Just received my new Taylor K-2006C - Please tell me how my pool looks.

[duraleigh]

You are providing incomplete information but you don't have a problem.

Report your CYA result and we'll suggest to you the correct FC dosage for your pool.....easy peasey.

 

[Richard320]

You show an overnight loss of 1 or less. It was 3.5 and now you get either 2.8 or 2.5. That's a pass

Your CC is .5 or less. That's a pass.

The water is clear. That's a pass.

It's not algae using up FC. It's the SWG not generating enough or the CYA isn't high enough to protect it. For the short-term, give the SWG a hand and manually add some bleach. No reason to close the pool. Most people raise FC a couple points before a party and blast it again immediately after.

Recheck CYA, clean the cell if needed, test the salt level, increase run time. Something's gotta fix it. It shouldn't be algae. You passed the overnight test.

 

[eostrike]

Post 33 has my complete results. I only tested FC/CC the last few days as I was told in the beginning that I do not need to test CYA every time as I would do doing it more than needed.

You are providing incomplete information but you don't have a problem.

Report your CYA result and we'll suggest to you the correct FC dosage for your pool.....easy peasey.

- - - Updated - - -

Okay you guys are making me feel a lot better now. I am green and I am not talking about the water, lol!

I went to Home Depot last night for something else and looked at the Clorox and it was over $4.00 a gallon so it was comparable to Chlorine they sell. Which would be better in your guys opinion, bleach or chlorine?

So having a SWG how to I fix this issue where it starts generating enough chlorine?

Thank you so much guys, my party may not be ruined after all, see I am happy now .

You are providing incomplete information but you don't have a problem.

Report your CYA result and we'll suggest to you the correct FC dosage for your pool.....easy peasey.

You show an overnight loss of 1 or less. It was 3.5 and now you get either 2.8 or 2.5. That's a pass

Your CC is .5 or less. That's a pass.

The water is clear. That's a pass.

It's not algae using up FC. It's the SWG not generating enough or the CYA isn't high enough to protect it. For the short-term, give the SWG a hand and manually add some bleach. No reason to close the pool. Most people raise FC a couple points before a party and blast it again immediately after.

Recheck CYA, clean the cell if needed, test the salt level, increase run time. Something's gotta fix it. It shouldn't be algae. You passed the overnight test.

 

[jblizzle]

Turn up the % and/ or run the pump longer.

Get some bleach in their asap. I would raise a little high, like 10ppm.

 

[eostrike]

Okay so today has been a little breezy and sunny at the same time. I haven't done anything with the pool water today as I had to go and buy some chlorine among some other chores. I think I am happy to report some improvements with out me doing anything. My pH was ~8.0 so I added acid to get it back down to an appropriate level.

I also decided to clean my DE filter as I have been concerned with the amount of DE inside from the PB about 2.5 months ago. The ID10T had poured a pretty big bag of DE dry right into the skimmer. He claimed it needed 9lbs of DE. Based on what I saw today I would imagine it was a more than 9lbs. The label on the filter says 6lbs. When the guy did this the DE went in my drain hole in the skimmer and it became hard as a rock. It took me awhile to get it all cleaned out but I got it.

Where the lid attached to the base you can also see a lot of little pebbles, I am certain those are from when the pool bottom was curing. The hardest part about cleaning the DE filter was figuring out how to put it back together. I took pictures but did not realize that one piece was smaller than the rest. Had I have caught that in the beginning it would have went together much faster, hopefully I will remember how to do this in 6 months when clean it again.

I am attaching some pictures of my 2.5 month old filter. There was a ton of DE at the bottom maybe 4 inches thick that I had to remove. The top of the filter had a nice pile of DE along with a filter screen completely blocked. If this was an issue with filtration it should be resolved now.

Probably has nothing to do with the clarity of the water but at least I fill better knowing it was done the right way according to the label on the filter.

Here are my numbers as of 3:15 PM today:

FC - 5
CC - 0
pH - ~8.0 (I added acid to bring this down)
TA - 100
CH - 220
CYA - ~65

 

[eostrike]

Thanks jblizzle - Things looked much better today for some reason. The pump already runs 10.5 hours a days. Water has always been crystal clear.

 

[needsajet]

That's great news Eo ! Glad you got the FC high enough to be sure it's safe for everyone at the party. Hope the heating goes quick, and that you have an amazing pool-warming party!

 

[eostrike]

That's great news Eo ! Glad you got the FC high enough to be sure it's safe for everyone at the party. Hope the heating goes quick, and that you have an amazing pool-warming party!

Thank you!

