Started the SLAM.....

Jump to latest Follow Reply
thanks for all of the advice, I was able to pick up the "baby" kit as Kim mentioned, my new job has a very odd schedule working on 12 hour shifts, right now I am 3 days on then 2 off then 2 on then 3 off.
I was in a pool store yesterday and saw a pumas stone type block that was advertised as able to scrub algae stains from tile and concrete, does anyone know if this is a viable option for the stains I'm dealing with, yes the pool is concrete and tile.

thanks

Steve H
 
It would be fine unless you went crazy with it, but your normal pool brush twice a day and chlorine at shock level for your CYA will remove the green stains.
Achieve shock level per 'FC / CYA Chart' linked in my signature. Good luck!
 
I would let the SLAM do the work THEN once the active, live algae is dead and gone we will make a move on the "stains". It is my hope that the SLAM with the higher FC will take care of them. One thing at a time.

Can your lady add chlorine to the pool while you are at work? The more you keep the FC at SLAM level the fast your pool will clear.

Kim:kim:
 
hi all, plant was slow today so nearly half of us got the day off, I've not done anything to the pool in the last couple of days, I let it run its course to see where it stands. ran tests wit the new hth liquid 6 way test kit.
here are the results I got

CC >5
PH 7.5
TA 120
TH unknown
CYA 80

Now for the TH test, (tested twice) I took my water sample from elbow deep in the pool added the 5 drops of hardness indicator and mixed the sample first off sample turned a very pale yellow (less yellow than the .5 on the CC test chart) after it sat for a couple minutes it turned a very pale red, on the first test I ran it up to 85 drops with no change and the second test to 120 again with no change. any ideas??? outdated test liquid? baffled:scratch:
 
Ok the pool has been covered up for about a month now with nothing done to the chemicals other than 2 pucks in pool floater and 2 pucks in self chlorinater below are my numbers from the new TF-100 test kit

FC 3.5
CC 0
TA 180
PH 7.2
CH 1250
CYA 50

looks like a couple minor tweaks and aeration will get things to recommended levels. cannot do anything about the CH, water here in LHC, AZ is very hard. still need to test the source water, that's for another day. scooped out all of the leaves and junk, brushed pool bottom, gonna suit up later and get in to do some hand scrubbing. water temp at 78 thanks to heater and sunshine. water is crystal clear.:whoot:

Steve
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
So glad the water is looking clear to you right now...........BUT you just wait until I get through with it! You just THINK it is clear!

I have a couple of "jobs" for you to really get your water looking like TFP water:

-Ch test of fill water when you are able. I know it will be high but not as high as you pool water is now.

-Read this link: Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity It is a process. Push PH up to 7.8 (aeration does this for free! Turn your return eyeballs up so they roll the water good) , use muratic acid to lower it to 7.2. Do this as often as you can to lower the TA to 90. It will take some time but will be worth it to get where you need to go.

-Take the tablets out and start using liquid chlorine. Your CYA is high enough now. If you keep using the tablets your CYA will keep going up.

-Tell us what tablets you have been using. I want to know what they are adding for use. Some add CYA and some add CH. Thinking long term with this request.

-Play with Pool Math https://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html note do NOT put the , in the gallons of your pool. It does not like it for some reason. Look for the part that talks about the CSI. Tell me what YOUR CSI is in your pool. You want the CSI as close to 0.0 as you can get it. This info. will help us tweak your levels.

Kim:kim:
 
Last edited:
kimkats said:
So glad the water is looking clear to you right now...........BUT you just wait until I get through with it! You just THINK it is clear!

I have a couple of "jobs" for you to really get your water looking like TFP water:

-Ch test of fill water when you are able. I know it will be high but not as high as you pool water is now.

-Read this link: Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity It is a process. Push PH up to 7.8 (aeration does this for free! Turn your return eyeballs up so they roll the water good) , use muratic acid to lower it to 7.2. Do this as often as you can to lower the TA to 90. It will take some time but will be worth it to get where you need to go.

-Take the tablets out and start using liquid chlorine. Your CYA is high enough now. If you keep using the tablets your CYA will keep going up.

-Tell us what tablets you have been using. I want to know what they are adding for use. Some add CYA and some add CH. Thinking long term with this request.

-Play with Pool Math https://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html note do NOT put the , in the gallons of your pool. It does not like it for some reason. Look for the part that talks about the CSI. Tell me what YOUR CSI is in your pool. You want the CSI as close to 0.0 as you can get it. This info. will help us tweak your levels.

