Those more than likely are bound with CYA so I would not use them. They will only add more CYA to the pool. I understand about moving etc. We moved 7 blocks two years ago and changed to a SWG and new pump in the first month!
And here we go...!
- Thread starter PoolMoDee
- Start date
Any solid form of chlorine will add something you don't want too much of in your pool that can only be gotten rid of by draining and refilling. Most pucks are trichlor. These add chlorine AND CYA to your pool. Some pucks are cal-hypo, which adds chlorine and calcium hardness to your pool. There is lithium hypochlorite that adds only chlorine and lithium ions to your pool, but it is very expensive. Solid forms of chlorine can certainly be of use for intentionally raising CYA/CH with FC or for vacation times when you can't dose and don't have a SWG but are not recommended for maintenance use here on TFP. Bleach or SWG are best. Your CYA is already high, you need to avoid trichlor tablets and dichlor powdered shock for sure.
Sage advice. I see they are trichlor and some other additives.
I'll get my hands on some straight bleach and add ASAP.
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Added 168oz. of straight 5.7% usable bleach just not to the top-pointed aeration. Will do some more tests later on to see where that gets me once it cycles a bit.
Onto more cleaning/moving tasks for now. Maybe I'll get my fountain hooked up later...
I'll get my hands on some straight bleach and add ASAP.
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Added 168oz. of straight 5.7% usable bleach just not to the top-pointed aeration. Will do some more tests later on to see where that gets me once it cycles a bit.
Onto more cleaning/moving tasks for now. Maybe I'll get my fountain hooked up later...
Pucks have been gone since initial testing.
New results post bleach add:
Cl= 5 ~+
Br= 10
pH= 7.5
FC= 12
CYA= 80
Thoughts?
Also, at what point does this become something of a twice a week or so maintenance item?
New results post bleach add:
Cl= 5 ~+
Br= 10
pH= 7.5
FC= 12
CYA= 80
Thoughts?
Also, at what point does this become something of a twice a week or so maintenance item?
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DaninFLA
0
what is CL? chlorine? but you list FC as well??
for your CYA, your minimum FC is 6 and target is 9. I would let your FC drop down to that range. the issue with your current number is your FC is above 10 so your pH test is invalid. if you keep your FC at 8-9 the test is still valid.
you will need to test FC every day for a while to see how your pool operates and how much it consumes. then you can probably do it every other day but will still be adding bleach each day. then once or twice a week check your pH
for your CYA, your minimum FC is 6 and target is 9. I would let your FC drop down to that range. the issue with your current number is your FC is above 10 so your pH test is invalid. if you keep your FC at 8-9 the test is still valid.
you will need to test FC every day for a while to see how your pool operates and how much it consumes. then you can probably do it every other day but will still be adding bleach each day. then once or twice a week check your pH
the CL and BR would be from the colorblock test. PoolMoeDee, the CL and BR from that test don't need to be reported, just the pH. You are using the FAS-DPD test to determine the FC which is more accurate, and the BR is only applicable to a bromine pool.
The colorblock test only goes up to 5 anyway, and is more useful as a quick daily test to make sure you have some chlorine in the pool. Best wishes
The colorblock test only goes up to 5 anyway, and is more useful as a quick daily test to make sure you have some chlorine in the pool. Best wishes
Welcome!
As mentioned, no need to do the OTO CL test. Just test for:
FC (every day)
CC (every day)
TA (1X day until your sure it's stable then 1X a week or so)
pH (1X day until TA & pH is stable then every 2-3 days)
CYA monthly once you're comfortable with the test. Check it anytime there is a big water exchange.
I think you said it's a vinyl liner so just check CH 1X month to protect your heater.
You should perform an OCLT. You have let you FC dip dangerously low a few times and you should check to see if an algae bloom is starting. An OCLT will tell you if anything besides UV radiation (eg Algae) is consuming FC. With your CYA as high as it is you want to "nip it in the bud" so you don't have to spend all your beer money on bleach.
Dom
As mentioned, no need to do the OTO CL test. Just test for:
FC (every day)
CC (every day)
TA (1X day until your sure it's stable then 1X a week or so)
pH (1X day until TA & pH is stable then every 2-3 days)
CYA monthly once you're comfortable with the test. Check it anytime there is a big water exchange.
I think you said it's a vinyl liner so just check CH 1X month to protect your heater.
You should perform an OCLT. You have let you FC dip dangerously low a few times and you should check to see if an algae bloom is starting. An OCLT will tell you if anything besides UV radiation (eg Algae) is consuming FC. With your CYA as high as it is you want to "nip it in the bud" so you don't have to spend all your beer money on bleach.
Dom
I'll run a battery of tests tomorrow again -- I'm looking over my notes and while cleaning/moving I've just lost track of which #s were which. Womp Womp. PoolNoob was right -- I was double testing with the basic kit + the extras. I'm a dummy.
FC, CC, TA, pH, CYA, and a CH -- I'll get those tomorrow and consider it my baseline for now after toying with it for the week.
If I knew what a OCLT was offhand, I'd comment. My brain is fried at this point -- I'll look it up later tonight perhaps.
