The pool started green and full of leaves. I believe I have removed most of the leaves. Shocked it 2 days ago with HTH super-shock ( 2lbs) followed by 6 ounces of HTH algicide. Have been running pump non-stop since. Much bluer yesterday but very cloudy. Spent last couple of days reading thepoolforum and pool solutions and found my way here - looking to implement the BBB method of pool management (maybe BBBB with the borates?). Added 1 gallon of 10% bleach yesterday. Before adding the bleach I tested with an HTH 6 way (I have a K-2006 on order) with the following - Chlorine 3 to 5 ppm, Ph 8.2, CYA - no reading, didn't test alk or calcium. Will do so today. I am just wondering what my next steps should be? Add CYA? Lower Ph? Continue adding bleach until it clears? Thanks much. In gratitude for all of the fantastic information I found on Pool forum and here, I have made a bronze donation to trouble free pools. I think I have included all of the necessary info in my signature, but if not please let me know. Thanks, Cory.
New House - Old Pool, trying to get in order
- Thread starter crobinsontjim
- Start date
Hello Cory and welcome to the forum. Going forward please post your test results in the following method (we here at TFP are simple minded folks so this makes it easier on us) 
FC: 3 to 5 you must be using test strips? The K-2006 will help here
CC: This is important for green pools... after the pool is clear you will not need to run this very often if at all
pH: 8.2 - This can be lowered to ~7.6/7.8. Not knowing the TA makes me want to error on side of caution
TA: no reading: K2006 to the rescue
CH: no reading: K2006 to the rescue - might be on the high side with the use of well water
CYA: no reading? Does this mean zero or no test was executed? How has the pool been chlorinated to this point? Use of 3" pucks and your CYA will not be 0
I am not personally familiar with the HTH 6 test kit so will expect others (read experts) to chime in.
If you want to learn the TFP way step 1 is to stop going to the pool store and no more super-shock or algicides. These can do more harm than good by adding metals (typically copper) and/or CH/CYA.
Once you have your K-2006 you will be able to provide us the numbers and we can provide you a plan of action. Continue using pool chlorine or bleach (plain) until you get your kit. If the water turned green you have algae and will need to execute a SLAM. We need to understand your CYA # to ensure you can do a SLAM without the need for 100 gallons of bleach..... LOL If CYA is above ~60 you will likely need to do a partial drain/refill.
The good news is you have found TFP the perfect place for DIY'ers. We can and will help you to have the clearest most troublefree pool in the area.
FC: 3 to 5 you must be using test strips? The K-2006 will help here
CC: This is important for green pools... after the pool is clear you will not need to run this very often if at all
pH: 8.2 - This can be lowered to ~7.6/7.8. Not knowing the TA makes me want to error on side of caution
TA: no reading: K2006 to the rescue
CH: no reading: K2006 to the rescue - might be on the high side with the use of well water
CYA: no reading? Does this mean zero or no test was executed? How has the pool been chlorinated to this point? Use of 3" pucks and your CYA will not be 0
I am not personally familiar with the HTH 6 test kit so will expect others (read experts) to chime in.
If you want to learn the TFP way step 1 is to stop going to the pool store and no more super-shock or algicides. These can do more harm than good by adding metals (typically copper) and/or CH/CYA.
Once you have your K-2006 you will be able to provide us the numbers and we can provide you a plan of action. Continue using pool chlorine or bleach (plain) until you get your kit. If the water turned green you have algae and will need to execute a SLAM. We need to understand your CYA # to ensure you can do a SLAM without the need for 100 gallons of bleach..... LOL If CYA is above ~60 you will likely need to do a partial drain/refill.
The good news is you have found TFP the perfect place for DIY'ers. We can and will help you to have the clearest most troublefree pool in the area.
Based on the test there is no CYA in the pool. The pool has an inline chlorinator (Pentair Model 320), but I don't know if the previous homeowner used it. They mentioned buying chlorine at Sam's. One other thing I forgot to mention is that my pressure gauge is broken. Also on order should have the kit and gauge tomorrow. How often should I backwash the filter, given that I don't have a gauge to tell? Chlorine of 3 to 5 is based on my imprecise reading of the OTO test.
