Rental Pool doesn't register chlorine
- Thread starter Rental Pool
- Start date
The tftestkits.net option slipped by me on the first page of this thread, as my focus was on how much I needed. tftestkits.net actually would have been cheaper, by 44¢, but that's nothing compared to what it is going to cost me for the total SLAM and SWG. Is Discount Salt Pool - Chlorine Generators - Chlorinators the best place to purchase the SWG, or should I get it directly through the manufacturer? It looks like CircuPools is less expensive ($1249 + $17.52 shipping for the RJ60). I like the 7 year warranty on the CircuPools. I only need the RJ30, but I could bump it up to the RJ45 or RJ60, if that makes it more cost effective over time. My research shows me no manufacturer is ideal, so I might as well go for the warranty. I won't be purchasing one until the pool is clean and balanced.
I've been reaching out to see if anyone does RO pool servicing in my area, but so far, the only response I got back was a negative. If anyone can recommend someone in the Los Angeles County area, please let me know. I'm on the north side of the county, if that helps (661 area code / Santa Clarita)
I've been reaching out to see if anyone does RO pool servicing in my area, but so far, the only response I got back was a negative. If anyone can recommend someone in the Los Angeles County area, please let me know. I'm on the north side of the county, if that helps (661 area code / Santa Clarita)
In the little list I have, Reverse Technologies in La Canada,CA might be the closest to you. Realize it likely will cost $400-500, which is why replacing water is usually cheaper anyway.
We generally recommend doubling the size of your pool when calculating the salt cell. So, for your 30k pool look at 60k salt cells.
Thank you for the name of Reverse Technologies. I had already left a message with Living Water Pool Services (both owned by the same person and located in the same area, but with different mailing addresses and phone #s). I left a message with RT, also, in case there is a difference.
Since the pool is 20-22K gallons, I could go with the RJ45 and still be doubled. Would there be an advantage of going up to the RJ60?
Since the pool is 20-22K gallons, I could go with the RJ45 and still be doubled. Would there be an advantage of going up to the RJ60?
Usually a large SWG will allow you to run the pump less (thus cheaper) and the cell should last longer. So, the delta in cost for the larger cell is usually worth it.
With him being in CA where there are SEVERE fines and consequences for over use of water......RO might be his only way to go.
Let us know what you find.
Kim
Let us know what you find.
Kim
jblizzle, I don't pay for the electricity, so I'm more concerned with how long the cell lasts. If the RJ60 would save me money over the RJ45, I'll go with that. Also, I just heard from Reverse Technologies, and the sticker shock floored me. He said it would be $850-$900. I don't believe that makes it cost effective. What are your thoughts? I'm still waiting to hear back from a couple other sources, but they may just give me his name.
Is it better to run the pump with a SWG during the night or the day? I've read on this site to add bleach at night, so the UV doesn't destroy the chlorine.
Is it better to run the pump with a SWG during the night or the day? I've read on this site to add bleach at night, so the UV doesn't destroy the chlorine.
Sounds like prices have gone up, although your pool is a little bigger. Or they are taking advantage of the water restrictions.
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,028
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
that is where I bought mine, they are great to work with..
I went with the SJ model, it has less information and settings and produces .60 pounds less chlorine at 2.5 pounds compared to the RJ at 3.1 pounds.. the SJ is designed to just turn on, set (25%, 50%, 75%, 100% and run.. the RJ can be set from 1 to 100%, and has a digital readout just like the hayward or pentair models..
By going 2 to 3 times the size of what you need you save because you run it at 50% saving the unit from running maxed out, this extends the life of the cell, I have mine set at 50% and run my pump from 12pm to 6am and it is staying ahead of the FC that I need.. If I need more chlorine I just add run time for the pump. I have only been running mine 2 weeks so I cannot say how long it will last, we will see
if you are connecting the SWG directly to where your pump power is connected or you have a analog timer go with the 220V, if you have a digital timer call them and ask, I had to change mine to 110V so there is only 1 power "leg" switched and not 2.
they do have the free upgrade (they always do) so it would be
RJ45 upgraded to RJ60 $1149
SJ45 upgraded to SJ60 $879
the SJ would save you some money upfront and would have enough chlorine produced for your pool
OUCH that does hurt BUT...............do you want the pool clear and useable? That is a real question. If you do not you can just let it sit like it is and go to a swamp. I would put a cover on it for safety.
