-Inch Golden Pipe Shredder - Faucet Parts And Attachments - Amazon.com

At that cost I will try the heating method I think. bdavis, any advice on how to not mess up? What to watch out for? A good video on youtube about it?

Thanks all.
 
HELP and UPDATE: Pool has been running fine on auto. Water clearing up. Still high on PSI. Still have no infloor guts so all 5 ports are open. Union leaking again but not like before. Getting new union and will try to heat out the old part, then replace infloor guts and button up.

QUESTION:
Thanks to you guys I realize my pump is too big (3HP Service Factor 1.15 Whisperflo WFE-12). I cannot afford a new pump and these that I have run like champs. I came across the idea of downsizing my pentair whisperflo 3hp wfe-12 impeller. From what I understand this will reduce horsepower and flow so it should bring down my PSI correct?
I am having a hard time figuring out what I need. It looks like I will have to replace the diffuser to part#07297 because the one listed for my WFE-12 part#007298 says it is for 3HP only. The problem I am having is figuring out which impeller I need to get. Can anyone give me some solid advice on what part # I need to downsize my WFE-12 whisperflo 3hp pump to 1.5hp?
For example I found this part#073129 impeller but it is 1.5-2hp and part#073128 impeller but it is 1-1.5hp so which would I get to make my wfe-12 3hp pump into a 1.5hp pump?

Can someone confirm or deny my thinking here? Will changing the impeller downsize my pump flow and lower the PSI? Does that sound reasonable to go down to 1.5 HP? Can someone explain or at least tell me exactly what parts to get to make this happen?

Thanks as always guys.

REFERENCES
073128 1-1.5hp impeller
Pentair Impeller, 1 Hp Full 1 1/2 Hp Up. (073128) - INYOPools.com
073129 1.5-2hp impeller
Pentair Impeller, 1 1/2 Hp Full 2 Hp Up. (073129) - INYOPools.com
072927 .5-2.5hp diffuser
Pentair Diffuser Assy., 3/4 - 2 1/2 Hp (072927) - INYOPools.com
all whisperflo pump parts
Pentair / Purex Whisperflo Parts - INYOPools.com
Pentair Whisperflo Pump parts (PDF from PENTAIR)
https://pentairpool.com/~/media/websites/pool/replacement%20parts%20downloads/whisperflo_pump.pdf
 
Impeller......Total HP.

073126.........0.95
073127.........1.25
073128.........1.65
073129.........2.20
073130.........2.60
073131.........3.45

The total hp is the rated hp x the service factor.

A 1.0 hp motor with a service factor of 1.65 is the same as a 1.5 hp motor with a service factor of 1.1.

A 1.0 hp motor with a service factor of 1.65 is called a "full rated" motor.

A 1.5 hp motor with a service factor of 1.1 is called an "up-rated" motor.

They are both the exact same motor. They both have a total of 1.65 hp.

So, it's confusing to see one listed as 1 hp and the other listed as 1.5 hp.

The key is the total hp, which is what really matters.

So, you need the smaller impeller and matching motor and the new diffuser. You would also need a new seal part number PS-3865R or PS-1905.

The 1.25 or the 1.65 total hp should work for you.

The flow and pressure will be much lower, which is a good thing.

Your current pump is way too big.

Edit: I see that you want to keep the current motor and just replace the impeller and diffuser. That will work. The 073128 will give you the equivalent of a 1.65 hp pump.

It will lower the pressure, flow and power usage.
 
James your awesome thanks. I do want to keep the same motor just change the impeller. To confirm I would get
PART #073128 PENTAIR 1HP 1.5HP UPRATED IMPELLER
PART #072927 PENTAIR .5HP TO 2.5HP DIFFUSER

Do I still need the new seal? I have a Go Kit from Leslie's for that pump. Does that have the PS-3865r or PS-1905 seal? The only thing I used from the Go Kit was the pump housing oring when I started this thread.

Thanks again James!
 
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