My PB used a 2 part sikaflex that he poured from a bottle with a nozzle. First time last 5ish years, this time less. Our ground moves a lot.
Need to put in a seal. Deck O Seal?
- Thread starter PoolNovce
- Start date
santacruzpool
Gold Supporter
Our ground I think moves a bit as well - during the last two winters we had between 40-50 inches of rain and then we go totally dry for 5-6 months...I think this makes the dirt move a bit as it dries out. Plus there should be some natural settling of a newish pool build that takes some time for all of the parts to figure out where they will sit.
I used the caulking tube version of Sikaflex from Home Depot, not a 2 part system, so mine is most likely not as durable. I might just purchase some Deck-O-Seal this time and see how it compares
I don't think some minor cracks in the seal will cause too much trouble this winter.
I used the caulking tube version of Sikaflex from Home Depot, not a 2 part system, so mine is most likely not as durable. I might just purchase some Deck-O-Seal this time and see how it compares
I don't think some minor cracks in the seal will cause too much trouble this winter.
http://aus.sika.com/en/solutions_products/02/02a025/02a025sa08/02a025sa08100/02a025sa08101.html
For the benefit of others, I found an Australian data sheet file(see above) which seems to have more detail than the US one. Also I saw ontheir UK site specifically for pools they have a product specifically forpools. However that is suggested for inside the pool in water and around thepool the product suggested by folks here is still stated on the site as beingOK. There should be no continuous exposure to chlorine at 5ppm but it seems aslong as it’s not continuous it’s OK is what I concluded.
I am ready to install this weekend, especially today.However, where I live the weather forecast seems to call for rain on Tuesday (3days from now). The labeling says tack free in 1 to 2 hours and full cure in 3to 5 days. Their technical support lineis closed as it operates M to F only. Anyone have any advice from someone who has used this product on if Ishould proceed? The cure time and the possibility of rainfall bothers me. But ifthat is a very conservative estimate on their part maybe I should just go forit? I really need to go this today or won’t have time for at least a month.Should I go for it?
For the benefit of others, I found an Australian data sheet file(see above) which seems to have more detail than the US one. Also I saw ontheir UK site specifically for pools they have a product specifically forpools. However that is suggested for inside the pool in water and around thepool the product suggested by folks here is still stated on the site as beingOK. There should be no continuous exposure to chlorine at 5ppm but it seems aslong as it’s not continuous it’s OK is what I concluded.
I am ready to install this weekend, especially today.However, where I live the weather forecast seems to call for rain on Tuesday (3days from now). The labeling says tack free in 1 to 2 hours and full cure in 3to 5 days. Their technical support lineis closed as it operates M to F only. Anyone have any advice from someone who has used this product on if Ishould proceed? The cure time and the possibility of rainfall bothers me. But ifthat is a very conservative estimate on their part maybe I should just go forit? I really need to go this today or won’t have time for at least a month.Should I go for it?
It will be fine if installed today and it doesn't rain today. The full cure is about stepping on it or allowing other things to touch it that could deform it. It will be rain proof in a few hours.
Thanks! About to get busy.
But before I start, I have a very important question. My understanding as acomplete novice is in pool construction the coping sits above a bond beam whichsits above the rim of the pool shell. Incleaning out the gap (for the side of the pool I wish to seal), I noticed mydeck is level with my pool bond beam rather than the coping. So if I were tolay down the Sikaflex I would actually be sealing a gap between the bond beamand deck and this would be effectively below the coping. There is nothing I cando to raise the deck. Should I proceed and what are the implications? I am lessconcerned with durability than creating problems (and increasing costs) whenthe pool and its deck is renovated in the future.
But before I start, I have a very important question. My understanding as acomplete novice is in pool construction the coping sits above a bond beam whichsits above the rim of the pool shell. Incleaning out the gap (for the side of the pool I wish to seal), I noticed mydeck is level with my pool bond beam rather than the coping. So if I were tolay down the Sikaflex I would actually be sealing a gap between the bond beamand deck and this would be effectively below the coping. There is nothing I cando to raise the deck. Should I proceed and what are the implications? I am lessconcerned with durability than creating problems (and increasing costs) whenthe pool and its deck is renovated in the future.
Last edited:
So, there is a step down from the coping to the deck? That is fine. The purpose of using the mastic there instead of mortar is to allow flexibility so the pool shell can move independently of the deck and to prevent a bunch of water from running under the deck.
http://www.continentalpools.com/images/Coping.gif
It is not an intentional step down by design. Referencing the image I found online as an example, the step down is because the concrete deck has SUNK below the coping on one side. On the other side of my pool, the concrete deck is level with the coping. So I should still proceed?
- - - Updated - - -
Later when the pool is renovated, I expect them to replace the coping so I'm not worried about any mastic between it and the concrete if things were level. I am just concerned about damaging the bond beam by doing this when the two planes are no longer level. I'm actually creating a seal with the wrong plane (bond beam instead of coping) if you know what I mean.
It is not an intentional step down by design. Referencing the image I found online as an example, the step down is because the concrete deck has SUNK below the coping on one side. On the other side of my pool, the concrete deck is level with the coping. So I should still proceed?
- - - Updated - - -
Later when the pool is renovated, I expect them to replace the coping so I'm not worried about any mastic between it and the concrete if things were level. I am just concerned about damaging the bond beam by doing this when the two planes are no longer level. I'm actually creating a seal with the wrong plane (bond beam instead of coping) if you know what I mean.
Yes, I understand. No, it won't create any problems. The coping and the bondbeam are essentially the same for purposes of what the mastic is trying to accomplish. The coping is mounted to the bond beam and it moves as one. They won't have any trouble replacing the coping and/or the deck in the future.
Not to be anal but there will be do damage to the bond beam? In renovation later, what will they do just peel off the mastic or dremel it off? The bond beam surface I notice when looking into the gap is not smooth like the coping surface. I guess I also need to put in enough mastic so that it runs level against the deck and on the other side it will be level against the bottom of the coping (if I am lucky) or slightly below the coping.
End result if I can get the mastic to slope but dont think its possible. https://www.doityourself.com/forum/.../86694d1509219417-pool-deck-o-seal-coping.jpg
End result if I can get the mastic to slope but dont think its possible. https://www.doityourself.com/forum/.../86694d1509219417-pool-deck-o-seal-coping.jpg
They won't be trying to seal to the bond beam, they'll seal the new deck to the new coping. They will peel off most of it and use a wire wheel or scraper to remove the rest if needed. But, I doubt they'll need to. The new deck will be be level with the coping and there should be about a 3/4" gap between them. They will fill the gap with backer rod so that it can be filled to a depth of about 3/4".