Stenner - someone better at figuring this out

Derb22

0
Gold Supporter
Apr 29, 2018
328
Roswell GA
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60
Yes I’ve read through all the acid threads. To some degree I understand the idea of what to buy just not the actual equipment.
Pool needs 1/2 gallon of MA each week.

Someone just tell me the things to buy (model numbers, Amazon, etc etc ) when I go to the Stenner web page my eyes glaze over. My plan is to either use the 31% MA straight up or with the 15 gallon tank I could see diluting at a 3/1 rate if that would help the longevity of the equipment. If I did the math right full strength would basically fall at around one cup a day. If I dilute it then 3 cups a day. Someone tell me which Stenner pump combination that would be to run X number of hours a day to dispense.
At full strength 15 gallons is 30 weeks. Basically the whole pool season. At 3/1 it’s 10 weeks. I am also guessing I will actually use less to keep it at 7.6-7.8, than I am currently dosing it like a yo-yo back and forth from 8.0 to 7.6 every 6 or 7 days.
Also I have a basic non- digital Intermatic pool pump timer that runs the pump and the SWG. So I believe the Stenner needs it’s own timer that would only run IF the pump and Swg is running. Also, am I right that it should not have to run all that much each day to dispense 1 cup a day. I have a four by four wooden post that the main electrical/ timer box is on and the SWG is on the back side of this post. The equipment pad is outside in the open behind a partial wooden fence with easy access to the piping. there is a RayPac heater that is not working and can’t be fixed that the water passes through before the SWG. ( plan on replacing heater this fall or next spring) the plan if you all agree is to install after the heater and before the swg.
is that correct?


So. Plain and simple. You experts get an open checkbook from Stenner. Tell me what to buy. COST while important isn’t as critical to me as getting the RIGHT equipment to make this work and be safe for the pool. AND LET ME ADD SIMPLE!!!!!!!

Ready - set - GOOOOOOOO ......SPEND my money!!!!!! Wisely please. :suspect::suspect::scratch::scratch::safe::safe::bowdown::bowdown:
 
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I’ll take a swing. I would recommend purchasing a combo unit from poolweb. They drop-ship every combo that Stenner makes, but it’s not too hard to narrow things down when you know what you are trying to accomplish.

I went with a larger 30 gal tank for my acid but I am burning close to 1 qt of muriatic a day. (Was about 1/2 gal a day for the first month or so till things balanced out).

I chose the 100 psi unit with a fixed speed 3gpd pump. I went clear on the tank and line because my system is enclosed and clear makes it easier to see fill level.

This unit below is gray tank with black hose so it can be used out in the sun.

For dispensing, figure 3gpd/24hr = 2 cups an hour. So if your goal is 8 cups a week, then it needs to run for about half an hour per day.

Maybe go with one of the digital plug timer units so you can fine tune the minutes it runs.

I use the old school analog intermatic timer unit but that has enough accuracy for the volumes I’ am pumping.

As for pump run time, I run my pumps almost 24/7 so it’s not an issue for me. I would just set your timer to run dead in the middle of your pump run time though and you should be all right.

Put a check valve in between the injector and your equipment (I used flow-vis meter which acts as a check valve and let’s me see flow rate too). That way if the pumps don’t end up running for some reason, the acid stays downstream of the equipment.

Here is the link to get to the section for 15 gallon tanks with 100psi pumps. The screenshot below is one of the options from this webpage.

Stenner 15 Gallon Tank System With 100 PSI Fixed Pump 1/4 Inch Tube

Good luck!


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Thanks Back Yard!
The thirty Gallon tank is intriguing. I will start assembling the pieces and parts this week. A couple of questions. I am including pictures of my setup. My plan is installation after the heater and before the SWG flow sensor, I will add a check valve. I am going to look for a digital timer with a battery backup. ( any suggestions) Is it ok that during the 30 minute or so run time that there will be acid and chlorine possibly being generated at the same time? I think I am also going to install a heater bypass valve when I get the new heater this fall it seems to me that it’s a good idea to be able to isolate the heater out of the system? Did I read somewhere that this will also keep my SWG cleaner because of the acid going through it? Any reason not to go 30 gallons? It isn’t that much more in price and would get me diluted about 5 months worth of acid. Does acid go bad? Haha, just realized that Undiluted would be 2 years worth as I think I will use very little acid in the wintertime.
 

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I’ have to defer to the swg experts for placement. I placed it after all the equipment but perhaps there is some benefit to running it through the generator.... I remember reading somewhere a long time ago that an acid bath is some part of the cell maintenance.

I don’t inject the bleach and acid simultaneously - but I kinda doubt that a slow drip into a 45gpm water stream would cause a dramatic reaction.

My suspicion is that a swg generates trace amounts of chlorine in the water stream and wouldn’t cause a dramatic reaction, but again, I defer to the swg experts.

Argument against 30 gal acid tank is probably just space I suppose, and more volume to deal with in a containment failure.

Acid doesn’t really degrade... so no worries there. We usually buy our acid on the one sales day a year at our local pool chem shop. They sell it around $4/gal so we buy 80-100 gallons on that day.

