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I know you dont have a spa, but does the ET? If the ET thinks (dip switches) you have a spa and it goes into freeze mode, it rotates the valves every so often (Pool/Spa) to circulate the spa plumbing and it locks out the pool cleaner. Or you dont have freeze enabled for the cleaner pump.

Glad to help. (y)

I know this thread is a little old... Those units used to come from the factory with a "patch" cable (3 to 4 feet) attached inside the outdoor control box. If yours is still there you can remove your panel from inside the house, bring it to the outdoor controller and plug in your inside unit...

Keep in mind that everything that the (pool) water hits is subject to the effects of your chemical dosing, good or bad. This is why some parts fail quickly and, coincidentally not covered under warranty.

Sorry, i too am no help as i don't see many Hayward products.

Show a better pic of the igniters' grey area. May be able to tell if it has a crack.

If your automation is connected/configured properly (as designed), you shouldn't need to make any adjustments at the heater.

A NO COMM warrants an inspection of the transmitter and more importantly, the link between the transmitter and the E/T outdoor unit. The wire that is furnished with the transmitter is a solid core 2 pair. After time, or if the core was nicked while stripping for connection, it will be...

Babysit the heater and see if it is cycling. It may not begin to cycle right away but rather once the water temp reaches a certain temp range. Make note of the temp at which it starts. if it starts at the mid to high 80's, then its probably the therm by-pass. Yes, I noted that you bought one...

So if you have the heater running without the cover and you replace the cover, the flame dies? Sounds like an oxygen deprovision issue. These heaters need to have the correct mixture of gas AND air, especially in the case of forced air appliances. They are alot more temperamental than...

Does it bang pop or groan just before it shuts down? Also, confirm that it is not plumbed backwards.

You should check the temp sensor of the heater. You will know immediately if it has failed if the sensor is cracked. The Compool temp sensor and the heaters sensor are not one in the same. And they don't communicate with one another either. Set, or calibrate your automation temp with a known...

I would say stay with the brand you have, Raypak. If you decide to get a larger size (BTU) you will have to assess the gas line (size) to make sure it can handle the extra gas demand or volume requirement of the new heater.

A few things... Yes, those are the flame rails or burners. They have become disconnected from the jets and the heater should not run like that. Assuming that the heat exchanger is not leaking, the only moisture that you would get underneath the burners is condensate. Not only does the water...

Yep, You want a TS5L sensor (linear), not the one that has all numbers as the part number (520272). Note: When putting the system into "Service" mode and hitting the heater button, you are turning the heater on with no automation thermostatic control, only the thermostat limit entered at the...

Hold on guys, A flame sensing problem would only occur the first 3-10 seconds AFTER the heater fires, it would not keep the heater from initially firing. Pipe size? Maybe, but, i don't think it would allow the heater to fire for, say and hour, then decide the size was too small and not fire...

Sounds like the flame sensor is not proving. if you're comfortable with working on the heater, go ahead and clean the burner tubes/rails, and the gas orifices as well.

Is your shed properly ventilated? Especially with a power vent, there needs to be plenty of air getting INTO the shed from the outside.

I suppose i should have mentioned that the manual i referenced is the Sta-Rite version of the same heater, the Mastertemp. Wiring, components, and schematic would be the same.

I would say board or Fenwal. Both high dollar components (of course). Both have a part in giving the valve voltage. The control board Tells the Fenwal to give voltage, and the Fenwal does the heavy lifting via a relay. You need to find out if the control board is brain dead, or if the Fenwal...

I was referring to the actual windings of the motor and not the wires that come from the motor. Are you saying that the motor shuts off altogether after the pre-purge?

I have had blower motors that are dying, still put out air, and run "beautifully". They just dont move enough air to either prove the air switch, or achieve the right air/ fuel mix to ignite the burner. See if you can see the windings of the blower motor through the motor vents. You are looking...

First off, whomever you buy the headers from should ask you for the serial number so as to get the right part, if they dont, I would question that person, and maybe move on. The The flange is what you thread the plastic fitting into. Then the flange bolts to the header with the rubber gasket...

With normal wear and tear, exposure, and maintenance, you can expect to see at least 10 years from a heater.

Probably not he board but the touch pad. Turn it off again, then unplug the ribbon cable from the side of the board and run it. If it stays off, probably a bad membrane (touch pad). A lot cheaper!

Take the door off the heater and snap some pics of it to get an idea how its aging. And post the serial number, we can tell you how old the heater is.

That's the stuff!

No, it is not Asbestos. Here is a good explanation of what it is... Refractory

You can have a burner that "has been cleaned" but if the burner right next to the flame sensor didn't get cleaned thoroughly enough, you could have a lingering dirty/clogged burner problem that would explain the fault. With some heaters, the burner right below the sensor can be difficult to get...

Think about this... You have what looks like about 2 feet of 3/4" gas line from the heater to the shutoff valve. When you try to light the heater, the pilot valve opens and i.e. begins to purge out the air in that line through the pilot assembly. Did i mention that the orifice in the pilot...