The latest relay survived another week. Maybe I really did just get unlucky 2 weeks in a row.
pump killing relays
- Thread starter satpoolguy
- Start date
Well, the plot thickens. I bought 4 relays, to replace the 2 i cannibalized for the pump and 2 more to have as spares. None of them will turn on using the 2 circuits that I stole the relays from, nor from an existing working circuit. But here's the interesting thing...if I put the lines from one of the circuits currently without a relay on to one of my existing relays, the relay clicks very quickly maybe a dozen times and I can see sparks in the bottom before the relay finally stays closed. But the circuit normally used on that relay closes the relay right away when activated. I also noticed that my pool and spa lights, on dimmer relays, don't work anymore. Not sure when that happened; I haven't used the lights in quite some time (likely 12+ months). This is really bizarre behavior. Ideas?
What automation do you have?
What relay part numbers did you get?
Check control voltage to the relay. You should be getting 24 volts dc. Try putting 24 volts dc to the relay to see if the relay closes securely.
What relay part numbers did you get?
Check control voltage to the relay. You should be getting 24 volts dc. Try putting 24 volts dc to the relay to see if the relay closes securely.
It's an Intellitouch i9+3.
I am just not noticing that I have the wrong relays...these are 200-240VAC, and they should be 24VDC...so that explains why the new relays don't work! Still not sure why I saw that one relay clicking before stayed closed with one control circuit but not the other, nor does it explain the lights...but the lights could be a whole bunch of unrelated things. Control voltages all seem to check out.
The coil voltage is 24 volts dc. But it controls 240 volts ac. Both voltages might be in the specs.
There are two small connection points and four larger connection points. The two small wire connection points are for the control voltage. When the automation wants to close a relay, it sends 24 volts dc to the relay coil by the small wires. The 24vdc powers an electromagnet that closes the contact points.
If the relay isn't getting proper voltage, it might not be getting pulled down securely.
When the relay is closed, large connection points 1 and 2 connect and 3 and 4 connect.
There are two small connection points and four larger connection points. The two small wire connection points are for the control voltage. When the automation wants to close a relay, it sends 24 volts dc to the relay coil by the small wires. The 24vdc powers an electromagnet that closes the contact points.
If the relay isn't getting proper voltage, it might not be getting pulled down securely.
When the relay is closed, large connection points 1 and 2 connect and 3 and 4 connect.
Both the original and replacement relays have the same part number, G7L-2A-BUBJ-CB, but the original says "Coil: 24VDC" under the part number, but the new units say "Coil: 200-240VAC". It sounds like the control voltage is different for the two, doesn't it?
When I put a multimeter on the control wires (coming from the panel) I was seeing a solid 24V DC.
When I put a multimeter on the control wires (coming from the panel) I was seeing a solid 24V DC.
That part number isn't complete. The one you want should be G7L-2A-BUBJ-CB-DC24. That relay is available in multiple coil voltages and the last part of the part number specifies the voltage.
G7L is the relay type, 2A is the contact rating, B means screw terminals, UB means upper bracket, J means it has a test button, an 80 after the J would indicate approvals, CB describes the insulation, and DC24 specifies 24VDC.
Thanks, that is helpful, and much more clear than the spec sheet I was looking at (https://www.omron.com/ecb/products/pdf/en-g7l.pdf)
The number printed on the relay and the box don't include anything after the "CB", but I obviously agree that there are multiple variants.
When the control voltage is sent to the relay coil, the contacts should be quickly and securely closed. If the contacts don't close properly, it can cause arcing. Chattering contacts or insecure contacts can be due to a bad relay, bad wiring or bad control voltage.