Water chemistry levels baffling me

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AStevens

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Dec 3, 2017
61
Surrey
Hey all, been trying to bump my slightly low pH up for awhile to no avail.

my TA is 40
pH is 7.2
Chlorine is ok-spa according to the dip stick, but the levels that baffle me are my Bromine levels are normal to high? Even though they were low months ago....I also dont use Bromine, just Chlorine pucks.

1. Should I bump my TA up with sodium bisulhpite then my pH?
2. Should my Chlorine pucks be in my skimmer basket or a floating container?
3. Can I pour powdered pH+ or Alk+ directly into my skimmer with the pump running?
4. Where is the Bromine coming from?

- - - Updated - - -

Also my hardness is non existen, should I add calcium to bump that up?
 

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AStevens said:
Hey all, been trying to bump my slightly low pH up for awhile to no avail.

my TA is 40
pH is 7.2
Chlorine is ok-spa according to the dip stick, but the levels that baffle me are my Bromine levels are normal to high? Even though they were low months ago....I also dont use Bromine, just Chlorine pucks.

1. Should I bump my TA up with sodium bisulhpite then my pH?
2. Should my Chlorine pucks be in my skimmer basket or a floating container?
3. Can I pour powdered pH+ or Alk+ directly into my skimmer with the pump running?
4. Where is the Bromine coming from?

- - - Updated - - -

Also my hardness is non existen, should I add calcium to bump that up?
Click to expand...
Your first problem is with those guess strips. They are worthless for proper pool maintenance.

The only way bromine can be in the water is if it is put in the pool. Have you ever used 'Yellow-Out' or similar 'algae treatment' products?

If you have never used those products, my guess is that the guess strip is simply reacting to the chlorine and giving a bromine reading as well.

You need a proper test kit, and should discontinue the use of those guess strips. How do you maintain your CYA level, that is not even on the strip.

You can raise TA using regular baking soda, no need for fancy pool Alk+. ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Could you please add a signature with your pool info?
 
Read Pool School. It's a wealth of knowledge and will probably answer most of your questions. Then get yourself a proper test kit. This forum lives and dies by accurate test results. Good advice starts with good data, and those strips are not good data.

Best of luck!
 
Like Dom and Sparky said, there's really only three steps toward your full pool water recovery:

1. Order yourself a reliable test kit (see my signature below for comparisons)
2. While your waiting for test kit to arrive, read and re-read and re-read Pool School articles.
3. Post those accurate test results here on TFP and almost immediately get great advice to make your water safe and TFPC clear.
 
Are you dealing with a pool or spa?

Background information is helpful to give an informed answer.

Guys, i think the OP is in England which makes getting the test kits we use a problem. Cut him a break.
 
Sorry guys new to all this.

its a 40x20 in ground, with vinyl liner. Natrural gas heater with a sand filter.

the total alk is now up to low normal.

im baffled why it reads bromine when we only use chlorine.

also it shows zero hardness....although if pH is fine and water wuality is fine does this have any negative side effects?
 
Can you confirm what country you are in? If England, I can give you some places to source a proper test kit.

Don't ponder over the test strip results. They are so inconsistent and inaccurate they are not worth the bother.
 

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OK. In Vancouver, your easiest way to get a proper test kit is to order one and ship it to a mail drop in a US border town near you. Then drive over the border and pick it up.

No idea why a strip shows Bromine. Just another reason not to trust them. No Hardness is nearly impossible unless all you have used is softened water for filling and all make up. With a vinyl liner, CH is not problematic on the low side. Though if below 50-100, you normally get foaming of the water.

Order a TF100 test kit
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.

I also have the SpeedStir. It makes testing much easier.
 
I will order this kit tonight ! Thanks. Only kits I have are only pH and Cl2.

in my area our water source is basically hardness free, so any makeup would generate a no hardness level.

I am just worried if its a problem with my liner and equipment, although I would imagine not if my TA, pH and CL2 is ok?
 
If you have a heater some require a level of calcium in the water for warranty purposes based on old boiler standards.

Otherwise, maintain pH in the 7's and FC based on [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
 
Chlorine and bromine are both halogens, and sit together on the period table.

Those guess strips probably can’t tell the difference between them.
 
Stop using the pucks. They will add CYA to your water. While having CYA is a good thing, those pucks continually add CYA at a somewhat swift pace. Continual use of pucks will land you in a place where you will need to drain a lot of the pool water and refill it. The best source of chlorine for your pool is regular ole bleach (unscented) or what they call "Pool Liquid Chlorine" or "Liquid Pool Shock".

My advice, for right now, is to use either 1 gallon jugs of regular cleaning bleach (should be at or just under $2 per gallon).

Since you (supposedly) have 0 hardness in the water, you can also order a 50 pound bucket of Cal-Hypo. You should be able to find them online for less than $100 USD. That will give your hardness levels a nice boost and it's a very cheap source of chlorine. You just don't want to use that long term either, or it'll add too much hardness.

Bleach or liquid chlorine is just about the only way to chlorinate your pool, other than a salt water generator, that doesn't add something else which will eventually become a problem.


Don't worry about the bromine levels.

Don't waste money on alkalinity + products either. Regular baking soda that is normally about 50 cents per pound will do the trick just fine. It's the same product, except one is in a fancy plastic jug and one is in an orange cardboard box. That and one costs about three or more times as much as the other. Regular baking soda is cheap, and it's the same product.
 
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