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J, it's been a while since I first posted here, but I see the threads has taken a few turns. Regardless of the products uses to clear-up water or remove metal stains, remember that even if it works (temporarily) the metal is still in the water. There are only two ways to achieve long lasting...

Unless you have a source for non-iron water (fresh fill), you will always have to filter or rely on a sequestrant. It's a major issue for any owner on wells or local water with high iron content. Just can't get away from the iron. :(

You'll add water as needed from evaporation. Maintaining the proper water chemistry is always most important to keep it clear and sanitized. The links below are great resources. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/how-do-i-use-chlorine-in-my-spa-or-pool.9670/...

Honestly, it's hard for us to know how well that Iron Curtain product is working for you since enough got in the water earlier. Would a slower fill rate help? I kind of doubt it. But with nothing else to lose, I would go through polyfill filter set-up as noted above. Even then, enough iron...

How did you test for iron at 1.7ppm? That would be my first concern. Iron can't hide from chlorine, and the more of it in the water the quicker or more drastic the changes, so I suspect the accumulated iron level in the tub is higher than expected. Even though you seem to have a house filter...

The longer the brown water remains the more chance of staining, so watch that. Also, before you drain, get yourself some Ahh-Some and do a purge of the tub. Even new tubs are lined with products that gunk-up the water. An Ahh-Some purge is a great thing.

Looks like iron to me. Since you don't want to drain, I would say use a small pump to circulate the tub water through a container full of polyfill. See if that helps capture the iron. Balance your tub water as noted on the sticky thread at the top of the Spa and Hot Tubs sub-forum.

My statement about (perhaps) changing the water every couple years was solely related to the concept of controlling exceedingly high CH levels. Some in the SW with really hard water simply can't avoid it depending on the CH content of their fill water and refills due to evaporation. For those...

Been a while since I visited this thread. I see it's gotten a bit exciting - and moved. :poke: :rant::geek: I went through all the work to type this so I wanted to post it anyways. No worries though. As long as we can pass info back & forth without pitchforks we'll be fine. ? So my final...

JR, algaecides have their place here at TFP. They are commonly used as a preventive treatment either at winter closing or specific processes like Ascorbic Acid treatments when the FC level must be low. When they are used, we recommend a Polyquat 60 product. Experience has shown that we tend to...

Every situation is different. In many cases, we "try" to leave new posts/threads untouched until someone with experience in that specific area can reply. That way it still shows as an unanswered (new) thread in the que. But in some cases, a leak for example, there may not be much time to...

ZionLG, the fact that you have a TF-100 and are able to confirm relatively consistent results is promising. As you pointed-out, not all facilities offer that type of testing accuracy and/or reliability, which is why we encourage pool owners to obtain a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C of their own...