 

[eostrike]

I just took another reading from the pool today. Not sure where my chlorine has gone since we have not been in the pool since Sunday and my cell is set to 80%. On Sunday my FC was reading 4.5. Here are today's results. I am almost certain I will need to add some chlorine so the salt cell does not need to work so hard but please look and advise me what I need to do with these results and in which order. Pool Math still confuses me a little bit .

Just wanted to throw out there that I have my spillway from the spa to the pool on 30 minutes everyday in order to circulate the spa water. I know this will aerate the pool from what I have read and cause the pH to rise a little.

Todays test results using Taylor 2006C

FC – 3
CC – 0
pH – 7.8 (1 drop R-0005 brings it down to 7.6)
TA – 90
CH – 210
CYA – 60 (This one is a little confusing. If my back is against the sun and I am staring at it really good you can see a very slight outline. It is pretty much gone but just a hint of it. If I get closer to 50 it is 100% not there.
Water Temp: 78.

By reviewing the chart below it looks like my FC is good just on the low side. pH is spot on, TA may be a little high, CH still low and CYA on the lower end based on the Plaster rules with a SWG. Again I have a Pebble Sheen bottom so I am guessing that I should look at Plaster.

 

[eostrike]

Since I have a pebble sheen pool would I use the plaster chart below?

Vinyl	with Bleach FC 3-7 (See chart) pH 7.5-7.8 TA 50-90+ CH 0-350 (Don't add) CYA 30-50	with SWG FC 3-5 (See chart) pH 7.5-7.8 TA 60-80 CH 0-300 (Don't add) CYA 70-80
Plaster	with Bleach FC 3-7 (See chart) pH 7.5-7.8 TA 70-90+ CH 250-350 CYA 30-50	with SWG FC 3-5 (See chart) pH 7.6-7.8 TA 60-80 CH 350-450 CYA 70-80
Fiberglass	with Bleach FC 3-7 (See chart) pH 7.5-7.8 TA 70-90+ CH 220-320 CYA 30-50	with SWG FC 3-5 (See chart) pH 7.5-7.8 TA 60-80 CH 220-320 CYA 70-80

SWG Pools

CYA (Stabilizer)	Minimum FC	Target FC	Shock FC
60*​	3​	4​	24​
70​	3​	5​	28​
80​	4​	6​	31​

 

[jblizzle]

Yes plaster chart.
CH is low, but I would leave it and just keep the pH on the high side (7.6+)

How long are you running the pump with the SWG set at 80% each day?
With the added heat and sun comes a higher FC demand.
You might just have to turn it up ... after all the IC40 is barely adequate for a 30k pool.

 

[MarianParoo]

Yes, plaster. You really need to check FC and pH daily until you get to know your pool's habits. Add bleach to FC of 6.

Is your water Crystal clear?

 

[eostrike]

Thanks for jumping in jblizzle.

Pool runs for 10.5 hours everyday.

Out of that the SWG runs 7.5 hours per day at 80%.

Should I add anything or leave it be for now. Pool is clear .

Yes plaster chart.
CH is low, but I would leave it and just keep the pH on the high side (7.6+)

How long are you running the pump with the SWG set at 80% each day?
With the added heat and sun comes a higher FC demand.
You might just have to turn it up ... after all the IC40 is barely adequate for a 30k pool.

 

[jblizzle]

The IC40 makes 1.4 pounds of chlorine gas per day running at 100% for 24 hours. In a 30k pool that is 5.6ppm.

Running for 7.5 hours at 80% is adding 5.6 * (7.5/24) * 0.8 = 1.4ppm of FC to your pool daily.

Normal daily consumption is 2-4ppm of FC. So I just do not think you are running the SWG enough.

Plus the lower CYA is going to result in higher losses to the sun.

I would add some bleach to get the FC up ASAP, raise the CYA up to 70-80ppm, and increase the SWG output (by increasing the % and/or the run time)

 

[eostrike]

Looks clear to me. The wind is blowing a little so the water is ripply where the pool vacuum is sitting. I don't currently use bleach but I do have chlorine from Home Depot.

Yes, plaster. You really need to check FC and pH daily until you get to know your pool's habits. Add bleach to FC of 6.

Is your water Crystal clear?

- - - Updated - - -

You guys are great. If it were you would you raise the runtime or the percentage on the SWG if this was your pool. I will get Chlorine in it right away.

I will also buy some conditioner tomorrow on the way home from work and get it to 70. This part just confuses me a little when looking in the tube. If the dot is barely visible is that good or does it need to be 100% gone. If it need to be 100% then I am more likely at 50 for my CYA.

The IC40 makes 1.4 pounds of chlorine gas per day running at 100% for 24 hours. In a 30k pool that is 5.6ppm.

Running for 7.5 hours at 80% is adding 5.6 * (7.5/24) * 0.8 = 1.4ppm of FC to your pool daily.

