Jandy Lite2 not starting

[billyz]

I've read several other threads (here and other forums) from folks who have trouble getting this unit to start after winterizing. I've gone through a handful of troubleshooting steps and tests found in those other threads, but I still can't get the heater to light. One question I'm trying to answer, is what is the expected millivolt reading I should be getting from the pilot generator? I've seen a few different numbers but i'm not sure if it's due to model differences etc. I found a couple pdf documents from the manufacturer for installation and operation and even one for troubleshooting but none of the ones i've found had what the millivolt reading should be.

Does anyone know the expected millivolt from the generator or can point me to the appropriate documentation that would help me out some more?


What I've done so far:

• Pilot initially had very small flame. Closed pilot control and let it sit, re-lit and pilot now has large flame and looks to be contacting generator.
• verified 350 mV coming from wires out of the generator
• verified continuity across pressure switch when pump is in operation
• identified heavy corrosion on fireman jumper that blocked continuity.
  • bypassed the jumper block with wire-nut and confirmed continuity at far end of contacts
• verified resistance/continuity across temperature control potentiometer
• verified continuity across on/off control switch in the On position.

In several other threads i've found many people stated just having to leave it on for several hours before it would fire once, and then run normally afterwards. I have left the switch on and temp control set to max for about 2-days now. Pump is scheduled to run for 1 hour then off for 2 hours. From as far as I can tell, it has never lit, and I have been at the unit while the pump is running.

Any other thoughts or suggestions?

 

[ps0303]

I would say at the minimum, 400-450mv minimum.

1 hour on and 2 hours off???? What is your logic on this?

 

[billyz]

Thanks, for the info on the voltage. I'll get out there and re-test when the rain has stopped. If my re-test shows still at 350 right from the leads out of the generator, any fix-it attempts you think i could make or is it best to just replace the generator?

For the pump schedule, my logic was simply, "I have to start somewhere". I read up a little and it seems like a lot of information really points to tweaking run times and SWG% to find your sweet spot based on pool size, pump speed, SWG capacity, Sun exposure, Water temp etc... so I had to "Start somewhere". Based on the info in Pool School - Determine Pump Run Time it says SWG pools can need anywhere from 4-8 hours. I decided to start at 8 hours a day (broken into slices) and then test regularly and adjust according to my testing results. The pool has been open a total of 5 days. I ran the pump 24hrs/day for the first 3 days while i balanced.

Do you think that schedule is too much or too little or have some other feedback on the schedule? (i'm completely new at this kind of maintenance so i'm open to any critical feedback)

thanks again

 

[ps0303]

Some people are pretty good at replacing the thermocouple.

Normally most people run their pumps for 6-8 hours at a time. So for example, on at 10am off at 4 or 6pm.