Liquidator installed below pool level

Bama Rambler said:
Everything looks good there. I bet you have a bad check valve. Even if it's brand new I bet it's bad. Since it takes so long for it to overflow you probably can't tell by blowing back through it that it's bad. I'd change it out if you have an extra one.
If you think it is only one bad valve, try swapping the check valves if you don't have another one. A bad one on the in side shouldn't overflow the unit is the float valve is good. That could be one way of narrowing it down some.
 
salp said:
If you have shut off both water supplies to the liquidator, then I would bet that your check valves are bad.
No, what I said, is if I shut off EITHER control valve, the tank does NOT overflow. It only overflows if BOTH are open. This seems to indicate the problem is not on one side or the other, but requires failure on both
 
poolgirl22 said:
Miranda said:
Here is where the return tubing connects to the pressure side, between the filter and the valves to the returns. Photo taken from the rear side)

[attachment=3:34avop11]return.jpg[/attachment:34avop11]
Is that the 'T' to which you referred the other day? And that can just be capped in the winter or if I should ever remove the liquidator and would not require drilling into the pvc?

I plan to attach the OUT line to the drain in the pump basket. That looks just as easy on the IN line...just want to be sure I know what I'm looking for at Lowes.

In my case, I used a regular 2" tee with a 1/2" threaded reducing bushing, in place of an elbow. I chose this becauase space was tight, but it produces more frictional drag thand a regular elbow would. A better choice if you have room is to put a tee inline with the 1/2" fitting on the "tee "side. If you have 1 1/2" pipe, you can use a reducing tee that has 1/2" female threads on the third side, which will look something like this:
[attachment=1:34avop11]401-251_reducing Tee.jpg[/attachment:34avop11]
If you can't find a reducing tee, just use a regular tee and insert a 1/2" threaded reducing bushing, which will look something like this:[attachment=0:34avop11]6326d0f3-dc87-4494-bc0a-e33712dafeb3_3.jpg[/attachment:34avop11]
The barbs you need are readily available.
 

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Ok, this is ridiculous. I went out last night after the pump had turned off and the LQ had overflowed AGAIN!!!!
The outline check valve had failed once again, this one had only been in for 2 days!!! Luckily, after I had 2 go in the first month I ordered extra ones, so I was able to get 'er back up and running.
Any ideas? Could it be that the static presure of the water sitting on it from the ABG setup and it being below the water level causes the failure? US Plastics site says it's operating temp is up to 140 degrees. Could it fail from being in full sun? Am I just having a run of bad luck? Are the valves junk? I have one more, so when the next one fails, I am going to have to go back to the original stuff and order the alternative upgrade stuff and see how that works out. We have had no rain and are not expecting any soon, so I really can't afford to keep loosing water like this with the overflows. I am loosing enough through splashing and evaporation.
 
Which check valves are you using?

I cheated and bought a 3/8" instead of a 1/4" but that shouldn't make a difference. Keep in mind that with the LQ below the water line it's got tot be either the inlet float valve or the outlet check valve. I know you know that but just wanted to that in you're head.
 

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barnyard, I also contemplated that heat/thermal expansion was causing the problem, but in my case it is just as likely to happen at 4:00 am when it is cool than at 1:00 pm and 100 degrees. I am still looking for a pattern here. When I start paying closer attention and writing down times, etc, it stops overflowing. When I get busy with other things and forget about it, it overflows. That is the only pattern I have found so far. I am using the US plastics 3/8" check valves. I am only putting the one on the OUT side, because putting one on the IN side didn't make any difference (and why would it, since it is SUPPOSED to flow in that direction....toward the LQ) It seems we are in the same boat here.
 
Yep, I am using the 3/8 US Plasctics one also. I can't seem to find a pattern either. Sometimes I am not around the pump when it shuts off, so I don't know exactly when it started overflowing. If it is heat, it is really screwing it up, because even when it is not hot I can blow air through it. In fact, here is my check valve this morning. The temps here got into the 60's last night. So the check valve wasn't hot when I did this. Maybe the heat destroys it?????
 

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Bama Rambler said:
That check valve will come apart. Just unscrew both halves and post pics of the insides of it before you clean it up if you don't mind.
Good idea Bama. At first glance, I thought they were molded, but took a look this morning and it does come apart rather easily. I had another overflow last night. This check valve didn't even make a whole day. So this morning, I got the 3 other ones I had replaced and pulled them apart. I didn't get pictures, but may still be able to with the one that is still on the pool. There was what appeared to be very fine grit. Probably WS? It cleaned off by just brushing it with my fingers. When I put them back together, they worked fine. Now, I didn't think I had a big WS problem. Just some discoloration in the lines, like I have read that most people have, and a little bit of discoloration in the flow meter, but nothing to impede flow or the operation of the flow meter. I do have some white flakes floating around in the tank though.
The grit didn't seem to be enough to keep the seal from sealing in the valve, but I am thinking that it somehow binds up the plastic posts so that the seal doesn't reseat. I am thinking about trying a little bit heavier spring in there, maybe some sort of lube on the plastic posts, maybe ream out the post holes just a tad or something like that. I am also thinking about completly tearing down the whole tank, cleaning it out and starting from scratch. Although I don't really like the idea of the acid bath ....... I am a sissy when it comes to that stuff.
Any other ideas? Maybe we can get this thing solved one way or the other.
Miranda, have you taken one of your check valves apart? I would be very interested to see if we are fighting the same thing here.
 
Well, the spring I tried out of my assortment of odds and ends turned out to restrict the flow too much. So, I put the old spring back in, but stretched it a little bit to give it a little bit more compression. The valve from last night that failed didn't have too much ws deposit in it, so I am still not sure if I am fighting that or faulty check valves. Time will tell.
In my next carrer, I am thinking about becomming a check valve engineer. :)
 
I'm about ready to purchase a different style and send them to you myself. This is just crazy. I'm sorry you're having so much problem with it and we can't be of more help.

I guess in a good way that's a good thing. It's so rare to be that bad that we don't have any real answer for what's causing the problem. That doesn't help your feelings I know.
 
Thanks for feeling bad for me. At this point, I am not ready to throw in the towel. I will bird dog this thing until I either get an answer, or I take an axe to the whole thing. :) If I am battling WS, then I am not sure if a different valve will make a difference or not. So, I guess It will have to wait until I can determine that. We are going out this afternoon and won't be back until late tonight so the troubleshooting will just have to wait to continue tomorrow. Hopefully I can figure it out so someone else doesn't have to go through this ordeal. I'm curious about how Miranda is doing with that problem also.
I look at the bright side ......... I now know more about check valves than I did a week ago!!!
 

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