Hayward h400 issue

[emdoller]

My h400 stopped working this week. I'd like to pull the top off and look for debris. I've read the manual and it's not obvious how to do something as simple as this.

How do I remove the top?

Ed

 

[ps0303]

If you have the older H400, just use a standard screw driver and pry up the front. There are two clips, on eon the front and one on the back that holds the top on.

Are you getting an error message on the display or do you not have a digital display?

 

[emdoller]

Unfortunately my digital display broke last year so I'm flying blind. I figure I'll open it up and look for obvious issues. Two weeks ago it was running and it sounded like it was kicking on and off while heating. Two nights ago it heated from 50f to 75f and stopped working. We have had tons of rain here so I'll have to wait a few days to look at it.

 

[ps0303]

You really need to get the display fixed so you can see the error codes instead of flying blind. It will save you a being headache chasing issues. Plus it could be part of your issue as well since the board it's connected to is the brain of the unit.

 

[emdoller]

There was a break in the rain and I was able to get the top off easily (thanks). The good news is the white hose was broken off the air flow switch. I assume this was the problem.

Before I try it, is there an error code I need to clear? Remove power? Wait?

Thanks for your help!!

 

[ps0303]

Oh you have an IDL2 unit with the blower motor. No codes to clear. When you fix the issue it clears the error.

 

[emdoller]

Thanks. Yes, h400 idl2. Given that it won't fire up, it must be something else. I guess I'll have to buy a new display board to figure out what's going on. I guess tomorrow I'll power cycle it just to see if that helps.

 

[emdoller]

I had a chance to power cycle and that didn't help. I took out the display board a saw a few corroded capacitors. I then looked st the man board and noticed a bunt capacitor. So I can spend $350 to buy both boards and hope that fixes it or buy a new heater for $2000.

I looked at the new heaters from Hayward, specifically the fdn series and the reviews have been poor. If I decide to purchase a new heater, what should I purchase?

Thanks for all the help.

Ed

 

[emdoller]

Decided to buy the boards. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[ps0303]

If you ever decide to buy a new unit, Raypak is a much better unit at this point.

 

[emdoller]

Thanks for the recommendation. I will let you know how this proceeds.

 

[emdoller]

I received the new display board and the new integrated control board. I removed power, and replaced both boards.

I restored power and the display is showing nothing. No lights on at all. I checked the main incoming voltage on the main power board and it's right at 240v.

Not what I wanted to have happen after spending $300 on both.

Any suggestions?

Ed

 

[JamesW]

Check fuses on fuse board.

 

[emdoller]

Thanks. I checked fuses and they are all good. Per the trouble shooting section of the manual, I measured for low voltage from the P5 connection on the fuse board and got nothing. I pulled the P4 connector from the fuse board and checked for 24v and 120v and got nothing. According to the manual, the transformer is bad. Will order one and see if that does it.

Will keep you posted.

Thanks.

 

[emdoller]

I received my new transformer today. I hooked it up and .... nothing. So I went back to my manual and started the debug from the top. I got to the section where it said to check the fuses. Only this time I read that I needed to pull them out to test them. Boy do I feel stupid. One of them was shot. Of course who knows why it blew but I just ordered a set and will try them on Wednesday when I get them. Given I replaced everything but the fuse board, that's the last thing I could be if the fuse blows again... I think ?

 

[JamesW]

Ok, thanks for the update. Hope the fuses fix the problem.

 

[emdoller]

Ok, thanks for the update. Hope the fuses fix the problem.

I received the fuses today. I replaced the FC2 blown 1.5A fuse, hooked up the old transformer and got power to the panel (that's the good news).

To test it, I turned on the spa via the Jandy control panel and then manually used the keypad to put it in spa mode. When I did this, I got an error the keypad that said BD. I checked the board and now FC4 was blown (transformer secondary).

Decided to pull out the old transformer and try the new thinking that may help. Replaced the blown FC4 fuse and the same thing happened. So it's not the transformer.

Looking at the manual for BD code, it says if FC4 is open proceed to "open FC4 section"

It then says to check for faulty ignitor and faulty blower wiring. They looked ok.

It then says to check for resistance of the ignitor and the blower. For the blower it gives number ranges and the measured resistance was within the ranges they gave so it looks like the blower is ok. They did not give numbers for the ignitor... it said Measure resistance across ignitor. If shorted, replace ignitor". I measured 17ohms which is within the 10.9-19.7 ohms i found elsewhere on the internet.


The last thing it says is replace control module. I hope this isn't the control board, as it's new!?!

Ed