Normal daily consumption is 2-4ppm of FC. So I just do not think you are running the SWG enough.

Plus the lower CYA is going to result in higher losses to the sun.

I would add some bleach to get the FC up ASAP, raise the CYA up to 70-80ppm, and increase the SWG output (by increasing the % and/or the run time)

 

[jblizzle]

Just increasing to one hundred percent is still not gonna be adding enough FC.

 

[Swampwoman]

I'm a bit confused, eos, as to why if your running your pump for 10 hrs a day, why you're only running the swg for 7.5 of those hours? No energy savings there.

Jason's calculations, which were spot on, show that even if you ran the swg for 12 hours at 100 percent, you'd only be generating about 2.8 ppm of FC. It would be perfectly normal on a sunny day to need that much.

So for easy math, dial Er up to 12 hrs at 100% and see if your readings are stable from one day to the next. If the FC climbs above your target level, use that days reading to estimate how much your pool "used" then dial down accordingly either by percentage or run time. Make sense?

Once you get this dialed in, you will barely have to think about it and rarely change it. With your size of pool in gallons, versus the capacity of your swg, I would just run it 24/7 on party weekends. Extra filtering never hurts after a party

The way to think about the swg is that it produces a fixed amount of FC over a fixed amount of time. That's the job its great at doing, and as long as you run it at recommended levels, that's usually the end of the story.

But if you let it run too low or too little in terms of time so tat it drops belw range OR (and) starts developing nascent algae and a higher chlorine demand, then that's when you bring in the "fast acting" liquid chlorine for a quick raise.

 

[dobeluvr]

New to this, so if it is out in left field I apologize in advance. Since the op has a swg, shouldn't they check the salt level in their pool? I cant find it anywhere in prior posts, maybe I missed it?

 

[eostrike]

Here is my schedule. I increased it from where the PB had it originally as they were not running it as long:

Pool cleaner - 7 days a week from 5:00 AM - 8:00 AM (This DOES NOT enable the SWG) - 2500RPM, anything lower the cleaner will NOT climb the walls.
Pool - 7 days a week from 8:00 AM - 2:30 PM (SWG IS enabled) - 2200RPM, anything lower than 2100 will say LOW FLOW and does NOT generate chlorine.
Spillway - 7 days a week from 2:30 PM - 3:00 PM (SWG IS enabled) 2100 RPM - anything lower the SWG says LOW FLOW and will NOT generate chlorine.

I think I failed math too, I said I run the pump 10.5 hours a day but I really think it is 9.5 hours a day. Not sure why I keep thinking it is longer than what it is. This is longer than the PB originally set it up though. You are all the PROS so I will trust what you all suggest.

I would LOVE to lower the pump speed down more and keep it on even longer but then the SWG will not generate chlorine. To me it makes no sense why to have a variable speed pump if I can not run it slower.

I'm a bit confused, eos, as to why if your running your pump for 10 hrs a day, why you're only running the swg for 7.5 of those hours? No energy savings there.

Jason's calculations, which were spot on, show that even if you ran the swg for 12 hours at 100 percent, you'd only be generating about 2.8 ppm of FC. It would be perfectly normal on a sunny day to need that much.

So for easy math, dial Er up to 12 hrs at 100% and see if your readings are stable from one day to the next. If the FC climbs above your target level, use that days reading to estimate how much your pool "used" then dial down accordingly either by percentage or run time. Make sense?

Once you get this dialed in, you will barely have to think about it and rarely change it. With your size of pool in gallons, versus the capacity of your swg, I would just run it 24/7 on party weekends. Extra filtering never hurts after a party

The way to think about the swg is that it produces a fixed amount of FC over a fixed amount of time. That's the job its great at doing, and as long as you run it at recommended levels, that's usually the end of the story.

But if you let it run too low or too little in terms of time so tat it drops belw range OR (and) starts developing nascent algae and a higher chlorine demand, then that's when you bring in the "fast acting" liquid chlorine for a quick raise.

Salt is spot on @ 3500 PPM according to my Pentair Easytouch control system.

New to this, so if it is out in left field I apologize in advance. Since the op has a swg, shouldn't they check the salt level in their pool? I cant find it anywhere in prior posts, maybe I missed it?

 

[pooldv]

New to this, so if it is out in left field I apologize in advance. Since the op has a swg, shouldn't they check the salt level in their pool? I cant find it anywhere in prior posts, maybe I missed it?

The salt cell will give an error if there is low salt.

eostrike,
Raising CYA up to 70-80 will reduce your FC loss to the sun and therefore your daily FC consumption. The difference will be noticeable and it is worth doing. Bleach/liquid chlorine is the same thing just different percentages, bleach 6-8.25%, LC 10-12%