Green algae in pool for a week. Went the route of pool dealers for help. All I got was a lighter wallet and lighter green. Added 6 bags of shock, two bottles of liquid CL and a bottle of algicide (BANISH) copper 3.3%. Not much change. FC over 10. Next dealer after water tested got 7 bags of shock and different algicide but still copper. Same no change except water a lighter green, still can not see pool bottom. Brushed sides and bottom 3 times. Filter pressure does not seem to change and stays at 17 pounds. My wife wants to switch to cartridge, like my daughters pool. My test kit (only PH and CL) shows 6.8 PH, dealer (using test strips!) shows 7.2. Going to borrow my daughters test kit, it is huge, and get more results. I use the 3" Clorox Extra Blue 6 in 1 pucks. No algae trouble except last year and this year. Very heavy rain and high heat and BANG! Algae! Thanks so much for your help!
Fantastic site! Never saw it before! Algae is killing me,HELP!
- Thread starter 8borerifle
- Start date
Welcome to TFP.
If you want to eradicate the algae you need to stop throwing the quick fixes- algaecides and shock to get rid of it. In fact these will more than likely be making the situation worse. At this stage you could add a gallon of liquid chlorine or bleach per day to stop the problem from potentially getting worse.
Firstly you want to obtain one of the recommended test kits- either the TF-100 with the XL option or the K2006C. Purchase a Speedstir as well if the budget allows for it.
Secondly read up in Pool School (tab at the top of the screen) and in particular you'll want to read how to SLAM the pool.
We can guide you through but you really need to organise a test kit in the first instance.
If you want to eradicate the algae you need to stop throwing the quick fixes- algaecides and shock to get rid of it. In fact these will more than likely be making the situation worse. At this stage you could add a gallon of liquid chlorine or bleach per day to stop the problem from potentially getting worse.
Firstly you want to obtain one of the recommended test kits- either the TF-100 with the XL option or the K2006C. Purchase a Speedstir as well if the budget allows for it.
Secondly read up in Pool School (tab at the top of the screen) and in particular you'll want to read how to SLAM the pool.
We can guide you through but you really need to organise a test kit in the first instance.
S1ngram
Well-known member
Pool School is a great place to read about how we all manage pools on this site. Look at the top of the screen for the big pool school button. You can start reading just about anywhere, but a SLAM will probably be your first order of business after adjusting your pH and getting your CYA in line.
In order to take advantage of all the great help there is here, it really helps when we all use the same test kit. Check out tftestkits.com. I own the tf-100 test kit and speed stir and recommend both.
In order to take advantage of all the great help there is here, it really helps when we all use the same test kit. Check out tftestkits.com. I own the tf-100 test kit and speed stir and recommend both.
Well here are the results from my new test kit! Ouch!
FC 3
cc .5
PH 7.4
CYA 100
looks like I will be draining over half the water
FC 3
cc .5
PH 7.4
CYA 100
looks like I will be draining over half the water
- May 3, 2014
- 58,678
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Draining will not be a bad thing as you added a significant amount of copper to your water with the algaecides. Draining is the only way to get rid of them.
I also suggest you do the Extended test for CYA -- yours may be well above 100. Pool School - CYA
With a Taylor K2006 kit you have small amounts of the reagents you will need the most. Go to TFTestkits.net and order FAS-DPD refills now.
Take care.
- - - Updated - - -
I also just saw vinyl liner pool. You need to take precautions on draining a liner pool. Never go below 1' of water remaining in the shallow end.
Take care.
I also suggest you do the Extended test for CYA -- yours may be well above 100. Pool School - CYA
With a Taylor K2006 kit you have small amounts of the reagents you will need the most. Go to TFTestkits.net and order FAS-DPD refills now.
Take care.
- - - Updated - - -
I also just saw vinyl liner pool. You need to take precautions on draining a liner pool. Never go below 1' of water remaining in the shallow end.
Take care.
Thanks mknauss! Once I get the pool ok again, I want to go with liquid chlorine or bleach. The pool is 15000 gallons, can you give me how much difference using that instead of the 3" pucks money wise? 12.5% gallon jugs at Lowes runs $3.69.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,678
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Use PoolMath to determine your daily add. At its peak, unless you have a large bather load (especially younger children) you should use at most 4 ppm of FC per day.
Try your hand at PoolMath and let us know what you got.
Take care.
Try your hand at PoolMath and let us know what you got.
Take care.
S1ngram
Well-known member
8borerifle, my pool is larger than yours, but not by much. I use about a quart each day of 10% bleach. I can buy 4, 1 gallon jugs of 10% at a local supply store for $7.99. So, I can dose my pool for 16 days for $8. Some days I need less, like if I've used my solar cover a lot.
