The pool and I are no longer friends
- Thread starter marlyu
- Start date
Question, how soon after adding chlorine can I test to see if it's up to SLAM level to decide if need to add more? 1hr, 2hrs?
Nevermind, found answer through search, every hour
Nice job! You really learning how to care for you own pool. Just know you can ask if you are unsure or your search does not bring it up.
Morning of Day 4 slam pic. It's finally more blue than green
OH YEAH! I am seeing some blue showing through! Keep it up!
Kim:cat:
I can see the difference!
Might not be a bad time to inspect your ladders, behind the stairs (if you have those kind of stairs) and behind you lights for for any hidden algae.
Might not be a bad time to inspect your ladders, behind the stairs (if you have those kind of stairs) and behind you lights for for any hidden algae.
Woohoo! You are almost finished. Keep up the fight until you pass the 3 criteria of the SLAM.
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- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Don't ya just love seeing that algae die?!? Now you can grill it til it's well done! Great work.
I just scanned your thread and didn't see any mention of removing the ladders and scrubbing under them with a bleach solution. I may have missed it, but if not, that would help.
Marian, the ladder was put in when we started opening the pool clean, so I'm pretty sure it's good.
So, testing question/dilemma for you all. This morning I test FC and it comes out to 12, and I think that's odd and not right. So, I retest, and it's 23. That makes more sense given the amount of cal-hypo I added last night and that we really shouldn't be losing that much overnight. Now, for a tie-breaker, I test a 3rd time and get 24. These are same 10ml samples, from the same location of the pool, a foot under, heap of DPD, etc. Testing kit is brand new 6 days old. What gives?
When hubby retested just about an hour ago (3hrs after me), he got 23.5. Chlorine has not been added since last night 8pm. I think I need to start monitoring CC as the clarity may only come if/when we add skimmer nets (coming soon). I may try and OCLT too tonight or tomorrow. Let me know if I should consider adding DE or DE alternative and if anyone has used this product (Amazon.com : Zeofiber D.E. Alternative - 3 lbs : Swimming Pool De Filters : Patio, Lawn Garden) with success.
Consistent testing procedures and a speedstir ensures the most accurate results. Make sure the water meniscus line is consistent on the sample tube. Taking too long to perform the test will make the sample start to turn pink again. Also, there is some variability in results with higher FC while using the 10 ml sample. The most accurate result is the using the 25 ml sample, but that involves more reagents. You use a lot of reagents during a SLAM and the highest degree of accuracy isn't necessary, so the 10 ml is the most often used sample size that most of us use.
Here are some extended test kit directions with more details: Extended Test Kit Directions
Are you using cal-hypo to raise your FC during your SLAM? If so, I suggest you test your CH because you don't want that to get too high. High CH can cause scaling and cloudy water and with your small pool CH can get out of hand quickly. Compare your CH to the Pool School - Recommended Levels. Make sure that your CSI per pool math is less than 0.6 and ideally try to keep it as close to zero as possible.
Best to stick with bleach/liquid chlorine.
- - - Updated - - -
DE may help. Your filter is really small, so I would try adding 1/2 cup of DE. Sand filters take a long time to filter out the dead algae and intex filters are very small and they take a longer than larger sand filters.
Here are some extended test kit directions with more details: Extended Test Kit Directions
Are you using cal-hypo to raise your FC during your SLAM? If so, I suggest you test your CH because you don't want that to get too high. High CH can cause scaling and cloudy water and with your small pool CH can get out of hand quickly. Compare your CH to the Pool School - Recommended Levels. Make sure that your CSI per pool math is less than 0.6 and ideally try to keep it as close to zero as possible.
Best to stick with bleach/liquid chlorine.
- - - Updated - - -
DE may help. Your filter is really small, so I would try adding 1/2 cup of DE. Sand filters take a long time to filter out the dead algae and intex filters are very small and they take a longer than larger sand filters.
Thanks KC. I'll retest CYA and CH tonight. Yes, I've been using the cal-hypo when we ran out of bleach because I already had a lot of that on hand. We'll strongly consider the fiber too.
FC and CC
Just a quick question here. I know when you test FC, you count the drops until it first goes clear. However, within seconds it can start turning pink again. Do I add additional drops to make it clear again before adding the reagent to test for CC since that may turn it pink too if there are contaminants?
Mod note: I merged your two threads. Please keep it all on one thread. Ask if you do not understand or are unsure of something.
