Scale, I need help please

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Just tested the water thought I would give the update. We have had some rain so my CYA and CH are down a bit, but still ok I think.

C- 6
CC- 0
PH - 7.4
TA - 120
CH - 300
CYA - 55
Salt- 3200
Temp-82


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Zero scale on the aluminum pole. I'm going to vacuum through the filter as I will assume that will catch the scale I have, and then I will keep the salt water generator turned off just to be sure ...although I'm certain that it what's causing it. I never had this problem until introduced that SWG. When I do turn it back on, hopefully by running it at a lower percent will help.


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Reading through this, I'm having the EXACT SAME issue! Almost 2 month old plaster, didn't see flakes until introducing salt for the SWG. Thinking I'm going to test shutting off the SWG too...

29.5k gallon 42'x15' with 8.5 deep end, IG Plaster, DE, VS pump, built 3/24/2016 (plastered twice) ,k-2006 test kit, SWG with spa, kreepy krawly cleaner
 
Thanks basod, that said I'm hoping them there's someway I can stop the SWD from producing scale. I will try reducing the power and play with it a bit. In the meantime I'm one full day into having it shut down I will just use liquid chlorine for a few days just to be sure that's what's causing it although I am certain it is. I sure hope there's a remedy, I don't want to have to remove scale every other day.


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brandilulu said:
Reading through this, I'm having the EXACT SAME issue! Almost 2 month old plaster, didn't see flakes until introducing salt for the SWG. Thinking I'm going to test shutting off the SWG too...

29.5k gallon 42'x15' with 8.5 deep end, IG Plaster, DE, VS pump, built 3/24/2016 (plastered twice) ,k-2006 test kit, SWG with spa, kreepy krawly cleaner
Click to expand...

Scary the similarities. Fresh plaster, new SWG, I even have a Kreepy Krawler! LOL

Hopefully we can get this figured out, if you get it figured out let me know.... in the meantime follow this thread I will keep you posted. Lots of good people helping with this, I think we will get it figured out.



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Just be sure your water chemistry is the same with SWC off (except for FC of course).

If it keeps happening, we're pinpointing something related to pool structure and plumbing. If it doesn't happen after a week, and then re-occurs with the SWG on, it's obviously the SWG.
 
I will keep the water chemistry the same, it has not varied hardly at all for quite a few weeks and I will maintain it exactly the same. I stopped by Wally world and picked up some 10% chlorine, I will use that to maintain my sanitizer. I have and I will continue to keep my pH ~7.2 - 7.5 maintaining a negative CSI


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Well it appears that it is indeed the salt water generator, I'm not surprised but needed to confirm it. I guess now the question is what do I do? I'm certainly not going to continue to vacuum my pool every few days, do you think replacing the cell would change anything? I will play around with the adjustments, but I am skeptical that's going to solve the problem. I wonder if Hayward would replace a cell under warranty? This is brand-new.


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I've not yet turned off my SWG, but I've been fanatically keeping my pH at 7.2 (CSI = -.41) for almost a week, and finally this morning I had zero new flakes when the equipment came on. It's been getting less and less, and becoming more of a powder vs flakes. Hoping I don't have to forever keep pH that low, but it's much better than brushing/vacuuming every day!

22k gallon, IG Plaster, cartridge, VS pump, built 3/24/2016 (plastered twice) ,k-2006 test kit, SWG with spa, kreepy krawly cleaner
 
Long term, keep the TA low (50's) and consider adding borates. Borates cut the pH rise in the salt cell by half which will greatly reduce the scale formation. They will also help lower the CSI.

From personal experience, I've had 50ppm of borates in the water from the day I installed the swg and have never had to clean the cell or seen any flakes. The additional pH buffering is an added bonus, albeit a small one.
 
I've been maintaining at 7.2 with daily acid additions, but my TA has yet to budge even the slightest (it's at 80). Do you need to take pH below 7.2 in order to reduce TA?

22k gallon, IG Plaster, cartridge, VS pump, built 3/24/2016 (plastered twice) ,k-2006 test kit, SWG with spa, kreepy krawly cleaner
 
So reading above conversation, my CSI at -2 to -3 is not negative enough? I've been keeping my pH between 7.2 and 7.5, my TA still is at 120 I'm having a hard time getting lower even though it started much higher. What is the best way to add borates without raising pH quickly?

I guess what I'm asking is do I need to make my CSI even more aggressive and also best way to add borates and to what level?

I've been adding probably anywhere from 20 to 32 oz of 20 Baum MA a day to keep that pH level where I want it, TA is holding strong.



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Pentair publishes +.3 to -.3 as balanced, and I've also read (not sure where, I've been looking at this a lot), that values less than -.6 are corrosive. As I'm trying to resolve a significant scaling issue, what makes sense to me is to keep to the lower side so that I can clean out my system. While I'm "aiming" for -.41, I'm not hitting it for long because my pH is really wanting to rise. So far, keeping it low has been the only thing that's helped to resolve the flakes...

22k gallon, IG Plaster, cartridge, VS pump, built 3/24/2016 (plastered twice) ,k-2006 test kit, SWG with spa, kreepy krawly cleaner
 
Once CSI goes over -0.3 you run the risk of etching. Etching will dramatically reduce the life of your plaster.

Brandilulu,
This thread belongs to Lykly. Please keep all responses and questions directed to OP. If you have questions please ask them in your own thread.
 
pooldv said:
Once CSI goes over -0.3 you run the risk of etching. Etching will dramatically reduce the life of plaster
Click to expand...

Up to -.3 it is OK or is even that detrimental to the life of my plaster?

I talked with a technician from Hayward today, I'm pretty sure i get directed to a helpdesk type place as they are not very knowledgeable. One thing I did learn, is the dial from 0 to 100 is not a power setting, it is the percent of the time the cell runs while it is powered on. I am going to turn it way down just see what happens, even though I will probably have to supplement with chlorine. I was under the impression it ran all the time and that was the percent of strength. I guess I was wrong.

On a positive note, my total alkalinity has dropped to 110. If I keep my pH at 7.4 with current condition is my CSI is at-.21


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-0.3 is fine. Yes, the 0-100 is percentage of the time it is making chlorine in the cycle. I think you said it runs on a 3 hour cycle. So, on 50% it will make chlorine for 1-1/2 hours of the 3 hour cycle.

Your TA will continue to drop as you add acid to lower PH.
 

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