SWG/Chlorinator Help

[tzlj9r]

Hopefully this isn't too much of a newbie question, but I want to make sure my builder is being truthful. Originally we were going to put in a straight chlorine system, but changed our minds to switch to a SWG instead based upon all the recommendations here. Unfortunately, that wasn't communicated to the equipment crew and they installed the chlorine system. We contacted our builder and he said he can switch out to AquaPure SWG, but it would cost us an additional $1,400. Our thought was that some equipment would no longer be needed and could be exchanged for the AquaPure SWG equipment. Our builder said there aren't any credits for the chlorine system we have now because we will still need those parts because the salt system doesn't work when the water temp drops below 57 degrees. Therefore, we still need a chlorinator to provide chlorine during the cooler months.

Is this true?

Appreciate the help!

 

[Nursenini]

Hi there! Congratulations on the pool and getting it Trouble Free from the start!

It is true that the salt cell does not work below a certain temperature. I don't remember when mine signaled it was too cold last year, maybe mid 50's is correct. It's somewhere around there. Then, yes, you need to switch to another form of chlorination, liquid chlorine, aka bleach. How handy for you to have both as inline systems!
I don't know anything about inline liquid chlorinators as I buy gallon jugs of plain bleach from Walmart. If you wanted to save money, maybe you could have him remover the liquid chlorination and switch it with the SWG and tell him you only want one system and that you will manually supplement in the winter. It's your pool, your money, your decision- not his.

 

[mknauss]

Only in Texas do PB's insist on adding an inline Tablet feeder plus the SWCG.

There is no need for the Tablet chlorinator. During the winter you can add liquid chlorine. Typically only need to add a few ppm FC per month. I am sure you do not have to use tablets for that ---

Take care.

 

[Catanzaro]

Is this true?

Yes and No. This one is all up to interpretation. I switched over to an SWG and added a chlorinator as well. SWG's should not be used when water temperatures drops below 60*. You could manually dose the pool or use the chlorinator. The chlorinator is good to have if you need to raise your CYA and possibly lower your PH at the same time.

Looking back, I probably would have not added the extra unit. I believe your PB does not want to cut it out of the system and credit you the funds. If your contract specifically stated this, then the PB has no choice to cut, credit you the money and install an SWG. If nothing is in the contract, then leave the chlorinator there and install the SWG. Make sure there is a flow control after the SWG and before the chlorinator to prevent anything getting back to the salt cell.

 

[Jimrahbe]

tzl,

I assume that your "Chlorinator" is just a tube that holds 3" tabs... It costs next to nothing and I doubt you would get much off, if anything, by having them take it out...

The additional $1,400 is what he is charging you for the salt system.. You need to know exactly what salt system they will be installing. You do not want anything that has the words "Soft" or "Fusion" which have a combination of salt and mineral sanitizers.. As long as all you are getting is a simple Saltwater Chlorine Generator, (SWCG) then you are ok...

It is true that salt systems do not work when the water temperature gets below about 60 degrees. At the same time, not much grows in pool water below 60 degrees. In the winter I just manually add Liquid Chlorine to my pool. For the entire winter it takes about two or three gallons..

Deciding on a SWCG will be the best decision you will ever make... Do not let your PB try to talk you out of it..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[jblizzle]

I am guessing that the chlorinator you are talking about is NOT a liquid chlorine injection system (as mentioned above) and is in fact just a trichlor tablet feeder, correct?

If so, those tablet feeders are dirt cheap (<$100 retail), so I would not expect much if any credit ... especially since they already installed it.

When the water gets that cold ... the chlorine demand is also much lower. So it is easy enough to add a little bleach every few days.

 

[Nursenini]

Ahhh! I did not know the inline chlorination was a tab feeder...

 

[jblizzle]

Ahhh! I did not know the inline chlorination was a tab feeder...

I am not sure I have EVER heard of a builder recommending or installing a liquid chlorine injection system

 

[yann]

Can I quickly jump in?

i don't close the pool in winter and water gets down to 10C, 50F
my swg works fine and chlorinate my pool
of course the low salt light is on due to low temp but there is chlorine generation and my pool is sanitised without any kind of chlorine addition, whether liquid or solid.

