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Pools are funny! I had years where my PH was over 75-80 and had constant PH Rise. This year, it was at 100-110 with no rise. However, I reduced the circulator rotating heads (used 3 instead of 4) so maybe this made the difference. Gunite pools I would suggest low PH and borates if you have...

I think for the most part, phosphate removers are like Poly 60 at closing a pool for the season. It is basically extra insurance across the board. Yes, you can manage without PR and get by, and you can manage without Poly 60 and get by. It is a matter of preference. Simplicity is probably best...

The eyeballs (jets) should be facing and shooting water in the pool. Yes, your in-floor system is restricting flow. Shut off the system (with whichever valves control them) and you should be able to feel the difference in pressure. A friend of mine had 2 pop-up heads (the canister was empty)...

Try brushing your pool, bring up to SLAM level, allow your levels to naturally come down, but do one thing different. DO NOT SHUT OFF YOUR PUMP! Then, go a few days to see if you have recurring symptoms. If you do not, then I will bet you that what you are seeing is something settling in your...

Seadweller: How often do you brush 100% of the pool? If you brush at least twice week, every 3-4 days apart, then this is probably not the issue. A perfect chemical balance pool without brushing is not "perfect".

Seadweller: Thank you for sharing your test results. Any and all test results are used as a guide to determine how to correct/modify/improve a current or potential problem. We do not discuss chemical balance as there are no set, fast hardened rules. Pools can operate with a vast range of...

It is probably not from Iron. If you had metals in the water, there would be traces on the liner and the steps as well. If this is happening in the screws, as I mentioned earlier, I am leaning towards galvanic corrosion. They make anodes for ladders as well and you may want to try them out...

glinda: The key is to try to control the rust by stopping any further rust. If you want, remove one screw, clean, put back another screw and keep going around the whole pool. This will be quite an effort, but can be done. As mentioned many times, if it were metals in your water, the staining...

Test for metals, but the staining would be evident in the pool as well, not only near the screws.

I see you have the Fusion returns (excellent). Even the circulators work great. This is exactly how the rusting occurred on and there was some dripping on the head. Read my thread and you will see a picture of the screw. The Zinc Anode at the pump solved the problem (you may want to try this)...

Please read through the post below. The screws, only at the light niche caused bleeding on the heads and slightly on some of the threads. The liner had some stains, but I was diligent about removing it quickly with vitamin c tabs. The white round housing (where the screws go) inside was all...

Please upload pictures of the screws. Are they are the light niche, skimmers, or return jets? Could be a classic case of Galvanic Corrosion.

Neither, just a weird stain that I removed and has not come back. I will see a black rusty type of stain once in a blue moon on white steps and steps on ladder, but easily removed. They are more like dots that a pencil would produce, that small and easily removed with Magic Eraser.

The 7 ppm CYA increase is to minor for you to really see that on the test. Assume it is there and test once a month. If testing is done twice during each week you could possibly run out of the solution. Test once every two weeks if there are enough 3" tablets that are dissolving. In addition...

Dirk: If I am interpreting your reply, quite the opposite. My PH stabilized with higher CYA (of course I only increased it because of the conversion) and high TA. With lower CYA, no SWG and high TA, my PH was on the run. Higher CYA, with the SWG, high TA (at least for me), my PH became stable...

Dirk: Where is your CYA now, compared to where the CYA was prior to the SWG being turned on? I am assuming that you either dosed your pool manually or used 3 " tablets. Below is the reason why I am asking this. Pre-SWG in late August of 2017, I dosed my pool manually. CYA was always between...

I am leaning towards one or the other: 1) A leaf landed in that corner and stayed there for a few days possibly causing this stain (Organic). A leaf on the top step without water quickly causes a stain, in which only a magic eraser will remove. 2) When I was having issues with the solar...

This morning I removed the ladder to clean out, inspect the for algae and rinse the cups in the concrete. While inspecting, I saw a small rust stain (or just a dark red-brown stain) about 1/8" by 1" on the middle step. After removing the top and middle step, I inspected the screws (very slight...

I usually smell the CC on bathers once they come out of the pool, use the towels to dry up and it lingers all day. Luckily, no one has invited any of us to a swimming pool party, as unless the water is taken care of with a proper test kit and the homeowner is diligent, 9 out of 10 times, the...

Update for 2018 on the Zinc Anode. The anode was inspected about a month ago, and it appears smaller than the previous years, but still in tact. There is no sign of any corrosion on the screws, especially at the light niche. I can honestly state that after almost 3 years, no problems. The rust...

I have a difficult time with the CYA. If I believe the dot disappeared at 60, my CYA is 70. If 70, then 80. I always gauge 10 ppm higher and work off the CYA/FC relationship. Having a little more chlorine in your pool will not really do any harm. Shocking a pool weekly or twice per week is...

Now, that the pool is closed, I wanted to update the thread. Because I stick my head in the water with goggles as I am clearing the lines, if any corrosion is present, this would be apparent. Now, almost two years later, I can say that the Sacrificial Zinc Anode that is buried in the moist...

Haphazardly throwing chemicals in a pool is not a wise idea. My friend's solution to his pool (good friend in which I helped him close his pool) each week throws baking soda in (1.5 lbs.) and uses 3" tablets in a floating chlorinator. He has no idea what CYA is and once I tested his water...

Donaldson: When I switched over from Frog System (6 months) to liquid chlorine (12.5%) for 3 years, and then converted to a SWG system, my salt level was at 1,200 ppm. The funny thing is in the beginning of 2017, I jumped in the water on a hot day and the water felt softer (little did I know...

Powerful!

My phosphates (when the pool store used to test) were always low. I have even flirted with lower levels than 7.5% of CYA (around 5%) for a chlorine pool, and have never had any issues with passing the OCLT, algae problems or clear water. My pool has great circulation. This is all based on a 12...

Polaris makes a unit that attaches directly to a return line without a separate pump. There are fittings based on pressure. Depending on the level of cleaning you need, this may work. You could purchase your own pump, but would have to have a mechanism to catch the debris and then place water...

Dom hit this right on the nose. A SLAM is in order. In addition, reducing chlorine consumption may not be in your best interest. My pool, roughly the size of yours with good circulation (6 returns + 2 Steps) consumed very little chlorine during the 5 months. Chemicals were about $245 for the...

Take some water out of the pool and place in a clear clean glass. What does the water look like? Water in a clean glass will not look as green when a pool has algae. Unless you have metal stains in the pool, it is probably algae, but hard to tell. Where are the stains and what do they look...

Onslow: A couple of reasons for high chlorine consumption. This is outside the 12.5% chlorine having degraded over time. When I purchased my first large set at a discount, I realized after months of wondering why I was using so much, that the chlorine degraded from 12.5% to about 7%. Please...