Great, that's not bad at all! I've used the 3" pucks for twenty some years. Last year and this year got killed with algae. Near end of swimming season last year so just closed it down. Two of my three daughters put inground pools in this Summer. They all live within 2 miles of me so grand kids will be in their own pools!
Just finished refilling 75% of the pool. here are the new numbers:
FC = 6.5
CC = .5
PH = 7.6
TA = 120
CYA = 60
Pool math shows I need FC = 24 and to add about 2 gallons of 10% liquid shock. Found it at Rural King for $7.99 for 4 gallons.
Water now a medium green.
How is what I am doing look so far. Pump running through sand filter with empty basket.
FC = 6.5
CC = .5
PH = 7.6
TA = 120
CYA = 60
Pool math shows I need FC = 24 and to add about 2 gallons of 10% liquid shock. Found it at Rural King for $7.99 for 4 gallons.
Water now a medium green.
How is what I am doing look so far. Pump running through sand filter with empty basket.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,678
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Before you add the chlorine drop your pH to 7.2. Then SLAM. Best if you can test/dose every couple hours until your FC loss slows down.
Take care.
Take care.
Thanks for your help! Here is test this morning (07/24/17) after a very heavy rain!
FC = 12.5
PH = 8
added 144 oz 10% chlorine
2 pounds of Sodium Bisulfate to lower PH
Brushed sides and bottom of pool
Will be out of town till tomorrow evening so might have to start over!
Water is light green now, replaced 8050 gallons of water yesterday
Pump pressure is still at 17 pounds.
FC = 12.5
PH = 8
added 144 oz 10% chlorine
2 pounds of Sodium Bisulfate to lower PH
Brushed sides and bottom of pool
Will be out of town till tomorrow evening so might have to start over!
Water is light green now, replaced 8050 gallons of water yesterday
Pump pressure is still at 17 pounds.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,678
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
SLAM is a process - so you have to be able to manage it several times a day. So you will restart when you return.
Be sure to Maintain the FC at 40% of your CYA during the SLAM.
Take care.
Be sure to Maintain the FC at 40% of your CYA during the SLAM.
Take care.
Awesome job replacing all that water!
Don't bother testing pH when FC is above 10 since results will be inaccurate(high). Also, I recommend using muriatic acid to lower pH in the future to avoid adding sulfates to your pool.
Thanks again guys! Back from short trip. Added 2 gallons of 10% last night. Here are results this morning. Water still medium/light green.
FC = 17
CC = 1
CYA = 60
will add 134 oz of 10% this morning and test this afternoon again.
FC = 17
CC = 1
CYA = 60
will add 134 oz of 10% this morning and test this afternoon again.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,678
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You are back! So you knew when you left you would need to SLAM again. You do.
As soon as possible get your FC to 24 and test/dose as often as possible until you pass the three criteria shown in the SLAM article.
Take care.
As soon as possible get your FC to 24 and test/dose as often as possible until you pass the three criteria shown in the SLAM article.
Take care.
Here is where I am at now:
FC = 24 at 5:15 PM 7/28/17
at 08:00 AM 7/29/17
FC = 19
CC = 1
CYA = 60
will add 96 oz of 10% chlorine
Sand filter pressure increased 17% over two days
Water very slowly clearing. Brushing sides and sweeping bottom every day. Light green color now. Heavy rain last night (about 1" total rain) How am I doing? Used 17 gallons of chlorine so far.
FC = 24 at 5:15 PM 7/28/17
at 08:00 AM 7/29/17
FC = 19
CC = 1
CYA = 60
will add 96 oz of 10% chlorine
Sand filter pressure increased 17% over two days
Water very slowly clearing. Brushing sides and sweeping bottom every day. Light green color now. Heavy rain last night (about 1" total rain) How am I doing? Used 17 gallons of chlorine so far.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,678
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Looks like it is POP (Pool Owner Patience) time!
Instead of waiting for such a drop in your FC it would be best to test/dose a little more often to keep your FC closer to shock level. It should speed things up.
If it seems to drag on - check your CYA. If it is higher than you have tested, then your shock FC should be higher and that could be why the SLAM is taking longer.
Take care.
Instead of waiting for such a drop in your FC it would be best to test/dose a little more often to keep your FC closer to shock level. It should speed things up.
If it seems to drag on - check your CYA. If it is higher than you have tested, then your shock FC should be higher and that could be why the SLAM is taking longer.
Take care.
Thanks again mknauss! I will test more often! I just received a refill of chemicals from TFTestkits so I can test much more often. I am making progress! I'll be using liquid chlorine from now on. Just went to Rural King and got another 12 gallons at 7.99 for four. Will check my CYA again today. This morning it was 60 again. It seems to be staying at 60.