Anyone have trouble with really high levels of stabilizer in intheswim chlorine tabs?
In the Swim Chlorine Tabs
- Thread starter jland47
- Start date
Doesn't really matter the brand of chlorine tablets, if they are made with trichlor then they will raise your CYA. For every 10 ppm of FC you introduce with trichlor it will add 6 ppm CYA to the water.
DeanP66
0
That's why TFP only recommends liquid chlorine (bleach) and SWGs as methods to chlorinate your pool. They don't introduce any additional cya into your pool with each dosage like tablets do. In fact, all solid forms of chlorine (tablets, powdered shock, granules) add either cya or calcium to the water. Avoid them whenever possible, or save the tabs for when you are on a long vacation and can't add any liquid chlorine to your pool. They will do nicely in a pinch, but they are not a long term chlorinating solution unless you want to drain your pool every year.
I know of most everyone on this forum has done a DIY if they have an automated liquid chlorine system but, if I were to pay someone to do it, what do you think would be a reasonable price? $3k?
cfherrman
TFP Guide
3k is more swg territory I would think
There is liquid clorine injection brands but I can't think of any off hand, should be less than 3k
$200 pump
$50 tank
$20 lines
$50 he labor, 30 mins lol
There is liquid clorine injection brands but I can't think of any off hand, should be less than 3k
$200 pump
$50 tank
$20 lines
$50 he labor, 30 mins lol
spoonman
Well-known member
Stenner pumps are closer to $400. I’d think 1-2 hours of labor if the person isn’t familiar with these systems or needs to cut pvc. Budget $100-250 assuming no electrical work.
Just did 2 stenner pumps one for acid and one for chlorine. 245 bucks each on amazon. For the constant speed 17 gallon a day version. Blue 15gallon chemical container was like 40 bucks each. Only took an hour or so to install it was pretty easy. So I think the previous price is a little high unless you use the stenner tank too. I’m not sure why that tank is so expensive. Here is a link to my build.
Automated Pool Controller - Projects Stories - SmartThings Community
The chemical addition part of it is recent so it’s an edit at the end of the main post or it’s also currently right now the last comment or #65. I run the pumps from relays from a particle photon arduino device.
Automated Pool Controller - Projects Stories - SmartThings Community
The chemical addition part of it is recent so it’s an edit at the end of the main post or it’s also currently right now the last comment or #65. I run the pumps from relays from a particle photon arduino device.
Well since we went off a little, I went to our local city water park to see their system they are using (thinking it would be liquid chlorine). They are using pucks with a hayward cat2000 ph/orp system with the acid being injected with a stenner pump, they have a lazy river connected to a pool, I'm guessing total 200,000 gal capacity. Wouldn't the use of that many pucks cause them high CYA? After that I called a local pool builder and he said liquid chlorine is just not popular around here, ???. I told him my last CYA reading was 140ish and he said that was acceptable and usually what they try to keep their pools around. This contradicts what the local "pool store " told me, they said my CYA needs to be between 30-100.
I am just searching for answers why I seem to have to drain some of the pool every year after I start to add chemicals. Pool was crystal clear blue light usage then I added akl up - shock- algecide and bam cloudy green tint and CYA went from 30 to 140.
I am just searching for answers why I seem to have to drain some of the pool every year after I start to add chemicals. Pool was crystal clear blue light usage then I added akl up - shock- algecide and bam cloudy green tint and CYA went from 30 to 140.
If you are looking for the trichlor composition "discussion"/hijack. It is now HERE. jblizzle
- - - Updated - - -
What is this "shock" you are referring to?
Why are you adding algeacide? It is not needed.
You are now seeing why we recommend not taking chemical advice from pools stores and builders.
It might be possible to get away with keeping the water clear in your area if you get enough rain to offset the CYA climb. Now just because it is clear does not necessarily mean that the water has enough FC in it relative to the CYA to keep the water safe.
- - - Updated - - -
What is this "shock" you are referring to?
Why are you adding algeacide? It is not needed.
You are now seeing why we recommend not taking chemical advice from pools stores and builders.
It might be possible to get away with keeping the water clear in your area if you get enough rain to offset the CYA climb. Now just because it is clear does not necessarily mean that the water has enough FC in it relative to the CYA to keep the water safe.
cfherrman
TFP Guide
Lots of pools are unsafe using algaecides, phosfree and copper to keep the green away but the person to person pathogens are growing
Exactly! That public pool that is using tablets just sounds like a recipe for disaster to me.
Refresh hypo- granules shock, yes I read about the disapproval of using algeacide. Yes we get quite a bit of rain which keeps me from having to add city water most of the time. The pool store did tell me they had a lot of reports of our city water having high concentrations of stabilizer in it, I checked it this morning with my test kit and dint show a measurable reading.
If there is more than 0ppm of stabilizer in your tap water, you should contact the EPA as it is not safe to drink.
cfherrman
TFP Guide
I wonder if people were bringing tap water in and getting it tested and showing cya, pool store testing at it's finest
you say that about the public pool, they had bottles and bottles of phos free and algaecide in their shed. Retested water today and it looks like I have CYA about 140 still after I drained and refilled, also got about an inch of rain. Chlorine might be locked out to bc Im getting no readings on FC and CC. I guess my next step has to be drain more and refill? and find a company that has experience with liquid systems to install? kind of stumped now from the pool company response.
cfherrman
TFP Guide
Okay let's start over.
What test kit are you using?
Are you still using tabs?
Why can't you test andpourbleach every day? I work 55-80 hours a week and do it at night, takes 5 mins
What test kit are you using?
Are you still using tabs?
Why can't you test andpourbleach every day? I work 55-80 hours a week and do it at night, takes 5 mins
The Taylor one that is recommended by this site. Yes I am still using tabs, I lowered the setting on the chlorinator now. I am assuming I would have to pour a lot of bleach everyday which is possible just not efficient.
Turning down the chlorinator is not going to help as they are still adding CYA and you may not be adding enough FC.
DeanP66
0
Tablets are self defeating. You add them to add FC. They add some CYA as well. Chlorine gets used up. CYA does NOT. So you add more to replace the lost FC. It's a never ending cycle. It works until your CYA gets so high that it makes managing the pool practically impossible. Liquid chlorine is your friend. There is no cya in it, so once you get your cya level to where you want it, using liquid chlorine will insure that your pool is sanitized properly. When cya levels go up, they require more and more FC to do the same job. Most people don't realize that and continue with their same level of FC dosing. The pool doesn't get what it needs and turns cloudy and eventually green.
You will save yourself a lot of headaches by switching to liquid chlorine.
You will save yourself a lot of headaches by switching to liquid chlorine.
