Pay to close, or DIY?

[gbest]

Every year I shell out $500 to close my inground gunite pool.
All they do is blow out the lines, add anitfreeze to the skimmers and install my plugs in the skimmers and returns.
I prep by lowering the water below the returns, I add my own chemicals and install the winter cover.
The price is going up again, and I think at this point it's a rip off, although they warranty the lines against freeze damage.

Is this something I can do with a good compressor?

 

[JoyfulNoise]

You don't want to use a compressor as high pressure air can damage lines. The professionals use this -

Air Supply Cyclone Pool Line Blower Vac 4128100 | Pool Supply 4 Less

It's like a leaf blower on steroids! If your closing company charges $500, it sounds like you can buy one of those blowers and simply do the job yourself. You want to use RV Antifreeze in the lines, NOT automotive antifreeze.

Do you have a main drain? If so, do they prep that as well?

 

[Catanzaro]

You are in South Boston, and probability is this is why the rates are high. Please explain in detail your pool. This includes location of skimmers, returns, main drains. Also, pictures of your plumbing will help. Closing a pool is a breeze if you have the right equipment. As Matt mentioned, the Cyclone is a must. Total cost is around $300. If you are handy or can find a handy person, purchasing another cover with a few adapters and you can remove air from the equipment pad.

I have 8 returns, 2 skimmers and main drains. Total time to blow air out is about 15 minutes. Another 10 minutes at equipment pad for the pump/filter, MPT Valve, etc. The hardest part may be your cover. This usually takes the longest and is last. The beer for accomplishment is included.

I will send you a link to the modified cover that was created. The ROI is one year.

 

[gbest]

The pool company uses a construction compressor, the kind you see when they are jackhammering the road!
They blow through the closest skimmer to get the lines clear.

My pool has 2 skimmers, 4 wall returns, an outlet for a Polaris cleaner (not being currently used but still plumbed), a main drain and 3 floor returns.
I'm pretty sure they blow out the main drain and then close the Jandy valve off, same with the floor returns.

 

[Catanzaro]

Please take a picture in front of the heater, left of salt cell and right of filter. Also, does your filter have any type of multi-port valve? Or is this a cartridge filter? Do you have unions at the filter and does this come inside each year?

 

[Catanzaro]

The pool company uses a construction compressor, the kind you see when they are jackhammering the road! They blow through the closest skimmer to get the lines clear. My pool has 2 skimmers, 4 wall returns, an outlet for a Polaris cleaner (not being currently used but still plumbed), a main drain and 3 floor returns.
I'm pretty sure they blow out the main drain and then close the Jandy valve off, same with the floor returns.

You can easily create an adapter for the skimmer with the Cyclone. Powerful enough for almost anything. To clear the suction side (Skimmers and Main Drains), close off the return side, either in the pump basket or at the filter. Close off one skimmer and blow air through the system. This will force the MD to bubble for at least 45 seconds to 1 minute and then air lock the system with valve. Shut off quickly, that is the Cyclone. Then clear out of the 2nd skimmer. Now plug the second skimmer to trap air. You may want to use a black plug at first and then a Gizmo.

Open up the return side and start pushing air through the system. Start closing off one return at a time. When you plug the last return, make sure that the Cyclone gets shut down quickly. Then remove any hardware and plugs from the Polaris and filter. Also, remove pressure gauge, etc. The 2 small plugs in the pump basket I leave in. Heard stories that they leak over time. No water ever enters back in.

 

[gbest]

Please take a picture in front of the heater, left of salt cell and right of filter. Also, does your filter have any type of multi-port valve? Or is this a cartridge filter? Do you have unions at the filter and does this come inside each year?

I'll take those pic's later today.
The filter is a cartridge filter, I leave everything except the actual filters outside and connected in the winter.
No multi-port valves other than the 2 in the front.

I could always push air in through the top of the filter, I'll have to see what the opening size is.

 

[Catanzaro]

You could work backwards from the filter and unions with adapters. Remove the unions at the pump for skimmers and MD. Blow air through the filter for the returns, etc. I would take out the cartridges first so air is not restricted.

 

[gbest]

Looks like the fitting on top of the filter is 3/4", is that big enough to adapt to the blower?

 

[Catanzaro]

The thing about the Cyclone is that the power it produces is sheer volume:

From speaking with the manufacturer, the Cyclone produces about 5 psi, and with the resistance of the water, the return jets are at about 90 cfm and main drain about 30 cfm. Under no pressure, the unit produces 130 cfm. The bubbling effect of the main is real powerful.