Could australian SWGs be different to American ones, due to the fact that few Aussies close in winter?

sorry for high jacking the thread

 

[Nursenini]

I am not sure I have EVER heard of a builder recommending or installing a liquid chlorine injection system

See, Jason, that's why YOU are a Mod! I'll just "Guide" folks to the real grown ups!


seriously though, I thought a Stenner system/pump/thing was for liquid. Do builders NOT install these?

I'll follow along and learn...

 

[Jimrahbe]

Can I quickly jump in?

i don't close the pool in winter and water gets down to 10C, 50F
my swg works fine and chlorinate my pool
of course the low salt light is on due to low temp but there is chlorine generation and my pool is sanitised without any kind of chlorine addition, whether liquid or solid.

Could australian SWGs be different to American ones, due to the fact that few Aussies close in winter?

sorry for high jacking the thread

Technically, my Pentair SWCG is supposed to work down to 52 degrees F.... It even has a light that says "Cold Water, - system off"

I find that it starts acting funning and showing low salt at about 55 or 60 degrees.

I am surprised that yours works, but have no idea if it is an Aussie thing or not. Maybe your cell just does not know if shouldn't work when cold and just works anyway..

Jim R.

 

[tzlj9r]

Wow...I love this site and all of it's members. I posted this before leaving work and by the time I got home I had all sorts of good information waiting for me. Thank you all!

Sounds like asking the builder to remove the chlorinator really doesn't save me anything and I really can use it in conjunction with the SWG in the winter, so I'll just have them leave it.

Thank you all again!

 

[Nursenini]

Wow...I love this site and all of it's members. I posted this before leaving work and by the time I got home I had all sorts of good information waiting for me. Thank you all!

Sounds like asking the builder to remove the chlorinator really doesn't save me anything and I really can use it in conjunction with the SWG in the winter, so I'll just have them leave it.

Thank you all again!

You'll want to avoid using tabs/pucks specifically dichlor and triclor as these will increase your CYA and cause you problems down the road.

 

[jblizzle]

The issue I have is that the swg must be the last piece of equipment before going back to the pool. So that means that you're chlorinator will have to be before the swg. In the winter if you're using the acidic tablets with the swg turned off all of that highly acidic water is going to be going right into your cell and potentially shorten the life of the swg.

 

[Catanzaro]

The issue I have is that the swg must be the last piece of equipment before going back to the pool. So that means that you're chlorinator will have to be before the swg. In the winter if you're using the acidic tablets with the swg turned off all of that highly acidic water is going to be going right into your cell and potentially shorten the life of the swg.

My SWG is right after the heater (travelling vertical), then a 90* and Jandy Check Valve. My chlorinator is on one of the return sides. The check valve was installed before the chlorinator and then the salt cell. Really depends on the plumbing. Hopefully mine was done correctly as it is working fine. I even added tablets in the beginning, to bump up my CYA a little during the conversion. The chlorinator will be useful in the beginning of the season and that is it. In retrospect, I should have avoided it, but had room to install it, and for only cost, I went ahead with it.

 

[peirek]

One last note: Be sure your PB is sizing your SWG for 2-3x your pool volume. 18K gallons x2 = 36K; x3 = 54K

 

[tzlj9r]

The issue I have is that the swg must be the last piece of equipment before going back to the pool. So that means that you're chlorinator will have to be before the swg. In the winter if you're using the acidic tablets with the swg turned off all of that highly acidic water is going to be going right into your cell and potentially shorten the life of the swg.

Thanks...I'll be sure to ask them about this.

- - - Updated - - -

One last note: Be sure your PB is sizing your SWG for 2-3x your pool volume. 18K gallons x2 = 36K; x3 = 54K

They are putting in the Jandy AquaPure PLC1400 which is good up to 40,000 gallons so I'm good here.

 

[mknauss]

Where Frisco? State, province, country?

If in the desert south west, you will be having to run your SWCG nearly 12 hours each day in the summer if you get at 40K cell. That will be OK as you will have a VS pump.

Take care.

 

[tzlj9r]

Where Frisco? State, province, country?

If in the desert south west, you will be having to run your SWCG nearly 12 hours each day in the summer if you get at 40K cell. That will be OK as you will have a VS pump.

Take care.

I guess knowing which state would help...I will update my profile information...by the way it's Frisco, Texas.

 

[mknauss]

OK -- good to know - Texas gets lots of sun and thus just plan to have to run a 40K sized cell for about 12 hours each day at nearly 100% setting. You will want to keep your CYA at the 80 ppm mark during the summer.

Take care.