Need Assistance: Pool Turning Greenish/Cloudy

Nov 7, 2015
50
Tucson, AZ
Hello,

I need some assistance in getting my pool back to crystal clear blue please. I just returned home from a two week trip and my pool had lots of what appeared to be mustard algae. Someone was supposed to be watching it but it got out of control. The pool has slight green tint and is a little cloudy. The sides of the pool keep on having a build up of yellow/dirt film.

Over the last 3 days, I have added 5 gallons of 12.5% bleach. I also have 12 3" chlorine pucks in the pool (sorry, I know it is not the TFP way). I have been metal brushing the sides of the pool twice a day.

I just tested the water with my TFP kit and got the following results:

FC = 40
CC = 5
Calcium = 5,610
TA = 190
CYA = 200

I am not sure about the accuracy of the Calcium and TA, I will go get these double checked at the local pool store and report back. Yes, I know my CYA is way to high but I plan on doing a full drain in the spring since it is too hot right now, here in Arizona.

Please give me recommendations for getting my clear blue pool back please. See photo below, not super bad but assistance needed.
Thank you.
pool.jpg
 
Update:

I went to the local pool store for water testing and suggestions.

Pool water testing results:

FC = 10
Calcium = 250
CYA = 110
TA = 140
Phosphates = 500 *HIGH*

The pool store tried to sell me on using one of the following options following products:
1) Algae Control OR
2) Yellow Out + Soda Ash OR
3) Perfect Weekly
4) Phos Free

Most of these products are fairly expensive so I hope I don't have to use them. What confuses me is why the slamming process does not eliminate the algree. Perhaps I do need one of these products to assist the bleach slam? Please let me know what you think. Thanks in advance.
 
Reminder - those pucks are adding CYA right now. Please, for your own sake, don't put any more in your pool.

When was the last time you had your FC 10 or less and did a PH test? (according to an FAS-DPD test you performed yourself, and not the pool store) If your PH is out of range, your chlorine, even at nuclear amounts, really isn't going to be as effective as if your PH is 7.2-7.8.

Ultimately, you will end up either doing Reverse Osmosis ($$$) or drain/refill.

If plaster cracking is your concern, how about starting as soon as the pool gets no direct sunlight, draining what you need to (or have time to), then refilling before sunrise?

Or how about on a rainy day? Maybe shade the pool with a tarp? Hose down the walls every 30 minutes?

In addition to filtering to waste, you could also speed things up with a sump/sub pump and/or trash/waste pump. These can be rented by the 4 hour or day at hardware stores, or borrowed from friends/neighbors/coworkers.

Due to the inherent guesswork required to SLAM Process at CYA 200, as much as I'd love to give you my best guess step by step and go on that journey with you, it would be pretty irresponsible for me to do that if you intend to swim in the water. I'm not taking chances with your family's lives.
 
You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.
 
My suggestion would be to get accurate results. How did you test and get 200 for CYA? Significant difference with pool store test. So is it 200 or 110? You had significant difference in all other results too, so unclear as to which is right.
 
In order to get a basic goal for water exchange, please follow step #8 here: https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/220-CYA
then: PoolMath with gallons, CYA now, CYA target, calculate to see how much you'll eventually need to exchange, whether one or a series of exchange sessions.

I wouldn't stand so firm about you getting the CYA down, but the reason I found TFP is because my CYA was over 200 and I was doing everything the pool store said and I still got Black Algae - which you really want to avoid if at all possible. Some unique people may find green algae a little fun to SLAM Process away - but no one ever wishes for black algae. Period. Even with full mastery of TFP guidance, the plain fact is maintaining a CYA 200+ pool is such a massive guesswork job and waste of money compared to exchanging water however possible to lower CYA that it is like anything in life that is uncomfortable, but ultimately worth it - how much time you spend avoiding it instead of doing it is up to you and you alone - but you'll thank yourself once you get it over with.

We can walk you through anything you're unsure about - and in your situation, mknauss's suggestion is perhaps best. We've had mathematicians and scientists compare water exchange tactics countless times - and even had pool owners share their tests with us for CYA/CH/Salt reduction water exchanges. We've seen it all at this point. We got you when you're ready.
 
Update:

What confuses me is why the slamming process does not eliminate the algree. Perhaps I do need one of these products to assist the bleach slam? Please let me know what you think. Thanks in advance.

Done correctly, the SLAM process kills algae and then your filter removes the dead algae. Outside of some extenuating circumstances, there's no need for any other of those "POOL MIRACLE!!" products. Bleach is your friend.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
isipwater - Clearly you are wise enough to know TFPC is the way to go. You joined in 2015, you have a TF-100, and you know high CYA doesn't just go away on its own because you started threads in 2016 and 2017 and 2018 all about high CYA. You have fought this enough. As described above, drain from one end, fill at the other. Get your CYA down. Live the good life. Your plaster will never be dry doing it this way. Whatever the inefficiently compared to some perfect drain/refill doesn't matter if you can avoid three more years of struggle, isn't that true?