DeanP66
0
Don't trust that HTH test. Wait for the Taylor K2006. Those tests are trustworthy. Most people that don't know any better use those chlorine tablets, so I would bet that you have some CYA in your pool. Once you get the test kit, run all the tests. Everything will depend on the CYA and CH tests. Those are the two tests that will determine whether you need to do at least a partial drain and refill. As far as the filter, you should backwash when your pressure gauge increases by 25%.
You definitely need to do a SLAM, but you should definitely drop the pH to 7.2 with muriatic acid before you start the SLAM. The chlorine is more effective in that range. The SLAM is not a one time shock but a process of bringing your FC up to shock levels (for your CYA) and maintaining it there with frequent additions of bleach or liquid chlorine. The more often you check it and retop it up, the faster the SLAM will go.
You definitely need to do a SLAM, but you should definitely drop the pH to 7.2 with muriatic acid before you start the SLAM. The chlorine is more effective in that range. The SLAM is not a one time shock but a process of bringing your FC up to shock levels (for your CYA) and maintaining it there with frequent additions of bleach or liquid chlorine. The more often you check it and retop it up, the faster the SLAM will go.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 49,316
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Cory, I would also like to welcome you to the forum. 
Paul & Dean have given you some good advice already. The only thing I would say right now is wait for your kit to arrive. Everything hinges on those K-2006 test results - you'll see. If the CYA is too high and requires a partial water exchange, we don't want you to toss a bunch of chemicals in the pool just to get washed out tomorrow. We pride ourselves on accuracy and being frugal with our pennies. AT most right now, since we know your water is green from leaves and algae, and based on your size pool, you can simply add one full gallon of regular bleach to the water tonight if you wish. It won't clear the water or be even close to the required SLAM FC number, but it might just slow things down slightly until the kit gets here. Once your kit (and gauge) arrive, post your numbers and we'll help you from there. Make sure you have some Teflon tape handy for those gauge threads when it arrives. We're looking forward to help you.
By the way, this is a good time to thank you Cory for being a TFP supporter.
Paul & Dean, if you haven't heard it already - thank you both as well. We're all here because we enjoy helping others, and your support allows us to do just that. Cory, we'll be watching for your test results. In the meantime, make sure to read-up on the SLAM page (link below) and save/bookmark those other links below too. You'll use them as you manage your TFP water. Have a great evening.
Paul & Dean have given you some good advice already. The only thing I would say right now is wait for your kit to arrive. Everything hinges on those K-2006 test results - you'll see. If the CYA is too high and requires a partial water exchange, we don't want you to toss a bunch of chemicals in the pool just to get washed out tomorrow. We pride ourselves on accuracy and being frugal with our pennies. AT most right now, since we know your water is green from leaves and algae, and based on your size pool, you can simply add one full gallon of regular bleach to the water tonight if you wish. It won't clear the water or be even close to the required SLAM FC number, but it might just slow things down slightly until the kit gets here. Once your kit (and gauge) arrive, post your numbers and we'll help you from there. Make sure you have some Teflon tape handy for those gauge threads when it arrives. We're looking forward to help you.By the way, this is a good time to thank you Cory for being a TFP supporter.
Paul & Dean, if you haven't heard it already - thank you both as well. We're all here because we enjoy helping others, and your support allows us to do just that. Cory, we'll be watching for your test results. In the meantime, make sure to read-up on the SLAM page (link below) and save/bookmark those other links below too. You'll use them as you manage your TFP water. Have a great evening.Thanks for all of the help. I tested yesterday, and the Ph had come down to 7.6ish (Had to add a few inches of water as the level was dipping below the skimmer). Chlorine was almost non-existent (which leads me to believe that I have little to no CYA, reasonable assumption??(still won't act on until I have a good test result)) Added 3 gallons of bleach (10%), waited a couple of hours and retested. Chlorine was above 5 ppm. The test and pressure gauge should arrive today. Once I get a chance to test, I will post results (all results in the requested format.
