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I say go for the 10% liquid chlorine that you can get at Walmart, Home Depot, or Lowes. Just make sure the date on the box isn't over 4 months old. It's coded as 21XXX where XXX is the day of the year (1-365) produced in 2021. Bleach is ok, but they seem to be following Clorox's lead by...

I agree with Maddie above. The best thing you did was order the TF-100 before getting too far in the hole. If you follow the TFPC protocols, you'll find that you won't be buying anything other than liquid chlorine and muriatic acid. No "No More Problems" or "Pool Perfect" potions that cost a...

The sad part is if the OP's water isn't even cloudy and looks good, the SLAM could take very little time to complete. Now he's stuck with almost 4k worth of SWGs and he can't even confirm if they are in fact in good working order. I suspect they are fine when you consider how much FC he lost...

Check your CYA level with your TF-100 test kit. It should be in the 30-50ppm range. If it's there, stick to liquid chlorine exclusively. Tablets raise the CYA every time you use them and it stays in the water and builds and builds. They are not a great way to chlorinate over the long haul...

Draining half your water and refilling will drain half your CYA. With that being said, if your CYA is 65 (we round that up to 70), you only need to drain a smaller portion. Maybe 20%, especially if you live in a hot climate. I know plenty of people that live in Texas on this forum run their...

That is an OTO chorine test which is not very accurate. It basically tells you if you have any chlorine in the pool or not. It also only gives you a TC (total chlorine) reading which is pretty useless. You need a FC reading which is only obtained with a FAS-DPD chlorine test, where you add a...

Recheck your CYA. If it's still 30, try adding some granular CYA powder in a sock to get it up to 50. That will slow down the FC burn off some.

Each gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will raise your FC by 2ppm in your 50k pool. I agree with the others. I would add 4 or 5 gallons to get your FC up to the 8 to 10ppm range and then run your OCLT. Make sure the SWG is off and remove any pucks from your chlorinator. This will give you a...

I agree with Bperry, using pucks won't do anything for you except continue to raise your CYA. Liquid chlorine would work fine. There's no reason why you should wait if you want to get a SWG except maybe a chance that the prices will come down a little in the near future, but I wouldn't bet on it.

Yeah, I'm just not too far from you here in San Jose. Currently 99 degrees here. My water with just a solar cover is around 90 so at least I get some relief. No air conditioner here. The pool IS my air conditioner. LOL! That diverter valve has got to be the issue. If it's a Jandy valve...

Are there a lot of bubbles when it is trying to prime? How high does the basket fill? There must be some type of suction leak. It doesn't appear that you have any valves on the suction side. The suction pipe appears to go right into the ground. Check the union at the inlet of the pump and...

A few pics of your equipment pad could help us help you. Without that, I'd start by taking the filter apart and cleaning it. It is very easy. Do you have a DE or a cartridge filter? Your signature says DE filter, but in your post, you say you have a 325sf cartridge filter. If it's a DE...

You can swim with FC all the way up to SLAM level as long as you can see the bottom. Also make sure your pH is somewhere in the 7's. Have fun!!! Keep a close eye on that FC, because I found that even once the FC starts holding, it seems that it takes a couple of weeks before the FC burn off...

Nice pool. Have you ruled out organic stains? To test if they are organic stains, you can place a chlorine tablet on the stain for a few minutes and see if it helps lift it some. That is the only thing I use tablets for. :) I usually keep no more than 2 around for just this purpose...

How is the staining? Has it cleared up any better in the last day or so? Some people decide to go with just the sequestrant by itself because of the FC demands that the AA causes. You will probably want to use half a quart monthly of the sequestrant for maintenance purposes. That will keep...

No, my cartridge filter never gets very dirty. I barely even look at the pressure gauge. I just usually clean it twice a year, once in early March and once at the end of the pool season in October. My pump basically runs 24/7 at 1100rpm and I never have an issue with flow. Once in a while...

Or for some of us that are eyeball challenged ...

I'll let others chime in on the heater question since I have no experience with one, but the SWG will just stop producing chlorine because the flow switch won't close fully. That is usually why we recommend finding your minimum rpms to close the flow switch with a clean filter and then add 200...

You can add the stabilizer right away if you want. It won't go anywhere, and you'll know that its been mixed well in your water when the FC starts holding. Use the sock method where you fill a knee high woman's sock, or even a men's athletic sock, with your granular stabilizer and hang it...

For a flow meter, you might try this one. I have this one on my equipment and it seems to work well. It's basically a check valve with the meter in it. The guts are fully replaceable if and when it wears out or if you just want to go with just a regular check valve in the future...

SWG will not produce chlorine fast enough for what you need. You need instant FC right away. A SWG would take yours hours if not almost all day to generate that amount, and before you can even blink, it will be neutralized by the AA, so liquid chlorine is the way to go.

If the pool was just refilled like you say, they probably didn't add any stabilizer by itself. Maybe they just threw in a few tablets for chlorine. Also, your TA seems curious. So, you did the test and you only added 1 drop of R009 to turn it barbie pink? If that is the case you need to get...

Your story is very typical of how most people find their way to this site. A couple of expensive trips to the pool store that doesn't solve their issues lead them to questioning if there's a better and cheaper solution. Pool stores are in the business of selling chemicals and oftentimes, they...

That might work ok. You just add your pool pole to it and it works without a hose. What do you hate about manual vacuuming? Is it filling the hose with water? Before I got a robot, I would manually vacuum. I'd snap the vacuum head onto my pool pole near the skimmer area on the deck. I'd...

Once you get used to doing the tests, it won't take very long at all. You will be testing pH and FC the most. The others you can test much less often. Once you get your CYA to where you want it, you won't be adding anything to the pool to increase it, so you can test that once a month and be...

I wouldn't touch that. It's probably very, very expensive anyway. You're better off with a good drop test kit like the ones we linked. Those electronic gizmos often have to be calibrated so they are more trouble than they are worth. You want to be doing your own tests anyway. Don't even...

You keep the SLAM going until the pool clears up. It will eventually. Just remember to brush the walls and floor once a day during this process and also check areas where algae might be hiding like the skimmer throat, under ladders, and even around or behind a poo light. The minimum FC for...

The amount of liquid chlorine you'll need will depend on how much algae your pool has. I would start with 15 gallons of 10% to be safe. It takes you 4 full gallons to go from FC 0 to FC 10, so each gallon will give you 2.5 ppm increase. Once you are done with the SLAM (after passing the 3...

To get FC up to 10ppm in your pool, you'll need 4 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine. If there is a lot of ammonia, you may have to do this a few times. Ammonia eats chlorine fast as well. Eventually the chlorine will overwhelm the ammonia and kill it off. That happens when the FC starts...

You may have ammonia in the water. To find out for sure, don't add any CYA yet. Add enough liquid chlorine to raise FC to 10ppm and test in 15 to 20 minutes. If it's 3 or less, repeat the process, until the FC starts to hold (above 7). This tells you that yes, their is ammonia and when it...