If you want the pool clear and usable you are going to have to get the CYA lower. How you do it is up to you. Drain and refill or RO. Look at the costs of both. I don't know the fines you would get from the drain/refill.
If you decide to keep the pool open then you know you choices to help it stay clear.
Let us know what you decide. We will help you all we can.
kim
If you want the pool clear and usable you are going to have to get the CYA lower. How you do it is up to you. Drain and refill or RO. Look at the costs of both. I don't know the fines you would get from the drain/refill.
If you decide to keep the pool open then you know you choices to help it stay clear.
Let us know what you decide. We will help you all we can.
kim
You really have to wait and see what your CYA number is. Some people have found CYA levels of 200-300 ppm; if you are up in that range, a SLAM is not manageable, and RO would look more attractive, despite the high price.
I have to rush back to work, but I wanted to post the numbers. I had my tenant put 18 gallons of bleach in last night. Here are today's readings:
CYA 540 had to do 5 cups tap + 1 cup pool to get 90 (90 X 6 = 540)
FC 7.0 (35 X 0.2)
CC 0.4 (2 X 0.2)
pH 7.0 10-11 drops of R-0006 to get to 7.4
Alk 170 (17 X 10)
CH (tap water 230) pool 60X25 = 1500
CYA 540 had to do 5 cups tap + 1 cup pool to get 90 (90 X 6 = 540)
FC 7.0 (35 X 0.2)
CC 0.4 (2 X 0.2)
pH 7.0 10-11 drops of R-0006 to get to 7.4
Alk 170 (17 X 10)
CH (tap water 230) pool 60X25 = 1500
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With those numbers a SLAM would almost be impossible. But in reality at that dilution rate there is so much error induced that the CYA could,be +/- 150 or so.
I would be giving the reverse osmosis companies a call to get that CYA & CH down into reasonable numbers.
I would be giving the reverse osmosis companies a call to get that CYA & CH down into reasonable numbers.
The FC and CC have to use the same multiplier.
If you used 25ml of water, then it is 0.2ppm per drop
If you used 10ml of water, then it is 0.5ppm per drop ... this is what we recommend.
Your CYA and CH are so high, you need to replace about 100% of the water.
Also how is the pH so low? After adding that much bleach, I would have thought the FC would be much higher and the pH test would read artificially high.
If you used 25ml of water, then it is 0.2ppm per drop
If you used 10ml of water, then it is 0.5ppm per drop ... this is what we recommend.
Your CYA and CH are so high, you need to replace about 100% of the water.
Also how is the pH so low? After adding that much bleach, I would have thought the FC would be much higher and the pH test would read artificially high.
I've decided it's not cost effective to do the RO on this pool. The plaster is old and deteriorating. It makes more sense to have it re-plastered, which will take care of the water imbalance. Once it has been re-plastered, I'll install a SWG and keep things good with your regimen. Since it isn't a good idea to re-plaster in the hottest part of the summer, I'll wait on that till fall or early spring. I just need to do my best to balance this the best I can till then.
You are right about the FC and CC. I had written down directions from this site that must have been incorrect, as the Taylor test kit states what you state. Therefore, the CC is 0.4. I'll correct it above. I got a kick out of your "about" 100% water replacement. I was wondering how much to hold back. As far as the low pH, you're the experts, not me. All I can do is report my findings. I'm not qualified to interpret them. The bleach I added wasn't very good. I see on this site it is anywhere from 1%-6%, but probably closer to the 1%. I thought I got a good deal at 79¢ a gallon, but I guess not. I bought a lot, so figure I might as well use it up before getting better bleach. I have 11 - 6-gallon cases left. My tenant will put 2 gallons in every night till it is gone.
How do you recommend I balance this pool for now?
I'll post this and then get my pictures ready to post here.
You are right about the FC and CC. I had written down directions from this site that must have been incorrect, as the Taylor test kit states what you state. Therefore, the CC is 0.4. I'll correct it above. I got a kick out of your "about" 100% water replacement. I was wondering how much to hold back. As far as the low pH, you're the experts, not me. All I can do is report my findings. I'm not qualified to interpret them. The bleach I added wasn't very good. I see on this site it is anywhere from 1%-6%, but probably closer to the 1%. I thought I got a good deal at 79¢ a gallon, but I guess not. I bought a lot, so figure I might as well use it up before getting better bleach. I have 11 - 6-gallon cases left. My tenant will put 2 gallons in every night till it is gone.
How do you recommend I balance this pool for now?
I'll post this and then get my pictures ready to post here.