Just a quick question here. I know when you test FC, you count the drops until it first goes clear. However, within seconds it can start turning pink again. Do I add additional drops to make it clear again before adding the reagent to test for CC since that may turn it pink too if there are contaminants?
Mod note: I merged your two threads. Please keep it all on one thread. Ask if you do not understand or are unsure of something.
Re: FC and CC
Try to keep your questions in the same thread
My response from earlier this morning to your other thread addressed this issue. Yes, it will turn pink if you let it sit, but you ignore it. Again, having the speedstir helps speed up the testing when you are at the higher levels of FC so that the solution isn't sitting around longer than necessary to do the drops.
Try to keep your questions in the same thread
My response from earlier this morning to your other thread addressed this issue. Yes, it will turn pink if you let it sit, but you ignore it. Again, having the speedstir helps speed up the testing when you are at the higher levels of FC so that the solution isn't sitting around longer than necessary to do the drops.
Re: FC and CC
Thanks, sorry, I don't think the question was quite the same there. Feel free to delete this thread. So it's ok to let it turn pink, add the reagent anyway, then the FAS-DPD drops until clear?
Thanks, sorry, I don't think the question was quite the same there. Feel free to delete this thread. So it's ok to let it turn pink, add the reagent anyway, then the FAS-DPD drops until clear?
Re: FC and CC
You add the drops until it becomes clear... it will turn pink again if you let it sit, but ignore it. This is why you need to get through the test quickly especially when testing high FC levels.
Here are the details on the test: Extended Test Kit Directions
FAS-DPD Chlorine Test
FC and CC - Free Chlorine and Combined Chlorine
Rinse the sample tube with pool water.
Fill the sample tube with pool water to the 10 ml mark. The top of the sample will be curved. This curve is called a meniscus. The bottom of the meniscus should be level with the 10 ml mark.
Using the small spoon shaped end of the dipper, add one heaping dipper, or two level dippers, of R-0870 and swirl to mix. If the sample turns pink for a moment and then turns clear again, or if it turns brown, add another dipper of R-0870. If the sample remains clear the entire time, your FC level is probably zero, however it is best to verify that with an OTO chlorine test, since the FAS-DPD test is prone to the occasional false zero.
Swirling constantly and counting the number of drops as you go, add R-0871 one drop at a time. Continue adding drops until the color changes to clear. The pink color may become extremely faint before it goes away. Make sure that the sample goes completely clear.
Multiply the number of drops by 0.5 to get your FC level.
Add 5 drops of R-0003 and swirl to mix. If the sample remains clear, your CC level is zero.
If the sample turns pink again, add R-0871 one drop at a time, swirling constantly and counting the number of drops as you go. Continue adding drops until the color changes to clear. The pink color may become extremely faint before it goes away. Make sure that the sample goes completely clear.
Multiply the number of drops by 0.5 to get your CC level.
Dispose of the sample safely. It is best to pour it down the drain with the water running. Do not add it back to the pool.
Rinse the sample tube with tap water and store for next time.
Notes
Hold the dropper bottles vertically and squeeze gently, so that drops come out slowly and seem to hang on the tip of the dropper bottle for a moment before falling.
The exact amount of R-0870 powder used is not critical. The goal is to add more than you really need rather than using too little. Using too little R-0870 powder can throw off the results of the test. You need to use enough to bind to all of the chlorine that is present. Adding extra, within reason, has no effect. At very high FC levels it is likely that you will need to use more than the normal amount.
If left sitting on the counter, the sample will turn pink again one or two minutes after the test is completed. This is normal.
When measuring high FC levels, or measuring FC when the CC level is relatively high, it is important to move through the test quickly. Drops should be added about once per second, or slightly faster, swirling the entire time. You can slow down a little at the end of the test, to give you time to watch for the end point.
In rare cases the sample may turn cloudy. If this happens the test is still valid. You add drops until the sample turns cloudy white, i.e. the red/pink is completely gone, rather than waiting for it to turn clear.
Any MPS in the water will count towards the FC reading. Taylor R-0867 Deox Reagent can be used to eliminate this interference.
Over time, it is common for a cloudy residue to build up on sample tubes used for FAS-DPD chlorine testing. The residue can be removed by filling the sample tube with bleach, letting it sit for several minutes, rinsing, and then wiping throughly with a paper towel.
There isn't normally any reason to do this, but if you need more precision you can do this test with a 25 ml sample of pool water and multiply the number of drops by 0.2. In most situations the added precision is useless and simply wastes reagent.