2 years of acid seems a bit extreme, but hey, I suppose you would only have to deal with the fumes while filling the tank every 24 months - so that’s a plus. [emoji846]

On the 30 gal tank, watch your gpm and voltage. They also have 10gpm and 220v. Both of which you probably don’t want for this application.

Not sure if battery back-up is needed. If pool pumps and acid pump are both on intermatic timers, a power outage would take both timers down in sync, right? So while they would run at the wrong times of the day, it would be equally wrong times...
 
While I like to have the acid injection as the last thing in the line before the return, there is actually a small benefit in having it before the SWCG cell at the flows you'll be running. The slightly lower pH through the cell will help lengthen the cleaning cycle a bit. As long as it's about a foot before the swcg you'll be fine.

I'd probably go with the 15 gallon tank, just because 30 gallons of acid is a lot to have sitting around. If you're going to dilute it or buy 14% acid, then the 30 gallon would be fine. But I'd probably still go with the 15 gallon tank. :)
 
So I’m going to pull the trigger this week. I can put the acid injector about a foot and also before a 90 degree turn from the SWG, between heater and SWG. Last question. To dilute or not? Non diluted I am thinking 15 gallons. But if you guys think diluted is safer or longer lasting or the right way to go then I think I will go ahead and buy the 30 gallon tank. ( I’m liking the idea of 5 months of acid at a time). Any thoughts for or against?

Thanks again for all the help!!!!
 
Thanks Backyard. Yeah that was the one I was looking at. Thanks for keeping me straight on the GPD and Volts!

I think your thoughts are correct. Gives me the most options. As you can see in the pictures my setup is built like a large rectangle. I have a really big open area right in the middle next to the SWG. I believe it’s the perfect spot. Hard to tell in the pictures but it also never really gets sun due to the many trees in that area.

Here is the list.

1. Stenner and pump

2. back flow valve

3. injection T. ( any suggestions on the easiest most reliable installation ). I’m good enough with PVC pipe cutting and installation but never have tried a T. Is there an online source already built?

4. Timer

missing anything?

Thanks
 
Hi Derb,

I'm wondering why you think you need a 120 volt Stenner. Ultimately I went with a 120 volt rola-chem, but that was just because that was available at the moment, had I investigated more I'd probably go with a Stenner. Anyway, I'm guessing your pump is wired for 240 volt, and if so you could just wire this Stenner to the same circuit if you go with a 240 volt Stenner.

On your 3. injection T. I'm pretty sure the Stenner connection to the piping is 1/2" NPT, and it's looks like you have 1-1/2" PVC (could be 2", hard to tell from the picture). But if you have 1-1/2" PVC this fitting from Lowe's is perfect:
Item # 317754 Model # 402209RMC
LASCO PVC Sch 40 Tee

It's a 1-1/2" Tee where the "T" is threaded 1/2" NPT.
 

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Thanks Backyard. Yeah that was the one I was looking at. Thanks for keeping me straight on the GPD and Volts!

I think your thoughts are correct. Gives me the most options. As you can see in the pictures my setup is built like a large rectangle. I have a really big open area right in the middle next to the SWG. I believe it’s the perfect spot. Hard to tell in the pictures but it also never really gets sun due to the many trees in that area.

Here is the list.

1. Stenner and pump

2. back flow valve

3. injection T. ( any suggestions on the easiest most reliable installation ). I’m good enough with PVC pipe cutting and installation but never have tried a T. Is there an online source already built?

4. Timer

missing anything?

Thanks

2. Consider a Flow-Vis if that’s in the budget

I just home depot’d the pvc fittings. Standard T fitting, slip to threaded reducer bushing. I ended up having to do threaded to threaded reducer inside of that first bushing reducer because the 2” inch bushing (I have 2” inch pad pipe) did not reduce down to the quill size in one step.

I figured having that 2nd threaded to threaded bushing made it less of a hassle to replace worn out threads from inserting and removing injector quills. (At least that’s what I told my OCD brain to make me feel better).

I would also get some “lube tube” or other pipe sealant or tape for the threads. I had some leakage before adding that.

120V is mainly for timer convenience. I imagine they make 220V timers as well, so I guess you could go either way.
 
I just home depot’d the pvc fittings. Standard T fitting, slip to threaded reducer bushing. I ended up having to do threaded to threaded reducer inside of that first bushing reducer because the 2” inch bushing (I have 2” inch pad pipe) did not reduce down to the quill size in one step.

I figured having that 2nd threaded to threaded bushing made it less of a hassle to replace worn out threads from inserting and removing injector quills. (At least that’s what I told my OCD brain to make me feel better).

I like this idea. I think when I installed mine I just was looking for something that would work and ended up with a PVC glue-in adapter from whatever was on the PVC Tee to a 1/2" NPT. I guess if those NPT threads strip out, I'll have extra work to do but that shouldn't happen anytime soon.
 
So the 1/2 NPT from Stenner is a screw in thread? I just need to find the double reducer and use some good thread dope is that correct?
 
One last question. I do have an outdoor 110V plug hanging on the post. Any suggestions for a good digital timer and weather proof box I can hang on the post and use the existing plug?
 

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