Testing and start up new pool

miles267

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Sep 5, 2016
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Arkansas
Just bought both a TF-100 and K-1766 salt kit. Pool construction under way. First time pool owner. Started reading Pool School as suggested and am already feeling overwhelmed yet pool won't even be filled until Dec [emoji3] After pool is finished, the initial round of chemicals are included to open the pool. However it will go unused over the winter until late spring when we'll use for first time.

Have any other new pool owners opted to pay someone to maintain their chemicals until they get the hang of it? Am anxious after reading black algae, etc. and don't want to be too inexperienced out of the gates when chemicals are equally critical.

Would appreciate recommendations. Thanks.
 
Never fear! TFP is here! It IS very overwhelming! There is SO much info that you think there is NO way you can remember it all! BUT can and will get into the swing of it in a short amount of time and we will be here to guide you every step of the way.

When you pay someone to maintain you chemicals they come out once a week and add enough stuff to hopefully last until the next week :( That is a good business plan for them but NOT good for the pool especially since you will have new plaster.

Do you have your test kit yet? You can and should test the fill water so you know what you will be dealing with and we can get you all set up. Don't bother testing for CYA as that has to be added so there not be any in the fill water.

I SO understand where you are coming from. I went so far as to buy the test kit BEFORE I even ordered the pool :shock: LOL I wanted to make sure I could do it. I can and it is fun and easy!

Kim:kim:
 
Thanks Kim for the support and optimism. Yes, ordered both test kits already though they'll only start digging tomorrow [emoji3] will be concrete/gunite IGO with Diamondbrite quartz finish. Had planned to fill with a garden hose when it's time. Should I test local hose water already?

Random question - is it generally more economic to fill from a hose? Or call local fire dept w tanker truck? Wasn't sure if ppl did that.
 
Just bought both a TF-100 and K-1766 salt kit. Pool construction under way. First time pool owner. Started reading Pool School as suggested and am already feeling overwhelmed yet pool won't even be filled until Dec [emoji3] After pool is finished, the initial round of chemicals are included to open the pool. However it will go unused over the winter until late spring when we'll use for first time.

Have any other new pool owners opted to pay someone to maintain their chemicals until they get the hang of it? Am anxious after reading black algae, etc. and don't want to be too inexperienced out of the gates when chemicals are equally critical.

Would appreciate recommendations. Thanks.

yes, had a pool service. As soon as I started balancing, pool was clearer than it ever had been, algae issues are gone, and have not returned, and it is now costing me 1/10 or less, although I'm not counting my additional time. Even that is tapering off as my pool is becoming more stable. I DID add automated PH so not exactly a fair comparison, but the payback for that will be about 3 more months.

Mostly, all I do now is make sure I have enough, or more than enough FC, make sure CC is low, make sure my PH is at or near my target. Once a week (and soon it will be every other week), I check my other values.

Pool math is what makes this so simple. It will tell you a lot about how things work by playing with the numbers.

For example, with low CH (my current situation), you can still get into an acceptable CSI range by keeping PH on the higher side.

The other powerful tool you have here are all the experts! They will explain, recommend, and guide you no matter what your level of expertise.

Before you know it you will be helping others with YOUR experiences.
 
Welcome!!! Water price will determine your cost. You should be able to go on website for your water company to check the pricing or call. For my 19,000 gallon pool it cost me about $180 to fill via 3 hoses running simultaneously.
 
Oh, and hose is fine. Only reason to chose otherwise is cost, or if you have any reason to think there are significant metal content. If the fire dept will fill free in your area and you have high water costs, go for it.

Also, take a look at the construction area. There are builds, and people mention their regrets post build. One we saw recently was first fill was done from a skimmer and now plaster is permanently stained.

Post your pool design and many can give you thoughts. For example, make sure your lights are shining away from where you would normally sit.
 
Appreciate the guidance. Yes I was aware of lighting positioning. In fact I've read and continue to read TFP forums exhaustively [emoji3]. Turns out our local water costs thru municipality are relatively affordable. Will ask the FD just to see.

Where is this skimmer fill thread? Can't find it.
 
I have not seen that thread but can tell you why they regret is without seeing it........streaking caused by the water "flowing" out of the skimmer down the sides of the pool. The same thing can happen if you fill the spa first and allow it to overflow :(

Best practice is to lay the hose on the bottom of the pool with a sock or washcloth over the end of it with a plastic bottle attached to it to help it float when the water gets high enough.

See we know all of the neat tricks!

Kim:kim:
 
Kimkats, these tips and tricks are invaluable. They make complete sense yet I wouldn't have known to do that in a million years. Is it sad that I'm actually already looking forward to something as basic as filling the pool? [emoji3]

Also, received my TF-100 test kit, speed stir and K-1766 salt kit today.
 
A pool service isn't really a good idea. I'm a bit over a month in and my pool is still consuming acid at around a half gallon a day (high TA fill water). If I went a week between balancing my PH would be high enough I would almost certainly be building scale and the water would be unswimmable. As it is it takes me about 10 minutes a day to do a quick PH and FC/CC check and add whatever is needful. Hopefully that'll go down to once a week as my PH gets under control.