One other thing, I have read to add the bleach slowly. How slow is slow, and why? Purely safety reasons? Or is there some other reason? First time, I spread bleach out around the pool. Last time I poured (what I thought was slowly) the bleach in front of the skimmer.
. One other thing, I have read to add the bleach slowly. How slow is slow, and why? Purely safety reasons? Or is there some other reason? First time, I spread bleach out around the pool. Last time I poured (what I thought was slowly) the bleach in front of the skimmer.
No need to pour it around the pool - you're just risking it splashing and ruining your clothes. "Slowly" just means don't dump it all at once. Most of us kneel next to the pool in front of a water return, lower the bottle very close to the surface of the water, and then gently pour the bleach into the water just above the stream of the return. This will rapidly spread it through the pool. Putting it into the skimmer causes a bolus of very basic liquid to go through your equipment, probably not a very good idea.
HI and welcome! Another thing that will help us help you is to take and share a pic of the pool. Make sure to take it looking down at the steps. You will want to take a pic a day once you start the real SLAM. This will help all of us see the progress.
Kim
Kim
You are already this far along??? NICE! Keep adding chlorine like talked about above so when the test kit gets there you will really be ready!
Kim
Kim
One thing I neglected to mention - we have not moved in yet, I am just trying to get the pool under control before it gets (any more) out of hand. To SLAM the pool, how often do I need to check/add chemicals? Is once a day enough, or does it need to be more frequent?
DeanP66
0
Several times a day at first. The more algae that's in the pool, the more chlorine will get used up quickly. So, the more frequently you add more to get it back to shock level, the faster things will clear up. Pretty soon, the FC will start to hold and you won't have to do it as often. In your case, I'd do it, at minimum, 3 times a day if not 4. That's really the only way to get ahead of it. Otherwise, it will keep growing faster than you can kill it.
Cory,
Your assumption of no FC = no CYA is incorrect. No FC = just that, no Free Chlorine and algae growing freely. The 3 jugs of 10% bleach raised your FC to 22. However, without knowing the CYA it is not possible to tell what your SLAM level should be. Based on the pictures you got a good start on killing the Algae. Nice job. As soon as your kit arrives we can get more precise on helping you out.
Note: The more often you can check and maintain the correct SLAM level FC, the quicker to the end point. 3 to 4 times a day in the first few days is good but if you can only get there in the AM and PM it will work but slower.
Your assumption of no FC = no CYA is incorrect. No FC = just that, no Free Chlorine and algae growing freely. The 3 jugs of 10% bleach raised your FC to 22. However, without knowing the CYA it is not possible to tell what your SLAM level should be. Based on the pictures you got a good start on killing the Algae. Nice job. As soon as your kit arrives we can get more precise on helping you out.
Note: The more often you can check and maintain the correct SLAM level FC, the quicker to the end point. 3 to 4 times a day in the first few days is good but if you can only get there in the AM and PM it will work but slower.
FC 1.5
CC 1.5
PH 7.4
TA 180
CH 80
CYA - NO READING. THE BLACK DOT NEVER DISAPPEARED.
I feel reasonably confident in all the readings except calcium. It was getting dark and the mixture looked to change to purple, but...
Added a gallon of bleach after. So based on what little I think I know I have low FC, reasonable ph, low CYA, high TA. Not sure on calcium. Where should I start?
- - - Updated - - -
Latest pic.
CC 1.5
PH 7.4
TA 180
CH 80
CYA - NO READING. THE BLACK DOT NEVER DISAPPEARED.
I feel reasonably confident in all the readings except calcium. It was getting dark and the mixture looked to change to purple, but...
Added a gallon of bleach after. So based on what little I think I know I have low FC, reasonable ph, low CYA, high TA. Not sure on calcium. Where should I start?
- - - Updated - - -
Latest pic.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,666
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I suggest you add enough CYA powder to reach 30 ppm in your pool volume. Place the CYA powder in a sock and hang in front of a return. Do not let it sit on the side of the pool. Squeeze it a few times to get it to dissolve quicker.