Kim:kim:
Click to expand...
thanks Kim for the to do list:wink:my honey's list is long, I have read thru the link you provided and am taking the necessary steps to reduce the TA, yes it will take time but that time I have. not much time for pool work tomorrow as there are too many things to do before a couple of 12 hour shifts days at the plant. played with the calculator and it told me CSI was .45 to 0.04 I do not have a grip on how to test my CSI level so I continue to study, any and all help is greatly appreciated.
I am phasing out the pucks and did add the recommended amount of bleach today to bring the FC level to 4, the pucks are the HTH brand from wally world.

Thanks
Steve
 
Getting them out of the feeder could be a pain. How many are in there and are they close to being gone? If you did not just stuff it full with brand new tablets it should be find to let those in there finish dissolving. Just do NOT add or use any more tablets PRETTY PLEASE :slidehalo:

I will play with Pool Math when I have a free moment later. I want to be able to take my time with it as I am not very good at the CSI part with me having a vinyl pool so it is not as important for me. Time for me to learn and you get to help teach me!

Can/will your honey add bleach to the pool in the mornings or early evenings to keep your FC up where it needs to be? Is she willing to learn how to test at least the FC (or even better do all the tests but..........)?

Kim:kim:
 
For your location and pool you are going to want to keep your CSI between -0.3 and +0.3. This will likely become balanced with TA around 60 and pH 7.8. When pH reaches 8.0 add acid to lower it to 7.6. Your CH is going to steadily climb, lower TA to offset it.

More here, Pool School - Calcium Scaling
 
kimkats said:
Getting them out of the feeder could be a pain. How many are in there and are they close to being gone? If you did not just stuff it full with brand new tablets it should be find to let those in there finish dissolving. Just do NOT add or use any more tablets PRETTY PLEASE :slidehalo:

I will play with Pool Math when I have a free moment later. I want to be able to take my time with it as I am not very good at the CSI part with me having a vinyl pool so it is not as important for me. Time for me to learn and you get to help teach me!

Can/will your honey add bleach to the pool in the mornings or early evenings to keep your FC up where it needs to be? Is she willing to learn how to test at least the FC (or even better do all the tests but..........)?

Kim:kim:
Click to expand...
Ok so today has another heater challange, more on that in a minute. I've taken the floater out of the pool and shut off the valve for the feeder, this takes care of the pucks, I have the pump running so the spa flows over into the pool for aeration will run another set of tests this evening.
as for testing, I'll continue to do the testing until I am comfortable with the new test kit AND have a speedstir, after that I will teach my honey how to do the tests and get her linked in to the pool calculator and show her how to use that when I am not around.

Now for the heater, yesterday after cleaning the pool I fired it up and ran it on the pool setting for a while than switched it to the spa, NOW not knowing how all of the valves are to be configured for the spa setting because there were no instructions for the valve setting for the different modes of operation, I have had to learn by trial and error, so has the spa reached 83 degrees the heater lights a E02 service code, hi temp limit code, after several restarts I go to test the the sensors, the 150 degree shows an open circuit, go to test the 115 degree sensor and the tang for the wire connector fell off, so today I bought the 115 degree sensor and installed that, and just a few minutes before I started this post, I once again get the E02 code, restarted heater, will retest the 150 sensor when/if I get the code again, this has been an on going battle to get up and running.
 
ps0303 said:
You probably have a bad flow assembly on the heater thus causing the E02 error. It will cause the Hi Temp sensor to cut out stopping the heater.

Here is a link to the manual for the heater. https://www.parts4heating.com/v/vspfiles/images/pdfs/MiniMaxNTOM.pdf

Page 30 shows you where the flow valve is located.
Click to expand...
That was High on my list of suspects, when I tested it it took more heat than I thought to actuate the valve, it too will be ordered for replacement. As I mentioned in my other post I fully believe that time has degraded the parts and thus are in need of replacement.
 
OK tonight's numbers are as follows,

FC 5.5
CC 0
TA 150
PH 7.5
CYA 70
CH 1250

Good/bad news in these numbers, first the TA has dropped 30 points, but PH went up .3, CYA is questionable as i did the test at the dinner table at night so the lighting is in question as to seeing the black dot.
after these next couple of days of 12 hour shifts I'll be ordering parts and testing the source water to determine the next course of action on the levels needing addressing.

Steve
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply