Haven't added any chlorine in 5-6 weeks...in summer...in Florida!

[desertjedi]

I got this house (and pool) in 2014 and have had an increasingly tough time fighting algae year by year when this early summer things started to get ridiculous. I was adding half a gold jug of chlorine every few days I think...and obviously my CL levels were always too high. But, I was always on the edge of an algae outbreak. I've used polyquat over the years but continually adding that algaecide isn't the answer.

Last year, my CYA level was always reported as 100. The pool store won't report any higher so it could have been higher. I bought that powder that is supposed to "eat" your CYA and it worked. I rang in at 60 CYA and it stayed that way since I added the powder. The pool store is now reporting CYA of 100 but I have my doubts and need to confirm that. But back to my real post...

A colleague told me years ago about the relationship between algae and phosphates. I dabbled a little with it but I just wasn't enthused or confident about it doing much. Well this year, I got the extra strength Phosfree (sp?) product and hammered my pool with it. The pool store confirmed that my phosphate levels were at 200 (acceptable) but I gave it one more treatment to finish the jug.

Not only have I not had a hint of algae, I haven't had to add a drop of liquid chlorine in the last 5-6 weeks. My test kit reports 5 ppm CL and the pool store confirmed that number...and it's dropping extremely slowly. Keep in mind that we just went through the rainy season here too. All my measurements are in acceptable range (though 5ppm CL may be on the high side) according to the pool store and my water is crystal clear.

What do you think is up with this? Is it true that if chlorine has nobody to fight, it hangs around much longer? One would think the sun would burn it away at an appreciable rate in the Florida summer. My pH readings tend to be on the somewhat acid side. I rarely fuss with pH because, for me, it's like a dog chasing its tail. Plus, my pH readings seem to me to be random - sometimes too high, sometimes too low - without me changing a thing. With that kind of inconsistency, I can't be adding acid or borax - see dog metaphor above.

Since all my readings are in range should I simply sit back and enjoy the pool and the cost savings from not buying chlorine? Does all this make sense?

 

[woodyp]

Your chlorine was never fighting with any phosphates in the first place. HOW are you chlorinating your pool? How are YOU testing? Welcome.

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

Sorry, but too much of this is just not within the realm of realism.

What test kit are you using?

Even if there was 0 organic matter in the pool to consume the FC. The sun would be consuming it every day. A normal pool will lose 2-4ppm of FC EVERY day. There is 0 chance that your FC has not dropped in 5-6 weeks.

We also have never seen a veteran member of the forum show that the CYA reducer worked with reliable test data to back it up. I would more suspect that your CYA dropped by 40% from last year due to rain. But, now you say it is back up to 100ppm? How did that happen if you are not adding any? This is why we do not trust pool store testing.

Sorry to sound a bit harsh, but you are claiming to defy the laws of chemistry

 

[pooldv]

Welcome to TFP!

Does all this make sense?

No, it does not. A good test kit will remove all the mystery. I use the TF-100 and I buy mine at TFTestkits.net. It is the best value, more here, Pool School - Test Kits Compared

 

[Donldson]

Just so it doesn't look like moderators are just piling on, I will throw my lot in and say they are correct. Something is wrong with your testing or chlorine is being added in some way that you aren't accounting for. FC lasting that long can happen, but we are talking a pool with water temperatures near freezing. So unless your pool water is currently about 40 degrees then what you think is happening most certainly is not.

We can help you figure that out if you would like. We enjoy a good mystery. Welcome to TFP!

 

[LFrankow]

Hmm the old no food no bugs routine.
I use bleach to do that for me.

 

[Teald024]

Hello and Welcome to TFP!

Could you fill out your signature with your pool and equipment details. This will help us provide advice tailored to your specific pool.

Do you have a salt water pool? Indoor or outdoor? Lots of shade or lots of sun?

How are you testing your water, which kit?

 

[gregsfc]

Since all my readings are in range should I simply sit back and enjoy the pool and the cost savings from not buying chlorine? Does all this make sense?

Absolutely not! I would nearly guarantee that you've got problems lurking, and they will so reveal themselves if you don't pursue the information on here and start maintaining a "trouble-free pool".


Trouble-free pool (TFP) is a much different way to care for and manage pools than traditional pool care. We understand the concepts and methodologies you are referring to such as phosphate removing and magically removing CYA, because we read about it all the time, but we do not prescribe to any of that non sense here at this site and forum. There is a lot of non sense and just plain bad advice that comes from a typical pool store and/or chemical companies who sell products that lead to very high failure rates of swimming pools and spas. You are revealing to us in your post that you've been fed a line of bull. For instance, high phosphates can accelerate algae growth, but do not cause algae growth to start. It is inadequate chlorine levels most-times that allow an algae outbreak to begin. So wouldn't it make much more sense to not let an algae outbreak occur in the first place by keeping a chlorine level at a minimum percentage of your CYA level rather than to try and slow it down via an expensive product. So the concept of phosphate removing is really kind of saying that algae is a fact of life in pool ownership and all one can do is keep beating it back with low phosphates as one of those tools. This is incorrect. We have members here, who started their first pool using TFP methodologies and have never seen algae in their pools and don't even know or care what their phosphate levels are. This is proof that algae does not have to occur with appropriately-maintained chlorine levels, which is taught mostly, only at this site.

