While you are waiting on the test kit, I'll re-cap a few things you noted so you can keep a watchful eye:
- You really want to get that pH down to the mid 7s. The higher it goes over 7.8 the more you subject the plaster to scale. The pH test is typically a drop-based test (5 red drops) so it's one of the more common ones performed. Definitely keep muriatic acid handy, preferably the 31.5% strength for better value a potency. Also, are you running those bubblers all the time? If so, bubblers, spillovers, fountains, etc all increase pH due to aeration. So if they are on, turn them off unless you are actually using them.
- Until your new test kit arrives, be very careful about adding anymore stabilizer (CYA). If you don't know how much (if any) the installer added, you'll be guessing a bit. The CYA is extremely important so that you know what your FC level should be when looking at the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. That's how you keep algae away by balancing those two items. The pool store often gets that test wrong either through rushing the test or improper (incandescent) lighting. One of the recommended test kits helps with this one specifically.
- Also remember that the inline chlorinator (with tabs) is fine for short term use, but each tablet increase your CYA because they are packed with stabilizer. At some point, you'll have to stop using tabs/pucks and use regular liquid chlorine (or regular bleach - same thing) which do not have those side effects. Not sure if you have an HEB nearby, but if so, grab some of their regular Bravo bleach. Cheap and easy to use to maintain your FC level.
- Test strips are nicknamed "guess strips". They really don't help. The TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C will serve your new investment well. I recommend the TF-100. It's packed with Taylor reagents and other items to make testing, easy, accurate, and dare I say almost fun if you also get the magnetic speedstir. You'll see why.
- Practice using the
PoolMath tool. It does the work for you once you input info. Practice now so your eyes get used to its looks and how each row is used.
So re-cap ... test kit should be high on the priority list. TFTestkits.net (TF-100 link below) ships very fast. The TF-100 and speedstir are what you need. Get that pH down to the mid 7s. Once your kit arrives, run all your tests and let us know if you have questions. Be particular careful with the CYA test as it determines how high your FC level should be. I like to say it like this:
Sanitation = FC & CYA
Scale/acidity control = PH, TA, & CH
Let us know if you have questions.
