I have an aquapure 1400 that is throwing code 120. If I remove the power cable and put it back on the cell it disappears for a bit. I cleaned the cell recently and measured the voltage with the cable off of 11.4 volts. 35.6 volts in both directions when connected to the cell. It is throwing a low salt code with salt at 2400 but I don't believe that is related to the code 120.
Aquapure 1400 Code 120
- Thread starter robl45
- Start date
Verify the salinity level by other means than the controller. If it is low, add salt to raise the salinity.
What is the water temp?
What is the water temp?
120 is low current. That can be from low salt, low water temperature, a bad power cord, cell plates corroded or loose power pins.
Make sure that temp is above 60, salt is 3400, power cord is good and look in the cell at the plates with a good light from both ends to see if the plates are corroded. You have to look really carefully.
If all of those things are good and you're still getting code 120 or 121, you can check for loose prongs by removing the prong sealing plate and feeling if the prongs are secure.
If you get code 123, that usually means that the plates are corroded enough that they have lost contact with the power prongs.
Make sure that temp is above 60, salt is 3400, power cord is good and look in the cell at the plates with a good light from both ends to see if the plates are corroded. You have to look really carefully.
If all of those things are good and you're still getting code 120 or 121, you can check for loose prongs by removing the prong sealing plate and feeling if the prongs are secure.
If you get code 123, that usually means that the plates are corroded enough that they have lost contact with the power prongs.
I thought 120 basically means replace cell? It seemed to go away after I cleaned the flow sensor and the low salt warning went away. Cord appears fine and board and transformer were replaced when I moved in Two years ago.
Once you start getting code 120 or 121, it's usually a good indicator that the cell is failing. However, there can be other reasons for low current as noted above.
If you have checked all of the above things and you still get 120 or 121, then it's likely a failing cell.
If you have checked all of the above things and you still get 120 or 121, then it's likely a failing cell.
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How old is this cell? Typically you can expect to see about 5 years of life from the cell (10,000 hrs.).
I don't know how old it is. The 120 code is back. I'm thinking maybe it's the cord. Is there a definitive test for that?
The cord is more of a visual inspection, look for loose or burnt parts of the cord.
Have you followed the troubleshooting guide, if not do a search for it and follow the flow chart.
Have you followed the troubleshooting guide, if not do a search for it and follow the flow chart.
yup, have two troubleshooting guides, for old and new style cell. I'm thinking maybe the contacts in the cord are bad, so basically just try to look inside the cable. It is producing voltage though on both sides Does that mean the cable can't be bad?
Sounds like the cord is fine, my best guess is the cell is worn out if you eliminated everything but the cord.
I'd replace it with a new cell, power cord, and a new sensor if it is not the latest design of sensor.
I'd replace it with a new cell, power cord, and a new sensor if it is not the latest design of sensor.
The first 2 numbers of the serial number are the year it was made. What does that show?
If you have tried everything and it still won't work, remove the 2 screws holding down the cover plate on the pins and remove the cover plate. Then feel the pins to see if they are loose.
If you have tried everything and it still won't work, remove the 2 screws holding down the cover plate on the pins and remove the cover plate. Then feel the pins to see if they are loose.
It seems to be working now. Chlorine is above 5 but still 120 persists. I'm assuming it's only using 1 side of the cell.