TFP methodologies are far superior and far less complicated, but emphasize regular self-testing with a worthwhile test kit; using far fewer and cheaper chemicals to maintain clean / clear pools and to fix pool problems; self knowledge of basic chemistry; regular maintenance methods to prevent problems in the first place; and killing algae and other organics for good when those problems do occur; not just pushing those issues back temporarily, which is the way pool stores and chemical companies prefer that you address issues.

The way to start here at this site is to: (1) Don't leave this site. Stick with us here. Keep posting and reading. You've found the place that will totally change and simplify the way you care for your pool that is much easier, safer, and more effective, and most importantly; it's not a flawed system of pool care like you've been taught so far. You'll find information here much different and is not widely available anywhere else (145,000 members can't be wrong); (2) fix up your signature on the forum so that everyone will know the type and size of your pool and where it is located. The advice we give will vary somewhat based on these factors; (3) Buy a recommended test kit as advised above and get it ordered and on its way ASAP; it's the only way you'll know the true levels of your pool with any kind of accuracy, and the only way we can truly help you; (4) Start reading pool school by clicking on the tab at the top of this screen, because that's the only way we can begin speaking the same language, and so that you understand the difference between all that crazy stuff you may have been advised of in the past and what we teach here; (5) When you get your kit, do a full test and post all the levels in the recommended format shown in a sticky post on the forum, and then armed with your new knowledge and your true levels posted here, we can get you on your way to a trouble-free pool.

Any pool that uses chlorine for sanitizing has to be regularly replenished. What you think is going on with respect to FC not being broken down in your pool is chemically impossible.

We can help you fix the PH swings. They should not be ignored or minimized. We can help you get the PH steadied via TA management and by sticking with only liquid chlorine for regular sanitizing and pretty much nothing else except a couple of basic chemicals to help manage PH and TA if necessary; and just regular brushing and filter/skimmer management. It really is that easy, but you've got to go through the steps listed above for a trouble-free pool of the future.

 

[SpringPool]

I'm a new member to this forum and in our old pool before we moved I was a pool store guy with a basic test kit at home. I could tell PH and FC to 5 and that's it. I trusted the store about once a month and blindly followed their advice. With the pool we just built and lot of reading hear the first think I'll say is read the pool school pages and then read again.

From a purely science stand point FC breaks down. Do you have a salt cell or autochlorinator (pucks)? You may not be adding liquid but something is adding chlorine to your pool daily.

Our new pool is crystal clear now. I've been using the TF-100 test kit and following the pool calculator recommendations since startup.

 

[Demegrad9]

desertjedi, I see your in FL, which store is reporting that you have 100ppm CYA? Someone I know used to go to Pinch-a-Penny closer to Orlando area and they report 100ppm CYA by default without measuring at all. They will do have the standard CYA black dot test but only actually perform the test by specific request. Even if you do the test and get 90-100ppm CYA, you really can't be sure that it isn't actually much much higher without repeating the test using a diluted sample.


So it's hard to say much of anything without getting better test results, i.e. a TF-100 or K-2006, but it's possible you have extremely high CYA and you're getting lucky holding off algae right now with the various products you've used. This is not really a good way to maintain your pool as you've mentioned several battles with algae and pH instability... And yes, that low chlorine loss definitely indicates that something is wrong or weird at the very least.

 

[teharder]

I'm new here but I'm not new to pool management. I think you guys are being a bit rough on the OP. You may well be right but I think a new comer would be better served by speaking from your own experience. I have experienced times of extended periods where I've not had to add chlorine. I just emerged from one.

July 26th, added four gallons of 12.5% as I left for a five day fishing trip. I tested my water everyday since returning from that trip. Finally today I added 1/2 gallon when the fc fell to under 2. That's over 3 weeks. And, see, here's the thing, the water was brand new from the install of a new liner on 7/13/17. Also, there was zero stabilizer added until 8/11/17 when I added 2.5lbs. I added another 2lbs two days ago. This morning; FC 2, PH 7.6, Alk 90, Calcium 190, CYA 45 ( as of today), Temp 74 (Taylor K-2006c). There is 2 boxes of Borax in there (first thing I did with the new water). Now, I live in Minnesota so it's cooler here. But summers have been hot of late.

I believe the key is that my pool is under the shade of a huge and old oak tree throughout the day. I deal with some debris but the pool stays protected from the sun's rays for much of the day. I also have not heated it much so the water temp has been around 74°. It's 80 ° right now, the grandkids are coming tomorrow. There are conditions that allow the chlorine to last longer. Need to find that out from the OP.

Anyway, thanks for letting me join. I was a member at PoolSolutions and learned much of my system from Ben (BBB method). I've been using it for about 15 of the 22 years I've had a pool. The biggest lesson I've learned throughout the decades is to leave the water alone and not micromanage. Rough on the water, rough on the pool, rough on the equipment, rough on the wallet. The water seems to find it's "home" to some degree. Once it does, don't fight it.