You need to keep the pH in the 7s, anyway to aerate the water? Or add some borax.
I do not even know what FC to suggest to try to keep the pool clear. With a CYA that high, it should need to be up around 40ppm, but that just seems crazy to try.
I do not even know what FC to suggest to try to keep the pool clear. With a CYA that high, it should need to be up around 40ppm, but that just seems crazy to try.
I'm having difficulty deleting the old photos and replacing them with new ones. How do I do that?
- - - Updated - - -
The algae isn't as bad as the old photos. It looks more like the one I just posted. If I knew how to delete the old ones, I could offer more photos of what it actually looks like.
How much borax should I add?
- - - Updated - - -
The algae isn't as bad as the old photos. It looks more like the one I just posted. If I knew how to delete the old ones, I could offer more photos of what it actually looks like.
How much borax should I add?
Let's try this for the photos:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/o4u8bsx2...6f8iB0lgHa?dl=0&preview=P_20150813_104902.jpg
I've asked my tenant to take photos at night with the pool light on. That should be better than dealing with the glare from the sun on the water. I hope to add those tomorrow.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/o4u8bsx2...6f8iB0lgHa?dl=0&preview=P_20150813_104902.jpg
I've asked my tenant to take photos at night with the pool light on. That should be better than dealing with the glare from the sun on the water. I hope to add those tomorrow.
As far as the bleach... if it really is in the 1-3% range you'd be better off keeping it to use as laundry brightener or to clean your toilets or whatnot....
In 10,000 gallons of water:
1% bleach adds 1ppm Cl
3% adds 3ppm
6% adds 6ppm
etc... see the pattern?
Obviously, in 20,000 gal's, it adds 1/2 the ppm above...
You can use that as a guide to figure out approx. what what you are adding is going to do.
(You can also use PoolMath to see what changes you can expect by adding various chems to your pool... see this article to help you use PoolMath to greatest effect.)
So in your pool, adding 2 gallons of 1% adds just 1ppm Cl... you probably have that much Cl in your tap water.
and a gallon of tap water doesn't cost $.79...?
And with >500 CYA, 2ppm isn't doing anything at all, unfortunately. As a matter of fact, if you have algae, it is likely being consumed almost immediately anyway, leaving a 0ppm residual within a couple hours...
Since you are looking at emptying, re-plastering, and starting fresh... It's probably best to cover the pool securely*, and just let it become a swamp.
You are fighting a losing battle. Just to have sanitary water at this point, you need to maintain a FC level that is so high (possibly 48-60 ppm?) [extrapolated from Chlorine/CYA Chart] that it really isn't feasible.
Bottom Line: IMO, the water cannot be balanced as it currently sits... and it can't be kept bacteria, virus, and algae free! Period.
Why keep throwing money down the drain....?
* If you do not have a secure, safety cover-- then a good option might be to construct what is often referred to as a "HUD cover"... If you google "pool HUD cover diagram", you can get instructions to make it safe-- so no one can get in accidentally, and drown.
In 10,000 gallons of water:
1% bleach adds 1ppm Cl
3% adds 3ppm
6% adds 6ppm
etc... see the pattern?
Obviously, in 20,000 gal's, it adds 1/2 the ppm above...
You can use that as a guide to figure out approx. what what you are adding is going to do.
(You can also use PoolMath to see what changes you can expect by adding various chems to your pool... see this article to help you use PoolMath to greatest effect.)
So in your pool, adding 2 gallons of 1% adds just 1ppm Cl... you probably have that much Cl in your tap water.
and a gallon of tap water doesn't cost $.79...?
And with >500 CYA, 2ppm isn't doing anything at all, unfortunately. As a matter of fact, if you have algae, it is likely being consumed almost immediately anyway, leaving a 0ppm residual within a couple hours...
Since you are looking at emptying, re-plastering, and starting fresh... It's probably best to cover the pool securely*, and just let it become a swamp.
You are fighting a losing battle. Just to have sanitary water at this point, you need to maintain a FC level that is so high (possibly 48-60 ppm?) [extrapolated from Chlorine/CYA Chart] that it really isn't feasible.
Bottom Line: IMO, the water cannot be balanced as it currently sits... and it can't be kept bacteria, virus, and algae free! Period.
Why keep throwing money down the drain....?
* If you do not have a secure, safety cover-- then a good option might be to construct what is often referred to as a "HUD cover"... If you google "pool HUD cover diagram", you can get instructions to make it safe-- so no one can get in accidentally, and drown.