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Pwrgeek, thanks for sharing. We're building a SWG concrete pool with Diamondbrite. It should be completed and filled in Dec (4-6 wks weather permitting). Are there specific chemicals I should plan to have on hand immediately or that I should ensure the PB provides as part of their included "start up chemicals" in contract? It's not specific.

"Wall brush, leaf skimmer, thermometer, flex vacuum head, test kit and start up chemicals"
 
You are SO far ahead of the game already is not even funny with the test kit and us! I would not buy any chemicals yet. We will get you set up with a shopping list right before your pool is filled with water. If you want do a little light shopping you can go get these items:

-2 cup, plastic measuring cup

-white, plastic plate (this will help with your PH testing)

Ask your PB what brush he is getting you. Will he also include a pole for the brush and leaf skimmer? How about a hose for the vacuum head?

Now to have a little fun ask him what test kit he is providing. We had one last summer that gave a sample set of test strips :shock: for the "test kit"! LOL

Kim:kim:
 
Priceless! PB is including: test kit, thermometer, start up chemicals, 18" wall brush, 18" leaf skimmer, flex vacuum head, vacuum hose, telescoping pole 8-16 ft, 5x9" floats, 3/4" rope anchors and hooks.
 
Check with builder for the warranty on the finish. My quartz company wanted specific water chemistry results (basically staying in CSI guidelines) or warranty was void. So I kept track in poolmath spreadsheet. I was concerned pool builder may close shop and leave my 'lifetime' finish covered by the manufacturer. I asked for copy of warranty in advance, which said I had to mail warranty filing via certified mail in order for it to be effective. Funny, pool builder claimed no one ever asked for that info in advance before.
 
Pwrgeek, thanks for sharing. We're building a SWG concrete pool with Diamondbrite. It should be completed and filled in Dec (4-6 wks weather permitting). Are there specific chemicals I should plan to have on hand immediately or that I should ensure the PB provides as part of their included "start up chemicals" in contract? It's not specific.

"Wall brush, leaf skimmer, thermometer, flex vacuum head, test kit and start up chemicals"

You're on the right track. One thing I've found that is almost invaluable is some of these

Sams Club - Squeeze Bottle - Clear - 12 pk.

I use them to get a sample of pool water for testing as they make it easy to put just the right amount in the sample tubes for each test. As you get closer to fill (30 days out or so) start keeping an eye out when you're at Walmart or the grocery store for bleach that is on sale. You want the plane Jane stuff (no scents or splash less additives) and make sure that it is at least 6% sodium hypochlorite (8.25 is better and 10 is the best I've seen). Anything less than $2.75 a gallon and dates (this time of year) above 200 you should grab it. You'll start out using about half a gallon to a gallon of 6% per 10000 gal of water per day (as a side note you should update your signature with at least your pool size and finish so we can see it) and that will go down over the first month as your CYA comes up. Don't worry it can seem overwhelming (and you can check my thread to see where I was having the same concerns you are as my pool was finishing up construction) but it's really pretty easy once you get a routine down about it.


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So far I've picked up all the items you've suggested including the notebooks.

Pool build nearing completion. Gunite finished. They need to do decking, diamond brite and equipment. Pool will be approx. 22K gal. Upgraded to an IC60 and CCP520 filter and will have EasyTouch automation with ScreenLogic.

Must admit I'm overwhelmed. And don't yet understand Pool Math. Since pool will be filled in Dec. and SWG will be ineffective, should I just ask PB to do their initial startup with liquid chlorine and put the SWG dummy cell in place over the winter? If pool won't be used until next summer, will I have to worry about chemistry over the winter - or can I just let it go until spring?
 
Yes, install the dummy cell for winter and use bleach/liquid chlorine for winter.

Yes, it is very important to manage your water chemistry, especially in the first few months, but all the time really. PH management is the most important aspect of starting up a plaster pool to prevent etching and scaling. It is very important to maintain PH between 7.5 and 7.8 at all times, when it gets to 8.0 lower it back to 7.6. Let it stay at 7.8 if it wants to. Allowing your TA to drop as low as 60 will help to reduce pH rise. Adding acid to lower your PH will slowly lower your TA over time. Avoiding running waterfalls, bubblers, etc will also reduce pH rise in your pool.

More here, Pool School - Calcium Scaling

Also, review this
SGM HomeOwners startup water chemistry

Here is a PoolMath tutorial
Pool School - PoolMath
 
OK. I will ask the PB to startup the pool with liquid chlorine and place the dummy cell from the start. PBs here force a SWG disclaimer/agreement from the start. Not worth risk of PB blaming the SWG for some unrelated issue early on during our warranty either.

We opted for no water features, waterfalls or bubblers so hope it will simplify.

Will defer to our PB to properly apply Diamond Brite finish, fill and balance the chemistry.

Definitely need to study Pool Math as it still makes me a bit anxious. Not sure where to start. All very new to me despite how much I've read.

Thanks again!
 
Do you have your test kit yet? If not go ahead and order it. If yes then run the tesrs except cya on your fill water. I think that will help you fo USE pool math. I will walk you through it as far as what your numbers mean and what you will need to do.

Kim:kim:
 

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