R-0870 is DPD powder. The indicator in the powder turns pink when bound to chlorine. R-0870 powder gets darker over time and eventually starts to clump up. If it is clumped up, you should crush it back into a slightly lumpy powder before using it.
R-0871 is FAS-DPD titrating reagent. It should be a clear colorless liquid. If it turns a dark yellow color, it has gone bad.
R-0003 is DPD Reagent #3. It should be a clear colorless liquid. If it turns yellow, it has gone bad.
The precision of the measurement is plus or minus one drop when up to 10 drops of titrant are used, or plus or minus 10% of the final reading, when more than 10 drops of titrant are used.
You add the drops until it becomes clear... it will turn pink again if you let it sit, but ignore it. This is why you need to get through the test quickly especially when testing high FC levels.
Here are the details on the test: Extended Test Kit Directions
FAS-DPD Chlorine Test
FC and CC - Free Chlorine and Combined Chlorine
Rinse the sample tube with pool water.
Fill the sample tube with pool water to the 10 ml mark. The top of the sample will be curved. This curve is called a meniscus. The bottom of the meniscus should be level with the 10 ml mark.
Using the small spoon shaped end of the dipper, add one heaping dipper, or two level dippers, of R-0870 and swirl to mix. If the sample turns pink for a moment and then turns clear again, or if it turns brown, add another dipper of R-0870. If the sample remains clear the entire time, your FC level is probably zero, however it is best to verify that with an OTO chlorine test, since the FAS-DPD test is prone to the occasional false zero.
Swirling constantly and counting the number of drops as you go, add R-0871 one drop at a time. Continue adding drops until the color changes to clear. The pink color may become extremely faint before it goes away. Make sure that the sample goes completely clear.
Multiply the number of drops by 0.5 to get your FC level.
Add 5 drops of R-0003 and swirl to mix. If the sample remains clear, your CC level is zero.
If the sample turns pink again, add R-0871 one drop at a time, swirling constantly and counting the number of drops as you go. Continue adding drops until the color changes to clear. The pink color may become extremely faint before it goes away. Make sure that the sample goes completely clear.
Multiply the number of drops by 0.5 to get your CC level.
Dispose of the sample safely. It is best to pour it down the drain with the water running. Do not add it back to the pool.
Rinse the sample tube with tap water and store for next time.
Notes
Hold the dropper bottles vertically and squeeze gently, so that drops come out slowly and seem to hang on the tip of the dropper bottle for a moment before falling.
The exact amount of R-0870 powder used is not critical. The goal is to add more than you really need rather than using too little. Using too little R-0870 powder can throw off the results of the test. You need to use enough to bind to all of the chlorine that is present. Adding extra, within reason, has no effect. At very high FC levels it is likely that you will need to use more than the normal amount.
If left sitting on the counter, the sample will turn pink again one or two minutes after the test is completed. This is normal.
When measuring high FC levels, or measuring FC when the CC level is relatively high, it is important to move through the test quickly. Drops should be added about once per second, or slightly faster, swirling the entire time. You can slow down a little at the end of the test, to give you time to watch for the end point.
In rare cases the sample may turn cloudy. If this happens the test is still valid. You add drops until the sample turns cloudy white, i.e. the red/pink is completely gone, rather than waiting for it to turn clear.
Any MPS in the water will count towards the FC reading. Taylor R-0867 Deox Reagent can be used to eliminate this interference.
Over time, it is common for a cloudy residue to build up on sample tubes used for FAS-DPD chlorine testing. The residue can be removed by filling the sample tube with bleach, letting it sit for several minutes, rinsing, and then wiping throughly with a paper towel.
There isn't normally any reason to do this, but if you need more precision you can do this test with a 25 ml sample of pool water and multiply the number of drops by 0.2. In most situations the added precision is useless and simply wastes reagent.
R-0870 is DPD powder. The indicator in the powder turns pink when bound to chlorine. R-0870 powder gets darker over time and eventually starts to clump up. If it is clumped up, you should crush it back into a slightly lumpy powder before using it.
R-0871 is FAS-DPD titrating reagent. It should be a clear colorless liquid. If it turns a dark yellow color, it has gone bad.
R-0003 is DPD Reagent #3. It should be a clear colorless liquid. If it turns yellow, it has gone bad.
The precision of the measurement is plus or minus one drop when up to 10 drops of titrant are used, or plus or minus 10% of the final reading, when more than 10 drops of titrant are used.