Replacing chlorinator with SWG

MeSue

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 29, 2007
359
Florida
Hi all,

I’ve just moved to a new home with an in ground pool. I’m curious if anyone could give me a general idea about the cost and complexity of replacing the Hayward CL200 chlorinator with a SWG system? Three days dealing with liquid chlorine and I’m already over it. :p I’ve only had an AG pool before and had the AqualTrol there—installation was pretty simple for my hubby on that but this is a whole new beast. I’m attaching pictures of the equipment pad. Would it be a plumbing nightmare? The pool was built in 2005 but the solar panels were added later.
 

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Cool. If it were here, near me in Central CA, I would have suggested she leave that chlorinator, because for a few months out of the year my SWG doesn't work, due to the water temp (in the winter). Not an issue for someone in Florida?
 
Thanks for the feedback!

So what are some of the best SWGs for inground pools? And does it work with the existing timer controls or need its own control panel? (My old one had the control panel included and the pump just plugged into it.)

@Dirk: My old one would stop producing if the water temp went below ~50 degrees but I just figured at that temp there wasn't much need of sanitation.
 
Without automation, any SWCG properly sized for your pool will work. Some must be installed vertically, and if you want to install it horizontally, then you need to consider that.

You do not say what type pump you have. If you have a single/dual speed pump with an external timer you can wire the SWCG through that so that when the pump is on the SWCG is powered on. If you have a VS pump with an internal timer then you would need a timer to wire the SWCG through so that it is only powered on during the scheduled time the pump is supposed to run.

See Compare and Review Saltwater Chlorine Generator Prices and Features for a comparison of SWCG's.

If you are looking at any brand of SWCG, the Circupool SWCG's are well regarded. The SJ40 is simple and should fit your needs.

Take care.
 
Thanks for the feedback!

So what are some of the best SWGs for inground pools? And does it work with the existing timer controls or need its own control panel? (My old one had the control panel included and the pump just plugged into it.)

@Dirk: My old one would stop producing if the water temp went below ~50 degrees but I just figured at that temp there wasn't much need of sanitation.

I’ve had to chlorinate all through this winter, even though the water has been down to 45°. Might be different for other areas of the country...
 
@Dirk: My old one would stop producing if the water temp went below ~50 degrees but I just figured at that temp there wasn't much need of sanitation.

To add to Dirk's point I'm regretting removing my Chlorinator (for SWG). I've been burning an average of 10-15 CYA per month in the summer (with much more splash out) and almost that much in the winter too (not sure why so much). I use a floater sometimes with (leftover) tabs to put some back in, but it would have been much easier if I kept my inline chlorinator. It's also a really nice backup to have. If you can keep it I would.

I have the same size pool and so far my Hayward 40K SWG has been for the most part overkill (which at the time of sale was priced as low as the 15K). But it's better to be oversized than undersized as you can always run the SWG less time (and definitely get a timer).
 
@mknauss that site you linked to (thanks)... they have a price for each CircuPool system and then an upgrade option for the next size for only $20 more. Is that the same as getting the bigger system for much cheaper? Or am I confused?

Our pump is single speed with external timer. I looked over the manual and I think I understand how it all connects now.

Good feedback about keeping the chlorinator as backup.

This might have to wait a bit as we are currently in new house projects/spending overload.
 

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they have a price for each CircuPool system and then an upgrade option for the next size for only $20 more. Is that the same as getting the bigger system for much cheaper? Or am I confused?

Looks like it's a promo so yes you select a system 1 smaller than what you want, select the upgrade and get the next size up for only $20 more, and I agree they made that about as confusing as possible, on the other side the prices are incredible SJ40 $600 or SJ55 for $620 (overkill but might as well get the huge one for that price difference).

"For a limited time, get any cutting-edge CircuPool salt system upgraded to the next larger size for ONLY $20EXAMPLE: You want to receive the RJ45, so you click on the RJ30 and choose the ‘Upgrade to RJ45 +$20’ option. Then you add the item to the cart and get the RJ45 for only $799 (regularly on sale for $979)!Pool people know, oversized systems perform better, last longer, and ultimately save money by reducing pump run times. Not sure what you need or have installation questions? Call 855-552-6070 and speak with a real live person; a salt pool expert, not an order clerk. We know salt systems and we love to help people with their pools! Offer good through midnight 2/21/18."
 
There's a respected member here (cowboycasey) who has circupool, and he prefers to SJ (over the RJ) for its simplicity in a setup similar to yours. SJ40 is a good recommendation.

For me, I like the idea of having a flow switch and diagnostics, so I'd go the RJ-20 (currently on sale for $679) and use the upgrade to get the RJ30 for $699. That's good value for a 1.5 lb/day chlorinator. (SJ40 is 1.7 lbs/day, so more output for same money)

Larger SWG will give you more years, so the small incremental cost results in cheaper chlorine. If you expect to be there 5 years or more, bigger is better, pretty much no matter how big you go.

I also vote to keep the inline chlorinator for winter and vacations.
 
I dug into independent verification, and pentair and hayward have both used NSF testing of output/time. I looked them up on NSF and while the tables are a bit hard to decipher, it appeared that not all models are listed. I also found several other brands there. I didn't do any matching of numbers there to numbers on discountsaltpool or elsewhere. I wasn't able to find any truly independent testing.

Circupool is considered manufacturer rated. We have at least one member with circupool that supports the number for his model. I can support the number for my own, though it's a Zodiac, just mentioning it as support for manufacturer numbers.

