Possible upgrade

djust

0
Silver Supporter
Jun 22, 2016
89
Edmond, Oklahoma
Hi All
We have been an Intex owner for a few years and getting tired of putting it up and down so looked into a fully buried 16' x 32' Doughboy this year and after getting pricing together for putting it in the right way and all the concrete decking we want, the price was going to be somewhere between 20k and 22k. My PB had no trouble doing what I wanted but also had me consider a true Vinyl lined pool and he explained the benefits over what we were trying to do and what the cost differences were and now we are seriously considering going that route. I have some homework to do but so far this is where we are at.

16' x 32' rectangle, 3' at one end and 55" deep at the other.
The pool will be going up next to my shop so it will be shaded until around 11 probably, they won't dig closer than 2' from the shop footings so the decking will be 6' wide between the pool and the building with a drainage trough halfway between the shop and pool so the grading will be right around the pool and away from the shop wall.

The whole size of the deck will be 30' x 45' with the pool positioned 5' from the north edge 6' from the east edge 8' from the west edge and 8' from the south edge, which should give us plenty of room I think.

Latham, Elite Polymer Pool, concrete bottom Choice of Liner, leaning towards a deep blue liner from Latham 20 mil, 6' x 4' Blue Granite Steps built into the North West Side, Auto Chlorinator, Auto Fill/ Discharge in the deck somewhere by the stairs, Pentair 1.5hp Whisperflo Pump, Pentair Clean X Clear 420 Cartridge Filter, 2 Pentair Globrite Led Lights.

All the Decking is 4" concrete with reinforced rebar Bonded to with the Lights and Pump, the drainage between the shop and pool with be 8" wide with removable lids.

Sitting at 30k for the whole job right now, No cover info yet and I will still need to put up the 4' aluminum fencing around and on top of the deck.

I know he's high on his concrete but I can't separate it out if he's putting up the pool, he does a turn key job, he would even move some of my sprinkler lines that have to move but I have my sprinkler guy coming back to deal with that.

Pump is 220v and I am going to do my own electrical, planning on installing a weather proof box on the back of the shop where my Well Pump power comes out and putting the Pool Pump circuit inside with the outlet for the pool lights which will need a switch then running conduit to the Pool Pump. He will put the pump anywhere within 60' of the Pool.

All the Drainage redone from the back of the shop to the west side of the decking, ground finished out for sod.

I have a sand filter on my pool now and know nothing about pool cartridge filters good or bad, I guess no more back washing but not sure about other pros and cons for that, how often to replace easier or harder to take care of than sand etc.

What do you all think about this setup, never had an in ground pool before, trying to ask all the right questions.
 

Attachments

  • Donnie Just 16 x 32 Elite Polymer Revised 1.jpg
    Donnie Just 16 x 32 Elite Polymer Revised 1.jpg
    31.2 KB · Views: 536
  • Donnie Just 16 x 32 Elite Polymer Revised 2.jpg
    Donnie Just 16 x 32 Elite Polymer Revised 2.jpg
    38.6 KB · Views: 535
  • Donnie Just 16 x 32 Elite Polymer Line Drawing Measurements 1.pdf
    13 KB · Views: 1
That looks like a great design. Where are you located. How are your electric rates?

I would go with a variable speed pump so you can control your run time more. I’ve only ever had cartridge filters but in Texas you don’t close the pool in the winter and the only thing I’ve done is open up the filter housing and ran a hose through them once a year.

Do you think you’ll ever want a heater? If so consider the gas plumbing or upgraded electric box to support it in the future.

With that nice shop roof solar could be a nice install down the road instead of a heater.

If you think you can do the concrete for less try and negotiate a little. Never hurts to ask.
 
The difference between a variable speed pump and single speed really is remarkable. Our situations are different as we don't close in TX, but my electric bill in the winter (primarily pool pump and lights/tech, no heat) was under $40 consistently. That's running the pump for 2hrs at a "high" speed and about 4hrs at a low speed. HUGE difference from when I was running the single speed pump, and I'm running it for longer.
 
Welcome! Question for you...

You said you're tired of taking your Intex down every year. Why do you? I also live in Edmond OK, and I always just covered mine and left it up year round. I think it's easier on them. I got 4 years out of my last one and it was still okay when I sold the house and gave it away.
 
Pictures of where it will be going on the west side of the shop, full deck pad will be the same length as the concrete for the shop 45' and 26' wide.

Second PB shot me a price of same pool design quite a bit less concrete for more money since I am out of city limits the first guy is willing to do some plumping connections and conduit for all the pool light wiring hooked up to the transformer second one won't.

Waiting on a reference list from the first PB and a few customers to talk to.


Never thought about just leaving the intex up year around but right now I don't have a complete fence around the yard anymore, the new pool will have aluminum fencing around the pool on the deck.

- - - Updated - - -

Anymore thoughts on sand vs cartridge filters, he quoted out a cartridge filter, or anyone with experience with Latham's Elite Polymer Pools ?