The Cyclone comes with a 1.5" coupling in where a hose is attached. Your best bet is to hook up the Cyclone to one of the skimmers and push air through the system. Air will travel towards the equipment pad and with the valves, you can direct where you want to go. The only other item is that you purchase another cover, drill a hole through the cover and place the adapter. Keep the cover only for closing. Or if you remove the cover on the basket, you could find an extension or a 90 degree elbow that hooks up to the 1.5" and this will probably work as well. I have seen people who close pools work like this. The elbow can cover the out diameter of the hole and air will push through. Hope this helps!

Please look at thread below on what I did:

Modified Cover for Hayward Super Pump for Closing Swimming Pool

 

[gbest]

What winter chemicals do you suggest, I've always used a Bioguard 24K winter kit and 2 Bioguard winter floaters for white plaster with good results. is this still OK for a salt pool?, this is my first year with a SWG.

 

[Catanzaro]

What winter chemicals do you suggest, I've always used a Bioguard 24K winter kit and 2 Bioguard winter floaters for white plaster with good results. is this still OK for a salt pool?, this is my first year with a SWG.

Most of us here on the forum use Poly-Quat, non foaming, non metallic algaecide. Bring the pool up to shock level a few days before closing. Add algaecide in and mix for 24 hours and then close the pool. There is a lot of information in the closing section of the forum.

 

[gbest]

You could work backwards from the filter and unions with adapters. Remove the unions at the pump for skimmers and MD. Blow air through the filter for the returns, etc. I would take out the cartridges first so air is not restricted.

I've gone ahead and bought the Cyclone, hose and fittings along with a pump cover, so I'm prepared to do this when the time comes.
All together it came to about $380, well below the $540 the pool company wanted to charge this year.
I have to say Pool Supply 4 less .com shipped the parts to me in one day, ordered on Friday, received on Saturday.
I received the ship notification 2 days after receiving the items.

 

[Catanzaro]

I've gone ahead and bought the Cyclone, hose and fittings along with a pump cover, so I'm prepared to do this when the time comes.
All together it came to about $380, well below the $540 the pool company wanted to charge this year.
I have to say Pool Supply 4 less .com shipped the parts to me in one day, ordered on Friday, received on Saturday.
I received the ship notification 2 days after receiving the items.

Will you be modifying the cover? Also, look at this thread I put together.

The concept of closing an inground swimming pool

 

[gbest]

Will you be modifying the cover? Also, look at this thread I put together.

The concept of closing an inground swimming pool

Yes, I ordered the fitting and already have the proper size hole saw.
I did see your closing post, well done!
I just needed the push from you to do this myself, I cringed for the last 15 years when I had to write the check to the pool company, knowing full well I could do it myself with the right tools and a little guidance.

 

[Catanzaro]

I paid the first year to close and that was it. Yes, the first year that I closed the pool, I was definitely nervous. I closed the main drain twice. Try the googles approach and after you plug the returns, stay there for 15 seconds. If there are no air bubbles coming out, you move on to the next return. The skimmers are easy as you are lowering your water and removing the water. The main drain is nothing more than having the right equipment.

If you are really nervous, lower the water below the returns and clear out the lines. You can always fill the water back up over the returns and about 1" below the skimmers, where you need to be. It is always good practice to replace some water yearly with fresh water.

 

[gbest]

Well, I did it.
It was easier than I thought, thanks to the Cyclone blowing out the returns, skimmers and floor drain was fairly simple.
I'm concerned with the 3 floor returns though, I isolated that line and let the blower run for a good 10 minutes, and only the return in the shallow end bubbled, my son braved the 62 degree water and covered the shallow return forcing the mid return to start bubbling, but we never got the deep end return to bubble.
I air locked it, but I am worried about it, hopefully it's deep enough not to freeze.

Thanks to Catanzaro for his guidance.

 

[Catanzaro]

I'm concerned with the 3 floor returns though, I isolated that line and let the blower run for a good 10 minutes, and only the return in the shallow end bubbled, my son braved the 62 degree water and covered the shallow return forcing the mid return to start bubbling, but we never got the deep end return to bubble.

What 3 floor returns? Do you have some sort of paramount floor system?

 

[gbest]

The pool company suggested them because I have a heater, to better circulate the heated water.

 

[Catanzaro]

The pool company suggested them because I have a heater, to better circulate the heated water.

Is this a paramount system? When operating, they pop up one at a time? If so, there is a cylinder that spins inside the unit. My friend has one and we took it apart. One return line comes from the filter and then each one pops up. His is empty and being cut out as not needed.

But in your case, if this is the scenario, you will have to remove the lid and clear the lines from the paramount system with your blower and quickly plug them creating an "air lock". If this is not it, then please explain under normal operation how they work. Thank you.