Add enough acid to get to pH of 7.2 Then SLAM Process. Assume your water has the 30 ppm of CYA so your shock level is 12. Test/dose every few hours, as possible. Once your FC holds you can lengthen out that time period.
CH does not matter for a fiberglass pool unless it gets very high. Your TA will need to come down but will manage that once your SLAM is over.
Take care.
Add enough acid to get to pH of 7.2 Then SLAM Process. Assume your water has the 30 ppm of CYA so your shock level is 12. Test/dose every few hours, as possible. Once your FC holds you can lengthen out that time period.
CH does not matter for a fiberglass pool unless it gets very high. Your TA will need to come down but will manage that once your SLAM is over.
Take care.
For the CH test you are looking for a change in color where is Stays changed. It will flash for some of the drops but once it stays changed you call it at that drop.
Make sure you leave the pump running 24/7 while all of this is going on.
Some people use a broom handle or such to tie their CYA socks to. Put some thing heavy on them and let it go! You can squeeze it to help speed it up.
Kim
Make sure you leave the pump running 24/7 while all of this is going on.
Some people use a broom handle or such to tie their CYA socks to. Put some thing heavy on them and let it go! You can squeeze it to help speed it up.
Kim
Thanks for all of the help. So no big danger with CYA even though it is an acid? I'm assuming you wouldn't do something similar with Muriatic acid (i.e. squeeze the sock).
Another question. Can you dump the all of the test results back in the pool, or is that a bad idea? I was rushed for time last night so I didn't get to read through the entire manual that came with the test kit. Will do so today. Should I be wearing gloves/goggles with all or any of the regeants/tritants/testing agents?
Any specific CYA to look for or to avoid? I think I already picked up HTH brand from Wal-Mart.
Another question. Can you dump the all of the test results back in the pool, or is that a bad idea? I was rushed for time last night so I didn't get to read through the entire manual that came with the test kit. Will do so today. Should I be wearing gloves/goggles with all or any of the regeants/tritants/testing agents?
Any specific CYA to look for or to avoid? I think I already picked up HTH brand from Wal-Mart.
CYA-very safe............I walk around in my pool with the sock in my hand and squeeze it until it is gone.
muratic acid=use great care-make sure to wear eye protection and dunk your hand/arm in the water if any does splash on you. Try to make sure the wind will blow the fumes away from your face when you are pouring it. I try to hold my breath.
muratic acid and chlorine-do not play well together. They should be stored away from each other. Most people store the m.a. outside is something like a plastic cabinet. There are some that can be locked if you have kids that might be around. The muratic acid should not be stored by metal as the fumes can cause metal to rust.
You can pour it back in but it is not best practices. Some dump it on the grass but vary where you do so just in case. That is what I do. If it kills a week I don't care LOL
Kim:kim;
muratic acid=use great care-make sure to wear eye protection and dunk your hand/arm in the water if any does splash on you. Try to make sure the wind will blow the fumes away from your face when you are pouring it. I try to hold my breath.
muratic acid and chlorine-do not play well together. They should be stored away from each other. Most people store the m.a. outside is something like a plastic cabinet. There are some that can be locked if you have kids that might be around. The muratic acid should not be stored by metal as the fumes can cause metal to rust.
You can pour it back in but it is not best practices. Some dump it on the grass but vary where you do so just in case. That is what I do. If it kills a week I don't care LOL
Kim:kim;
Ph 7.4
Fc 14.5
CC 2.5
Cya 50
Ta 180
Ca didn't retest
Either pool volume is smaller than estimated or I had cya sitting at 20ish before adding 3lbs or so.
Fc 14.5
CC 2.5
Cya 50
Ta 180
Ca didn't retest
Either pool volume is smaller than estimated or I had cya sitting at 20ish before adding 3lbs or so.
A CYA of 50 is a good thing.
We can dial in your gallons by adjusting the FC levels but my guess is there was some CYA in the water but it was so little (under 30) you could not see it.
Kim
We can dial in your gallons by adjusting the FC levels but my guess is there was some CYA in the water but it was so little (under 30) you could not see it.
Kim