For anyone that reads this in the future and doesn't understand why all of us are so steadfast in our encouraging isipwater to start exchanging water as soon as scheduling and logistics allow, please consider this little hypothetical:

Reminder that the SLAM Process process is an aggressive and efficient assault on algae and contaminants - while remaining responsible to the longevity of the pool itself. Another concern with performing a SLAM Process process on a pool with CYA over 100 is the extreme nature of it. For example, let's say you have a CYA 200 pool and you wanted to do something inspired by the shock level and maintain process. Let's pretend you calculated your shock FC to be CYA 200*40% = shock FC 80 and somehow that didn't scare you straight right then and there. So first you would have to let your FC fall under 10 to perform a PH test - which would be way below your best guess minimum FC value of CYA 200*7.5% = min FC 15. Each time you wished to check PH you'd be going 5 or more FC below your min, and even lower below your target, whatever it would be. In any case, you move forward with it. So you close the pool to swimmers since your FC will be too low for your CYA and the water unsafe. You wait however many days it takes for FC to fall under 10. You then test and adjust PH to 7.2. You wait 30 mins and then you're ready to raise your FC from 10 to 80. Thank goodness your pool is only 20,000 or this might get ridiculous. Let's assume that you are lucky and live somewhere that has a pool store/grocery/hardware store that has fresh 10% trade bleach liquid pool chlorine shock, and it's only $3.33/gal. So for your very first addition to hopefully reach your ludicrous goal of FC 80 you slowly pour 1,791 oz (aka 14 freaking gallons) in front of the return facing the deep end. As you spend the better portion of 15 minutes doing this, you do the mental math and realize you're pouring a nickle and a half into the pool each second, totaling You realize that just this one initial dose is at least three times what you would use in an entire week combined if you'd just do the water exchange and move on. Oh well, you know better than the largest pool forum on the internet. Then you brush the pool if the fumes aren't hazardous. I bet at this point you're really looking forward to testing the FC after it circulates for 20-30 minutes, right? Think about all those approximately 160 drops of R-0871, one drop at a time, as you pray you don't lose count and have to start over, having wasted a massive % of the bottle on just one of many tests to come. Hope you ordered the XXXXXXL option! Just kidding! Luckily for you, you remember that TFP taught you the Taylor FAS-DPD test begins to bleach out around 20-25ppm. That means you have to very carefully dilute your pool water test sample 1:4 and multiply the final FC by 5. You know how important it is to be exact in the dilution because since the less precise you are here, the more off your calculated FC will be. So while you wait for the water to circulate so you can verify you reached your goal of 80ppm FC, you remember how corrosive strong bleach solutions can be and wonder what this nearly-nuclear level of bleach will do to your equipment that has surfaces that can rust exposed to the water - especially the internal components. Hopefully the spa, heater, and solar will all make it out of this okay and not fail years before they would have otherwise, and potentially in a way that the warranty wouldn't cover. You snap back in the moment and remember that you need to haul off your empty 14 gallon jugs for disposal/recycle. You look over at your stockpile of 23 more gallon jugs and hope it is enough to complete the process, since you bought out all the stores in town and you will have to start using regular bleach, which means even more jugs, and this empty pile of 14 already seems like a lot, and you've only just begun day 1 of who knows how many. You realize that you're frowning as you remember the concerned looks you got when you were buying up the initial load of 37 gallons and how people assumed you had nefarious plans, but they had no proof. Oh well, what's done is done. Back in the moment. Time to get the sample so you can dilute it and run your test ... but wait ... what's going on? It looks like you're hooking up the manual vac so you manually vac to waste/pump down the deep end while adding water in the shallow end! You've seen the light! Oh you're smiling! You're so at peace and excited to get your trouble free pool that you don't even regret the $46 in bleach you already put in because you know it helped you find truth and get on a better path. You are so grateful to TFP that you become a Supporter! You shed a tear of joy over the epiphany that you are living the happy ending to inheriting the high CYA pool, and your redemption story was beautiful.
 
Good news, I slamed my pool with 8 gallons of bleach, did lots of brushing and the pool is back to crystal clear blue! Thanks for all your help. I do have one more question. My FC got to 70 and is coming down. What is the highest amount of FC a pool can have where it is still safe to swim, given my CYA levels. BTW, I will be doing a full drain this fall to correct my CYA. Thanks again.
 
Wow, that's a really high CYA level. Maybe you better not listen to me because i could be wrong. I'll let someone else give you advice on your situation. I'd hate to tell you the wrong thing. Good luck.
Sherry
 
You can safely swim in a pool as long as the FC is above the minimum and at or below SLAM level based on your CYA. You must also be able to see the bottom of the pool in the deep end of the pool.

- - - Updated - - -

FYI -- SLAM level FC is 40% of CYA.

You did not do a SLAM. You added chlorine and the algae has been kept at bay. It will very likely return soon.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.