Please help confirm next steps!!!!

Jun 26, 2016
7
Ashton, MD
This is the 4th summer with our pool, switched to the BBB method in year 2 and never looked back, never had a problem...until now. When I closed the pool in October I drained the water below the returns (approx. 18") in order to blow out the lines added 10 gallons of 8.25% bleach and a bottle of algecide- same routine I had followed the previous year with excellent results at the spring opening. We have loop-loc mesh cover so each spring we end up with diluted CH/CYA levels- good right? I use Cal-Hypo to shock early in the process until I hit the 250 CH range, then switch to bleach. I also use dichlor during the startup to get the CYA up in the 45-50 range.

Cover came off the week before Memorial Day, murky water but not terribly troubling based on past years. Started with dichlor to get the CYA up, lots of brushing and vacuuming, then to Cal-Hypo, finally to liquid bleach. After a week or so the water was clear and all of my numbers looked great, however there was yellow/brown "stuff" all over the bottom and walls of the pool. Brushing and vacuuming have faded the color significantly over the last month but still the pool surface looks terrible. In week two I decide that I must have mustard algae as we don't use algecide with copper or have a heater with tubes that could leak. Consequently I started on a mustard algae shock regimen that I have been keeping up for the past two weeks with no improvement (I was being the good, patient pool owner that always wins the day!). With a 30K gallon pool and mustard shock FC level of 27 you can imagine the $ I've spent on chlorine :(. Finally this morning tested for stains- vitamin C didn't provide any lightning of the stains nor did a trichlor puck. Finally put a piece of PVC on top of a brown area, added a couple of ounces of muriatic acid and waited. As you might guess, when I moved the PVC pipe the area under it was perfectly white... So I'm leaning towards the abscorbic acid treatment based on what I've read here. Sound reasonable?

I'm afraid I've damaged the plaster as the surface is now noticeably rougher. If anyone can offer an opinion as to how badly I may have hurt the surface (which was re-plastered 4 years ago) I would greatly appreciate it.

Current readings from the K2006- FC 6.5, CYA 30, CH 260, TA 90, PH- 7.0 (was 7.4 and I added a quart of MA to bring it down)

Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance for any observations/suggestions.

Mike
Ashton, MD
 
Welcome to TFP :) seems you have been with us for a while now..

You CSI scale if your pool temp is 80 is at -0.43, that's a little low

But, if your PH is at 7 and your temp is at 70 your CSI is at -0.71 and that can start to leach calcium from your pool surface, how fast I am not sure..

as for the ascorbic acid treatment, I am not sure..

I hope this helps :)
 
Thanks for the reply cowboy, hopefully I can get the stain removal process complete and get the chemistry balanced in short order.

If anyone has experience with the Natural Chemistry Stain Free and Metal Free products could you please relate your experience regarding effectiveness/how long it took to restore the pool to a swimmable state? I've got the product to start the AA treatment by I'm concerned about having the pool clear by 4th of July. Any feedback greatly appreciated. Picture of pool in its current condition attached.

Thanks, MIke

stainedPool_1313.jpg
 
Sorry, one more question- I mentioned above that the vitamin C/trichlor pucks did not lift the stain but a PVC pipe with a couple of ounces of muratic acid removed the stain completely (under the PVC pipe). Am I right in my assumption that this is indicative of metal staining?
 
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