Pentair Mastertemp 250 Diagnosis problem

Jack Strap

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Jun 21, 2014
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Allentown, NJ
Hi Everyone,

I have an 8 year old heater that does the following; can only be turned on and off by the breaker, when turned on, the temp display, pool light come on, it purges, lights (service heater light comes on) for about 20 seconds purges shuts off and the fault light on the underside of the board is AGS. I have put two calls in to pentair tech services, the first gentlemen did not inform me there was an error code on the back of the board, he told me to take out the thermal regulator and asked if it was corroded which it was, I put the plug back in and ran the heater without the regulator and had the same result, he asked me to hold down the pool button after the cycle, and because it showed the flue temp dropping he told me he was sure it was the membrane, ordered a new membrane and a new thermal regulator (since the old one was corroded and I had it out anyway) and installed both with no effect, same exact problem.

I called again and the first question the second guy asked me is the color of the display screen, he said red screens have the error code light on the underside of the control board, we ran the heater through a cycle and the AGS light lit up. He said the problem was the AGS shut off switch. I ordered the switch, today the switch came and although it has the correct number on the outside of the package the switch inside is the wrong one so I could not change it.

I looked at the diagnostic flow chart diagram and line diagram for the wiring, it says AGS replace auto gas shut off switch or high limit switch, since these are both normally closed switches I went out and jumped out the AGS with no result, I left the AGS jumped out and jumped out the HLS with no result. Since these are just normally closed switches and there was no impact bypassing them it seems like they may not be the problem. I hesitate to call Pentair again, so I thought I should turn to the real experts here at TFP, which obviously i should have done in the first place. The on off buttons do not work when it's running through it's cycle. I have put everything back together but I'm unsure what to do at this point, I could just call someone to fix it but would prefer not to. Since the buttons don't work and the membrane has been replaced could the problem be the control board? Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
If it were a board issue, I would think that the AGS light would be on from the beginning and the heater wouldn't even try to fire.

The symptom seems like the AGS is tripping early.

Can you describe how you jumped out the AGS sensor?

What was wrong with the new AGS sensor?

Do all of the buttons work for controlling the heater?
 
If it were a board issue, I would think that the AGS light would be on from the beginning and the heater wouldn't even try to fire.

The symptom seems like the AGS is tripping early.

Can you describe how you jumped out the AGS sensor?

Tooks a piece of #12 solid copper about 3"long stripped 1/2" off each end and inserted each end into the stay kon connectors for the switch, the connections felt pretty solid, I don't have a jumper with clips around so i had to improvise.

What was wrong with the new AGS sensor?

They shipped me the wrong one.

Do all of the buttons work for controlling the heater?

The buttons don't work

- - - Updated - - -

As soon as I turn on the breaker the heater starts, it won't turn on and off by the buttons, only by the breaker
 
The buttons not working is usually a membrane issue. Since you replaced that, it points to a bad board.

If you had the External Control Interface Circuit Enabled, the "Pool On" and "Spa On"
keys would be disabled. The "OFF" Key on
membrane pad should remain functional.

But, that's a jumper on the board that shouldn't be changed unless you have automation.

If the membrane pad connection didn't line up correctly, that could make the buttons not work.

If you connected the wires together to simulate a closed AGS switch and it didn't help, that points to a bad board.

I just wanted to make sure that you weren't putting the jumper on the AGS sensor.

I would replace the board.
 
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