It's pretty easy to test. First verify you have no chlorine demand overnight (OCLT) and the pool is clean. Then run your SWG at 100% overnight (after sunset to before sunrise, like a reverse OCLT). See how much the ppm FC rises and backsolve for output/time. If your pool volume estimate is good, it should be close, but probably a bit lower because of blown in / dust settling type of contamination. A still night with no rain is good, and no contamination events or swimming.

I haven't found anything for lifespan, except again TFP member experience, which generally supports the 8,000 to 10,000 hours claimed by manufacturers, provided good water conditions (TFPC pool).
 
Hey everyone,

I’m trying to make a decision about buying a SWG later or now—before this sale is over tomorrow. We have some issues with our (new to us) pool and we’re not sure how critical they are and how soon they will need to be dealt with. So my husband’s main concern is if we add a SWG now and then end up having to drain the pool at the end of this season is it going to kill all the vegetation?

Some of the issues are:
Pitting in the grout of the waterline tile.
A significant crack in the tile at one spot. It has been repaired but needs a better repair. About 18 inches long in a V shape.
Gaps between the coping and tile. Probably can just caulk that...?
Several chipped areas of the pool surface where the raw concrete can be seen.
Crumbling of the pool wall surface. Like grit crumbling off when you run your hands over it.

Pictures of some of the issues can be seen in this other thread I started:
New to inground pool... flurry of questions

The pool is swimmable now as far as temp and chemistry. Given these issues, would you expect a complete drain to be necessary within, say, a year... or could it be several years before a complete overhaul would be necessary?

For the most part it is just the two of us adults, but we have guests now and then and the occasional pool party 2-3 times a year.

Would it be wiser to postpone the SWG installation given these issues?

Thanks for your insight.
 
Sue,

Why do you have to drain your pool on your vegetation? You could always drain to the street, a storm drain, or your sewer.

On the other hand, Circu pool seems to have these sales all the time...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
We’re on acreage so there’s no street, storm drain, etc. close by. But good to know that the sales are frequent.

Sue,

I live cheek to jowl with my neighbors and always forget about the fortunate people that have 'acreage'...

My acreage amount is preceded by many zeros and a decimal point... :p

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Not everybody can drain to the street or sewer. My city doesn't allow it, but OKs dumping it in an open field where it can soak in (and trap the salt in the dirt, I presume). I have a place to dump mine, but I'll bet 90% of the pools here in town dump in the street anyway. I think it's mainly the salt they're worried about. The chlorine can be eliminated before a purge. I guess they don't worry about what else is lurking around in 5 year old pool water!

When they flush the hydrants around here, they pump the water through a filter, then it flows into the gutters. So there is probably something that will trap all of (most of?) the nasties of pool water, but I'm not sure what it is or where to get one... Google time?

Oh, and there's those services that'll clean your pool water of everything, in place, so you don't even need to dump any. But that won't really address why you're emptying your pool...

Off the top of my head, I'd guess that you could effect some or all of the tile repair without draining your pool. Maybe just the top bit to access the tile. You'd have to work carefully, but it could be done. I'd also guess that you'll want something flexible between the tile and coping, but maybe not caulk. The tile and coping are expanding and contracting at different rates, which is what caused that grout to fail. Call these guys, they'll have the right stuff. It sounds like your plaster is nearing end of life, and I don't think it can be effectively repaired, with or without water in your pool. Anything you might pull off would be stop-gap, and probably a losing battle as the rest of it starts to come apart. Is there a way to calculate how much time you have left? Not sure, probably not. TFPC will prolong the inevitable a bit. I think it basically comes down to what you want to live with. As long as the plaster is still water tight and not leaking into the gunite, it's about aesthetics and what you can live with. You can test a pool to see if it's leaking. If not, take some pictures, TFPC religiously, leave it alone for a year, then compare the pic's with how it's actually degrading. Then decide for yourself how long you have left until you can't stand looking at the plaster any longer...

But here's something important to consider. All plaster, to some degree, but more so with older plaster, is subject to blistering when you remove all the water. Especially if you do so for any length of time (like while you're doing repairs elsewhere). Once you remove the weight of the water off the plaster, and we're talking a LOT of weight, you effectively remove what is holding some of your failing plaster in place. A typical result of this phenomenon is plaster bubbles. They'll appear like little bumps, and they'll eventually pop and expose the plaster aggregate. They'll be rough patches, and unsightly as they contrast against the remaining plaster. Oh, and the blistering can continue well after you restore the water, so there's that. (I saw this for myself in my pool, and my water was out of the pool for less than 24 hours.) I'd think twice about emptying your pool before you're ready to replace the plaster. You could easily make it worse.

Like me, you probably bought a pool that was not taken care of as well as it could have been, and you've got a plaster re-do in your future. There's no magic bullet. (I just redid mine after living in the house for 3 years. The plaster was only six years old and an acid wash finished the job and destroyed it.) Look at the bright side, you'll get to pick out a new finish, and maybe new tile, and your pool will look like new!

OH, sorry, the SWG. If you think you're going to replaster soon, like now, then wait. If you're going to stick it out a year or more, put in the SWG. You're only talking the cost of the salt (what, about $75). And you're going to have to solve the dumping issue eventually, that's inevitable at some point, even after you replaster. So enjoy the SWG this summer and figure out the dumping issue when you need to. Heck, pump it across the dirt road, help keep it weed free! (Or look into that filter gizmo.)
 

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