Been SLAMing for 5 weeks... pool turned green overnight!!!

[Casey]

I don't see a picture but... What is your SLAM level once darkness falls? The reason I ask is because you should be a peak SLAM during night time hours so your FC can concentrate on killing whatever is in the pool without having sunlight degrade/consume the FC. Two things consume FC and they are sunlight and organics. Taking the sunlight out of the equation can help you get a foot hold on the situation.

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No, I found this on another post but it is an Intex with identical liner. Too tech challenged to load my own pic.

Please use your own pics as to not create confusion.

 

[Shannon L]

Hi Casey, not trying to confuse anyone but thought a very close to accurate pic would help. Yes, at a minimum I have brought the peak SLAM up every morning and night. Up to every 2 hours on the weekends.

That's what is so confusing about this green. It was ALMOST crystal clear Sunday evening, brought up to appropriate SLAM levels and the next morning, it was green.

 

[PAGirl]

It's somewhat easy to upload a pic. You use a site like Photobucket, upload your pic there, click on it. There will be boxes to the right (at least that's where they are on my iPad) on says IMG you copy and paste the link into your reply.

 

[pooldv]

Here is an article on metals, Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains

 

[Swampwoman]

Shannon, did you double check the cya twice, once with dilution, once the regular way?

If so, you'll want to drain enough to have a reading closer to 40. And if that's been your actual cya, you haven't actually technically been slamming...because you're only slamming when your [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] is in line...read the link.

The next step after the drain depends on doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test per the instructions in the link. High FC does oxidize meal, so throughout you will also be oxidizing metal from the new water too. But you want to make sure you've passed the OCLT first so that you can then avoid any further slamming -- those on well are best to avoid slamming (due to the oxidization of the metal) by maintaining TFP parameters and not needing to

Once you've passed the OCLT to ensure you won't have to slam again, add a start up dose Metal Magic to sequester the rest of the iron left from the partial drain. That should clear the tint, but if it doesn't, consider adding the slimebag I linked you to earlier to the mix...it would be good to use on refill anyway to help reduce metals from the well.

The reason for this order of steps is that high FC in slamming breaks down metal sequestrants, and both Metal Magic and jacks magic require that you not shock for at least a week after you add it. Metal Magic is slightly easier to use in that you do not have to lower ph to use it...works great, for example, at 7.6 and will lower it a bit.