- - - Updated - - -

We have changed the design a little due to cost and shifted the pool 1' closer to the north edge so that makes the deck 4' wide and moved the steps to the south end of the pool so we could take 4' of concrete decking off the west edge saving about $1200.00
 

Attachments

  • pool3.jpg
    pool3.jpg
    22.1 KB · Views: 442
  • pool.jpg
    pool.jpg
    8.6 KB · Views: 439

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I've had both sand and cartridge filters, and I vastly prefer sand. I loathe rinsing cartridges, even though I only do it twice per year. I have cartridges now and intend to switch back to sand at some point.

I honestly don't notice my water looking any better with cartridges, and the water lost to backwashing doesn't really concern me.
 
Signed the contract for a new hole in the ground last weekend.


I have a question for anyone that can answer, I am going to have an Easy Touch 4 Panel, with an IC40 SWCG and a Whisper Flow 1.5 hp pump and 2 glo brite led lights with a 100 watt transformer. The panel info says it has 125 amp capability but obviously I won't need anywhere near that kind of power so how big of a GFCI breaker should I put in my shop electrical panel ?

The most a 100 watt transformer could draw with 120 volt supply is less than an amp, the pump motor maybe 5 amps not sure about the IC40.

Anyone have something similar that could give me an idea of how big a GFCI breaker to buy, I'm thinking no more than 30 or 40 amps, and even that would be overkill.

I tried looking some of it up but its not easy finding the current draw of those 3 things.

I already have an all weather outlet on the side of my shop where the pool is going to run the vacuum or anything else I need.

Thanks
 
d,

I would not put a GFCI breaker in the main panel... I would put a 20 amp GFCI for the pump in the EasyTouch and then add a 15 amp GFCI outlet in the knockout in the side of the ET. This GFCI outlet will provide protected power for the pool light as well as being a GFCI outlet for anything you might need to plug in.

Keep in mind you do not determine the size of a Breaker (GFCI or not) baised on what the expected current draw is... you must base it on the wire size. The breaker protects the wires not the equipment.

In most cases, the electrician who runs the wires and installs the ET, will also install the correct circuit breakers. A 30 amp circuit should be plenty for an ET, SWCG, and pump...

I really, really, recommend that you do not get a single speed pump... With a SWCG, you need a 2-speed or VS pump... If you pick a 2-speed pump, the ET will need a special 2-speed relay...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Thanks a lot Kim and Jim, I did find that the Easy Touch calls for a minimum of 40 amp breaker to feed it, I understand the breaker is there to protect the wires I wired my shop myself but since the panel will be mounted on the outside of my shop it will be in the weather and the GFCI in my shop panel will then protect everything downstream. I don't need the outlet outside on the panel I don't think because as I understand it the step down transformer for the lights will hook up inside the panel so I can control the colors and patterns of the light output with the panel controller, just like it will control the timing of the pump and the SWCG. I need to read up on the panel some more to find out what all it will do and how it does it.
I already have a GFCI outlet outside on the shop wall for the pool I have now.
We will probably be lucky to have the pool open from Middle of May till the middle or maybe end of September so the pump is not that much of a concern, if it ends up costing to much to run for 4 or 5 months out of the year then later on I will change it out.
We are probably still 5 to 6 weeks from kicking off the project but looking forward to sharing the progress when it starts.
Thanks again for the advice.
Donnie
 
Update.
PB is coming by Thursday for a final go over, the pool kit is going to be ordered next Monday so we should break ground before the end of the month.
I have changed a few things, we added a sidewalk from the Pergola to the pool deck to tie it all into the house. I changed the Whisperflo pump out to a variable speed pump per TFP recommendation.
I have power ran outside the shop to a Junction box below where the Easy Touch Panel will be mounted, next to the equipment pad.
I need to drive a ground rod in the ground for bonding purposes, thinking about driving it in the ground where the pad will be so it will be in the equipment pad, I'll see what the PB says.
Loop Loc cover and fencing will come after the pool is complete.
Should be done about the time to close it for the winter, but glad the decking will be poured in cooler weather in September.
I still have few questions for the PB, wondering if I need handrail for the stairs or not and going to see if he will run electrical conduit in with the plumbing to have power on the west side of the decking for lighting or whatever the future brings.
It's a pretty simple pool, about as simple as we could get it so hopefully we will only have minor hiccups along the way.
I think I am going to get some help and rent a sod cutter to roll up most of the sod so I can put it back down after final grading.
 
I know they are different and everything needed to be bonded together rebar, pump, maybe SWCG etc and I was thinking it all needed to be tied together at a ground rod point but after reading your link I see that I was wrong about the ground rod, they just all need to be tied together some how.
Thanks
Need to research how they are usually tied together maybe all the copper wires tied together in a clamp I'm not sure about that.
I think even the Easy Touch Panel has bonding lugs on it, but the ground for the Easy Touch Panel is coming from my shop panel which is tied to a ground rod.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.