In other great news, I attempted to remove the two-sided male connector attached to the return on the shallow end of the pool and stripped it pretty clean. D*** that thing is on tight. Hope I can get it off still and find a new one...
FC, CC, TA, pH, CYA, and a CH -- I'll get those tomorrow and consider it my baseline for now after toying with it for the week.
If I knew what a OCLT was offhand, I'd comment. My brain is fried at this point -- I'll look it up later tonight perhaps.
In other great news, I attempted to remove the two-sided male connector attached to the return on the shallow end of the pool and stripped it pretty clean. D*** that thing is on tight. Hope I can get it off still and find a new one...
OCLT seems viable.
SLAM seems intense. I mean, the water seems crystal clear and *looks* to be in good shape... SLAM seems to be for a blatantly algae-filled pool?
Maybe I'm testing incorrectly to get these results? I'll read the directions again once I get another round of testing underway.
Can I be done moving things and go swimming yet?!?!
SLAM seems intense. I mean, the water seems crystal clear and *looks* to be in good shape... SLAM seems to be for a blatantly algae-filled pool?
Maybe I'm testing incorrectly to get these results? I'll read the directions again once I get another round of testing underway.
Can I be done moving things and go swimming yet?!?!
What?? You haven't gone swimming yet??
Just 'cause it's not green don't mean it's clean! A family of birds had been using my pool as their toilet so I did an OCLT and failed, even though the pool was clear. After a couple of days of SLAMing I passed the OCLT two night in a row & could now see what a "glass clear" pool was! While I had thought the pool was clear before, boy was I mistaken.
Dom
Just 'cause it's not green don't mean it's clean! A family of birds had been using my pool as their toilet so I did an OCLT and failed, even though the pool was clear. After a couple of days of SLAMing I passed the OCLT two night in a row & could now see what a "glass clear" pool was! While I had thought the pool was clear before, boy was I mistaken.
Dom
I haven't! We've been so busy driving back and forth with carloads of stuff! We should be all moved in after Sunday so, celebratory laps and beverages abound tomorrow night.
Tonight's Results:
FC= 8.5
CC= 0
TA= 8 (9th drop made it bright pink.. Not sure how 'red' it should get)
pH= 7.2+
CYA= 90
CH= 225
Guidance for tomorrow afternoon?
Tonight's Results:
FC= 8.5
CC= 0
TA= 8 (9th drop made it bright pink.. Not sure how 'red' it should get)
pH= 7.2+
CYA= 90
CH= 225
Guidance for tomorrow afternoon?
I must have miss read! GOOD Catch! Do nothing! Your numbers look good for now.
Kim
Kim
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So, okay... Holding steady right now.
What would ideal numbers be for my situation? I've seen the suggestions in the FAQ, but I see a lot of commentary regarding concern for CYA,pool heater, etc. I think if I wrap my head around some ideal #s for these above tested items, I *should* be able to rock PoolMath and keep in check.
I'd hate to keep everyone around this thread watching the noob check his shade of yellow everyday... You guys have been so helpful!
What would ideal numbers be for my situation? I've seen the suggestions in the FAQ, but I see a lot of commentary regarding concern for CYA,pool heater, etc. I think if I wrap my head around some ideal #s for these above tested items, I *should* be able to rock PoolMath and keep in check.
I'd hate to keep everyone around this thread watching the noob check his shade of yellow everyday... You guys have been so helpful!
Keep PH between 7.2 and 7.8
TA at 80 or 90 is good
CH is fine and not important in a vinyl pool
CYA is high, need to drain about half your pool to get it down to 40-50 or maintain higher chlorine levels
Chlorine is set based on the CYA level and the Chlorine CYA Chart. Keep it at target level, and never let it drop below minimum or your pool will be unsanitary and algae will grow.
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
TA at 80 or 90 is good
CH is fine and not important in a vinyl pool
CYA is high, need to drain about half your pool to get it down to 40-50 or maintain higher chlorine levels
Chlorine is set based on the CYA level and the Chlorine CYA Chart. Keep it at target level, and never let it drop below minimum or your pool will be unsanitary and algae will grow.
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
In post #32 and #49 you mention issues removing the eyelet connector. Look or feel inside the connector for two notches. If there are two notches there is a tool to remove the connector.
You should be able to find this at a good local pool store. This will provide some additional leverage but still be cautious. If the the connector is too tight you may run the risk of breaking the seat removal tool. Good luck.
You should be able to find this at a good local pool store. This will provide some additional leverage but still be cautious. If the the connector is too tight you may run the risk of breaking the seat removal tool. Good luck.
This could be super helpful! I don't remember any notches, but ill triple check.
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After reading up on CYA a bit, I wonder if the previous owners intentionally shot the CYA so high since the pool literally sits in the sun 90+% of the day. The shade on it is minimal.
You got a great test kit. Did you happen to get the Speedstir also? If not, think about snapping one up. You will absolutely love it. Lots of us have it and I bet no one wishes that they wouldn't have bought it. Enjoy your new house and pool!